• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.88-99
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• 2012

Recently the hair style of Michelle Obama, the world's most recognized First Lady of the United States has been loved by the public with her optimistic confidence and as a fashion leader. For Michelle Obama's hair styles by length, a medium-short cut style was expressed in various ways to show her strong will by exposing the forehead, an elegant image by asymmetry hair, or a progressive image by a short volume hair cut. A medium cut style expressed an elegant and intelligent image in shoulder-length and a trendy image using a side parting. A updo hair style produced young, womanly, and casual images using twisting, binding, typing up, and rolling technique according to situations. For hair styles associated with her roles, when participating as a diplomatic delegate, she expressed the President's helpful partner by a soft and womanly image using bobbed hair and half updo technique. For the participation in state occasions, her hair styles were examined in three situations. First of all, she mainly had a neat style, exposing her forehead in official schedules as a political partner to create an intelligent and high-class image. Second, she expressed a strong will with a medium-short style during an election campaign. Finally, she showed an elegant and refined hair style in consideration of T.P.O. during social activity. Michelle Obama overcame her hair's handicap, grasped her images associated with hair length, and expressed hair strategically according to her roles as the first African-American First Lady of the United States.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.25-34
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• 1998

This study has it's purpose in examining the materialized background. characteristic of African traditional costume and the A fro fashion of the year 1960. and it's influence on the contemporary fashion. Then the findings are applied to suggest a new way of image creation. 1960' s was the year in which people tried to free oneself from the ruling culture of the social standards. war. and the development of science. By such movement. people started to get interested in the environment and ecology. This then lead to the interest of the rights of the minority. With the youngs as the central figure A fro hair style and dashiki appeared as the street fashion. The characteristics of African costume applied to A fro fashion in 1990' s is as below. First. the North African style. Djellaba. and wrap style in the most common silhouette. Second. heavy materials such as stone. copper. silver. and gold are used. Necklace can be classified according to it's simple but. modern style. delicate but grand style. Bracelets are however. broad in width and many rings are worn widely. Third. Multi colored stripe and prints inspired by tattoo and deformation using red brown. dark beige. and orange are printed on textiles such as see through. Fourth. image of tattoo and deformation are applied to make-up. A fro hair and corn beads are also African taste. Fifth. African taste in recent fashion showed off the black beauty by appointing black models at the collection. In analyzing the study done above. characteristic images of African costume. accessaries and body painting was applied in presenting 3 creative designs. The first design named "Geometric I", took it's motif from the geometric pattern of the body painting with the afro hair. "Geometric II", the second design, showed it's application of geometric pattern of mutilation and the silhouette of the costume by using the see through. The third design called the "Geometric III" showed that the aesthetic and decorative side of clothing can be satisfied by applying various form and color of accessaries as the motif. A fro fashion is chosen as one of the folklore mood and it's beauty is conveyed on till today.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.189-200
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• 2009

In the Edo period speaking of hair culture, common women wore decorative pigtail ribbons on the right, and twisted from side to side their tressed hair in such a manner as ungeunmeori and traemeori. Instead of gachae, common women used gogae made of their own hair, ungeunmeori on forehead, or jjokjinmeori at the back of head. During the Edo period, people women naturally exposed their necklines as a way of exposing their faces in the aesthetically ceremonial act of wearing make-up. As for lipsticks, they rouged extracts from red petals of safflowers mainly on their lips, and sometimes on their cheeks by blending this with white powder. Samurai families disliked women who wore thick lip makeup. In the latter period, women painted their necklines or foreheads black, applied a small amount of rouge on their cheeks thinly or thickly, and colored a reddish color into their fingernails by using petals and leaves of balsam flowers. Despite the chronological and spatial proximity of the King Jeongjo period and the Edo period, it was found that there were no similarities between two countries' cosmetic cultures. Moreover, it was discovered that current TV dramas were being produced, even not based on historical evidence in the Jeongjo period.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.39-59
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• 1981

This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.37-41
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• 2010

It is a universal phenomenon for people to establish ideal images of man according to a specific time, society and race. Thus, people have invested endless endeavor to reach the standard of ideal image. Especially, they made efforts to embody the ideal image of man as a perfect human image using appearance feature like a human body and clothing. Shi jing(詩經) is considered as a very valuable source book which reveals the life style, customs, thinking, ideas, and emotion of people of that period. The purpose of this study is to analyze the ideal image of man and woman which ancient Chinese pursued, focusing Shi jing(詩經). The results are as following. The ideal image of man is nice, handsome, dignified, generous and gentle. Besides, he should have adequate sense of humor, tall height. clear eye, broad forehead, moderate and upright behavior, outstanding horsemanship and marksmanship and braveness. Meanwhile, the ideal image of woman was described as gentle, decent, and graceful. Also, she should have tall height, light complexion, pretty hand, long neck, broad forehead, clear eyes, and charming black hair. The ideal beauty of woman included nobility and elegant personality in addition to the good physical appearance.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권10호
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• pp.1161-1174
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• 2011

