• Human Ecology Research
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.13-21
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• 2021

In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.159-174
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• 2020

We selected 100% cotton fabric, 100% Hanji yarn fabric and two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and fused them with three kinds of interlinings in order to examine changes to the physical properties and the post-adhesion physical properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Changes in KES values were examined after fusing. First, EM, B, 2HB, MMD values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabric, and LT, RT, G, 2HG, LC, WC values of cotton fabric were higher than Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Tensile recovery was lowered, bending stiffness was increased, and shear stiffness was lowered when Hanji yarn was mixed. Second, the KES value of LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, LC, WC increased after fusing, while the EM, MMD values decreased. SMD was shown to decrease or increase depending on the type of fabric. The adhesive effect on bending stiffness and shear stiffness due to the mixing of Hanji shows a different tendency in the comparison of α_B and α_G.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.543-562
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• 2024

This study used persimmon juice, shuliang, and mud to develop the color of hanji fabrics. Persimmon juice and shuliang were used to perform single and mixing dyeing with heat treatment using the pad-dry-cure (PDC) method. Next, mud dyeing was performed, and the hanji fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and shuliang were developed into Yellow Red (YR) Munsell colors with very low values and chroma. Through scanning electron microscopy, the persimmon juice and shuliang were observed to be evenly treated on the hanji fabrics using the PDC method. Furthermore, the presence of iron ions in the dyed fabrics was confirmed using inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry analysis. The stiffness of the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was the greatest, while it gradually decreased for the fabrics treated with mixing and mud dyeing. With mixing dyeing, the colorfastness to washing improved to grade 4, whereas with mud dyeing, the colorfastness to alkaline sweat greatly improved to grade 4~4-5. Based on these findings, this study confirmed that it is possible to develop hanji fabrics with differentiated textures and colors while ensuring practical colorfastness through mixing and mud dyeing.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.151-158
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• 2013

This study presents basic knitted fabric data on the use of ply yarn with rayon yarn and eco-friendly/high-valued Hanji yarn. Physical properties (gauge, thickness, burst strength, air permeability, stiffness, Qmax, dimensional stability and surface image) of Hanji 100%, rayon 100% and Hanji/rayon 50:50 knitted fabrics are investigated. The results are as follows. Course direction of gauge decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. In addition wale direction of gauge decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 50/50. Thickness and air permeability decrease in the following order: Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > rayon 100%. Burst strength decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50. Stiffness and Qmax decrease in the following order: rayon 100% > Hanji/rayon 50/50 > Hanji 100%. Laundry for dimensional stability is knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50 than rayon 100% and Hanji 100% improved using neutral detergent and stable at $20^{\circ}C$. From surface image observation, the cracks of Hanji 100% and fibrils of rayon 100% decrease when using knitted fabric with Hanji/rayon 50/50.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 다양한 천연염색 재료로 염색한 한지직물을 활용하여 모자 두 개와 노트북 가방을 문화상품으로 개발·제작하였다. 그를 위하여 첫째, 우수한 내구성과 기능성을 가진 우리나라의 전통 한지로 만들어진 한지직물을 문화상품 개발을 위한 소재로 선택하고, 둘째, 그것을 천연염색 재료인 쪽으로 푸른 색, 떫은 감물로 갈색, 홍화에 의하여 붉은 색, 황벽으로 노란 색 그리고 자근으로 자주색으로 염색하였다. 셋째, 문화상품으로 개발하고자 하는 모자와 노트북 가방을 디자인하였다. 넷째, 디자인한 모자와 노트북 가방의 패턴을 제작하고, 그것에 따라 다양한 색으로 천연염색한 한지직물을 재단·봉제하여 완성한 두 개의 모자와 노트북 가방을 제시하였다.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

우리나라는 오천 년 역사를 이어오는 동안 우수한 문화자산을 축적해 왔으면서도 문화를 상품화하는 일을 소홀히 하였다. 그 결과 세계인이 인정하는 기술이 있으면서도 세계에 내놓을 만한 훌륭한 문화상품이 없다. 따라서 전통문화 속의 독특한 소재를 활용하여 현대적인 감각으로 재 디자인하여 상품화하는 것이 필요하다. 천연염색에 의한 직물은 채도가 낮으므로 특별한 배색조화를 하지 않아도 잘 어울리며, 자연스럽고 편안한 느낌을 준다. 따라서 천연염색으로 얻어진 직물들은 문화상품 개발을 위하여 매우 적절한 소재라고 생각된다. 또한 한지는 질기고 중후하며 우아한 느낌을 지니고 있어서 그 자체로 예술의 한 분야를 구축할 수 있는 우수한 소재라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 세계적으로 뛰어난 한지를 소재로 한 한지직물을 활용하여, 쪽, 홍화, 황벽, 그리고 자근으로 천연 염색하였다. 그 염색 직물을 활용하여 두 대의 양산과 카드 지갑의 문화상품을 만들어 제시하였다.