• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.189-203
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• 2014

In this study, Creative motifs using face composition of Jogakbo and Knot Symbol were developed, and applied to traditional Baeja of Joseon Dynasty to develop design contents of traditional clothes. As for study method, 7 motifs of new formative image that integrates traditional beauty and contemporary sense were developed by applying Knot Symbols and face compositions of Jogakbo with the use of Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 vector graphic software. The motifs were designed in contemporary image in face compositions like rectangle pattern, triangle pattern, dual rectangle pattern, vertical and horizontal pattern, pinwheel pattern, gojunmun pattern and free pattern by involving various changes like repetition, rotation, reduction, expansion and decomposition and using the colors used in the Jogakbo. It is desired that through this study, traditional Baeja may develop to bear traditional and contemporary image so that our traditional clothes design may become global. Also it is anticipated that this study will contribute to development of culture products of Hanbok like Jeogori, pants and skirt that require change of design in the global era while maintaining traditional beauty to appeal to the emotions of world citizens.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.137-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the perception of New-Hanbok Skirts that female consumers have and to analyze the design preference based on the analysis of designs of skirt products currently in distribution. Based on the analysis of the New-Hanbok brand website, the research was conducted through a survey of 355 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 24 questions which were divided into pattern, color, material, and recognition type questions. The research results are as follows. First, most adult women answered that a New-Hanbok skirt is appropriate to wear at a holiday, anniversary, or outer dress for the spring and autumn seasons, and the design is the most important thing when considering buying. However, the ratios of wearing experience and possession were very low. Second, the preferred design aspects of a New-Hanbok skirt were the Jarak-skirt or Deot-skirt, calf-length, 5cm width of the waistband, 3cm uniform crease, a normal length waistband, bright neutral colors, and a waistband in different colors. For the double skirt, the design that shows 4cm of lining fabric and the different colors of upper fabric was the most preferred. The most preferred material was plain cotton. On the other hand, small floral patterns were preferred for patterned materials, and opaque upper fabric was most preferred for the double skirt. Through this study, it was confirmed that the Hanbok is seen as a positive aspect for modern consumers.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.113-126
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the current use of mannequins that are designed to display Hanbok and put forward suggestions for improvement. In order to carry out the study, an analysis on the mannequins that are currently in the market was conducted along with a survey with professionals who are in charge of the display. The significance of the study is that it has gathered the opinions of professionals who are currently participating in the displays of Hanbok to lay the foundation for improvements. As Hanbok is a flat-pattern costume unlike the Western ones, the most prominent way to display is to lay them on the floor or hang them on the wall. Nevertheless, the mannequin displays are needed to show the beauty of Hanbok as the silhouette can only be completed when it is put on a body. A new type of mannequins that can portray the distinctive features of Korean beauty more effectively need to be developed. Although the museum and enterprise slightly differ in their preferences and requirements for the mannequins, both agree on the following criteria; the shape should be adjusted: the protruding breasts of the mannequin are not suitable for Hanbok, the body should be disassembled: all parts of the body should be separable and it should be flexible at the joints so that it can produce various poses, the face should represent the "koreaness" and the material should be soft. Based on these findings, we put forth the suggestion that a more suitable mannequin should be developed to portray the beauty of Hanbok.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 철릭 원피스에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 철릭 원피스 디자인의 신한복 철릭 원피스 원형을 개발하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 신한복 철릭 원피스 생산의 기초가되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 하였다. 시판 철릭 원피스 패턴 비교에서 우수한 것으로 선정된 D패턴을 변형하여 실험의 패턴을 제작하였다. 패턴에 대한 외관평가 분석에는 SPSS 26.0 프로그램을 활용하였다. 외관 및 의복압에 대한 1차 평가 결과, 어깨, 소매길이, 치마길이, 소매통의 수정이 요구되어 소매길이는 8.0cm를 줄이고 소매통은 총 1.0cm를 줄여 주었다. 치마길이도 5.0cm를 줄이고 어깨끝점을 양쪽에서 0.5cm 안으로 들여 어깨폭을 줄여 주었다. 2차 평가결과, 허리부위, 소매통, 치마 주름에 대한 수정이 요구되어 허리 2.0cm, 소매통 1.0cm를 줄여 주고 앞중심과 옆선 부위 주름을 제거하여 최종 패턴은 높은 평가를 받았다. 1차, 2차, 3차 간에는 유의미한 차이가 있었다. 향후 연구에서는 소재와 연령에 따른 철릭 원피스 원형 연구와 실제 제작된 의복의 착의실험을 통한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 사료된다.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.81-92
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• 2015

Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.61-72
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• 1999

For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.127-136
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• 1999

This study purport to establish the size was flexibly receptive to consumers. Sample size was 6555 women in their 20's and 29 variables from the diret anthropometric data were applied to analyze. The preliminary survey was taken from Febraury 10. 1997 to May 23 1997 and the measurement was done from April 14, 1997 to June 10. 1997. Follwing the KS regulations Hanbok were given 3cm intervals each for the bust and hip girth and cm for th height. Size system was presented for the usage of developing the pattern of hanbok by analyzing the result of the regression coefficient and referring to the distribution chart of the back length and the neck to ulnar styloid length. When establishing the standard size for the ready-made Hanbok like Western style clothes it's convenient for both consumer and producer to present both bust girth and height. To enhance the fitting of Chogori we used the flatness ratio of bust as the reference for grouping styles of body. in the case of Chima-\ulcorner해갸 4 brackets are developed. First step was bust girth 78cm height 15cm second was bust girth 5852cm5 height 160cm third was bust girth 82cm height 165cm fourth was bust girth 88cm height 16cm.