An approach method of the semiotics theory is analyzing fashion: the look is that a sign represents one character and the image is interpreted as the destination of the changes. The fashion image interpretation by semiotics is possible because the fashion phenomenon by society has been accumulated in their abbreviation code. It is not possible to produce contradictions of the human imagination coined solution. The myth relieved to people, allowanced a meaning in the world and explained it have been unable to explain and protect us. Today's role of the world myth becomes the star's future. Public resting star's fashion image analysis promote that we understand the inherent desire. Madonna probably is one of the world's most famous women. To Create Madonna's own mythology staged image in various attire reveals symbolism. In this study, Madonna's fashion images, the myth 8 analysis of semiotics represent publicity. Madonna's album jacket 8 analysis of the myth. The fit and the relationship between the star and myths closely is obvious. The Madonna fashion image investigate that so forth implied myth into duality of feminine, upset of gender roles, upset of sexual roles, object of worship. In addition to the creation of these myths are based on sensuality heterosexual fashion images, body-conscious look, lingerie look, Androgynous Look, Dominatrix Look in the fashion style of the images, fashion items made to body suit, bra top, black panties, black boots, long gloves, pink, red, gold, satin, and leather; the addition, there are exaggerated props and accessories. These use such as the human body building wave blond hair. This study through Madonna's fashion image, semiotics analysis is acquainted with suitable means of myth.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• 동서간호학연구지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 1998

The purposes of this study were to identify the contents, frequency of use, and the rationales of folk remedies frequently used for first aid at home for stomachache, vomiting, strain, food poisoning, vaginal bleeding, or wounds of snake or dog bite, or bee sting. As the method of the study, data were collected by conducting a questionnaire of 185 persons, who filled it out or who were interviewed from May to August in 1998. The collected data was analyzed by using frequency and the rationales for the contents of the folk remedies were described base on literatures. The results were as follows,. 1. The folk remedies for stomachache in frequency order were 'warming the abdomen', 'rubbing the abdomen with a hand', or 'pricking a finger to bleed', which have the rationals. 2. The folk remedies for vomiting in frequency order are 'drinking water of watery radish' and 'pricking a finger to bleed', which have the rationales. 3. The folk remedies for strain in frequency order are 'soaking the affected area into cold water or applying an ice pack' and 'after soaking jasmine in water, making a dough with flour, and then attaching it on the affected area', which have the rationales, Additionally, although the frequencies are low, 'drinking brewed Achyranthis Radix' and 'applying brewed leaves and stalks of Sambuci Cortex' have the rationales. 4. The folk remedies for food poisoning in frequency order are 'drinking black beans and licorice brewed together' and 'eating mung beans', which have the scientific grounds. 5. The folk remedies for bloody discharge in frequency order are 'drinking brewed lotus root' and 'eating boiled chicken stuffed with root of bell-flower'. However, 'drinking brewed Thujae orientalis Folium' has the rationales. 6. The folk remedy for snake bite wounds that has the scientific grounds is 'sucking blood by a person without hurt in the mouth'. However, quite a lot of people apply alum or soy paste, which has no rationales. 7. The folk remedies for the bee sting in frequency order are 'after removing the sting, applying soy paste or sauce' and 'applying saliva'. No rationales for 'applying saliva' have been found. 8. The folk remedy for the dog bite wound that has the rationales is 'applying juice of leaves or stalks of Xanthii Fructus'. However, 85% of surveyed people use remedies that have no scientific grounds, such as 'applying burnt dog hair mixed with (sesame) oil' and 'applying soy paste or sauce'. Various materials are used in folk remedies for first aid treatment as shown above. Some of the folk remedies have the rationales since their medicinal actions have been found. However, the medicinal actions of the majority have not been found, but only known that they are effective, Especially for the materials except botanical drugs, they are used without knowing the effects since their components and pharmacognosies have not been described in any literature. The results of this research may be used for materials to educate the surveyed people or to consult them. Accordingly, the folk remedies that have the rationales are required to continue to study to find out the effects.