• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권10호
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• pp.85-100
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque images in fashion specially focused on the postmodern grotesque with the relationship between body and fashion. The results are as follows: The postmodern grotesque fashion images in the years of 1990-2000 can be analyzed as trans-stylistic, trans-boundaries which have been set by the modem western white elite men group. The postmodern grotesque fashion images in the years of 1990-2000 can be categorized as 1) unclear boundaries between genders: body and dress; human being and non-human being; life and death; wholeness and fragmentation; clear body and abject body. 2) violence to the body: body mutation by simplification, exaggeration; body injury.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2004

그로테스크의 미학과 그 오락적 가치는 애니메이션이라는 표현매체가 갖는 특징과 그 속성에서 많은 공통점을 지니고 있으며 이러한 애니메이션에 나타난 그로테스크한 이미지 표현 방식은 현대 이미지 디지털화 기술이 발전하면서 그 표현 영역이 확대되었다. 실사와 애니메이션의 합성, 오브제 애니메이션으로 표현되던 그로테스크 이미지는 Full 3D 애니메이션의 기술, 그리고 모션캡쳐로 인한 가상캐릭터에 대한 현실감 있는 움직임 부여로 좀 더 사실감 있게 그 부조화성을 발전시키고 있다. 그 소재 또한 현대 과학문명의 발달과 더불어 다양해 졌다. 그 한 예가 사이보그 캐릭터의 등장이며 이러한 그로테스크한 이미지는 현대에 이르러 그 여러 특징 중에 인간소외를 다루는 애니메이션에서 주로 등장하기 시작한다. 그리고 이러한 그로테스크 이미지 표현방식의 변화는 향후 영상기술의 발달과 더불어 방법적 양식을 달리하여 VR 형태, 인터랙티브한 영상으로 그 표현매체를 옮기면서 그로테스크한 이미지와 성향은 비인간성을 강조하는 영상장르로 대변되어 갈 것으로 본다

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.168-178
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• 2015

본 연구는 츠카모토 신야의 영화 <철남>(1989)의 기계적-몸 이미지에 대한 연구로 탈인간화 하는 몸 그리고 욕망에 대한 해석을 시도 하였다. <철남>에서 살펴본 기계적-몸 이미지는 초현실주의적 이미지, 그로테스크적 이미지, 그리고 에로스적 이미지로 관찰되었다. 기계적-몸의 초현실주의적 이미지는 <철남>의 변화과정에서 보이는 변용, 파괴, 착란, 그리고 환상에 대한 과장으로 파악되었고, 그로테스크적 이미지는 인물의 일상적인 공간에서 기괴한 형태로의 변형으로 인간의 내재된 실체를 보여줌으로써 엽기성과 나약함이 혼합된 이미지로 관찰 되었다. 그리고 에로스적 이미지는 불완전한 존재가 완전함을 추구하고자 하는 욕망에 의해 스스로의 파괴와 재탄생을 이루는 과정에서 나타났다. 위의 세 가지 이미지 유형에 대한 분석은 세계정복을 꿈꾸는 과부화된 인간의 욕망이 탈인간화된 기계적-몸으로서 비유기체로의 시각화로 귀결된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is first, to see through the aesthetic essence of the clothing as art, through theoretical consideration of cultural feature and body style in Postmodern Feminism. Also, this study will examine the aesthetic value in artistic meaning regarding a Deformational body image in visual an. Second, this study will analysis the formative character of Modern Art to wear which expressed unfixed body style, followed by the change of Postmodern Feminity, as a Deformation image. This character will be categorized by Expansion, Grotesque, Pleasure, and Virtuality. The following is the result of this study. Expansion expressed in modern Art to wear created intentional structure of the form, and intentionally presented refusal of body existence through disembodied. Grotesque expressed refusal and deviation of women's ideal body style, which is defined by mannish discourse, very grotesquely. Pleasure pleasantly presented free emotion through an intentional transformation like distortion or imbalance of the body By paradoxically reproducing women's virtual body as other unfixed female identity was expressed visually through virtuality to embody post-gender.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.436-499
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to be inquired social and cultural significance of the Grotesque phenomenon in the late 1990's make-up, as well as its experimentalism and avantgardism. The Grotesque is the aesthetic concept, which is composed of ambivalent structure of humor and horror, interest and disgust through join of heterogenous factors, distortion, extreme and overstatement in the patterns and materials of make-up. The Grotesque in the modern make-up is represented in the make-up advertisements and collections. In this paper, the author classified the Grotesque phenomenon with the Kitsch, the Machine, the Animal and the Devil, focused on heterogenous factors. The results are as follows. 1. The Kitsch in the make-up uses not cosmetics but imitations, ready-made goods, and ordinary materials. It expresses modern culture's laziness through shocking self-expression. 2. The Machine in the make-up means silver or white color's make-up, and represents cyber period's arrival through contrary irony, loss of the human value and the personifications of machine. At the same time, it is understood as the curing of human alinetion. 3. The Animal in the make-up utilizes the wild animal's horn, the reptiles'sputum, and the legend's animal. It points out a human false virtual image, and overturns make-up's traditional aesthetic concept. 4. The Devil in the make-up shows vampire's cuspid, demon's horn, artificial nail, and black color's make-up. It raises social irrationality and discrepancy of capitalism, and expresses paradoxically the nature of human life. The Devil in the make-up expresses the creator's innovation, anxiety of fin-de-siecle, and simultaneously criticizes and cures confused reality. It shows also avantgarde implementation of dissolution of traditional aesthetic concept and acceptance ugliness.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.106-119
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• 2008

This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.405-414
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• 2022

본 연구는 프로이트(Sigmund Freud)의 언캐니(Uncanny) 개념과 그로테스크 이미지가 특징적으로 드러나는 마기 마랭(Maguy Marin)의 작품(1981)를 분석함으로써 무용작품의 미학적 해석 지평을 확장시킬 가능성을 발견하는 것에 목적을 두었다. 언캐니와 그로테스크 이론은 문헌연구와 함께 호프만의 『모래 사나이』(1816)를 사례로 제시하였다. 무용작품 분석에서는 무대공간, 움직임, 의상, 음성 등 다양한 요소들을 활용하였다. 이를 통해 이 작품이 언캐니와 그로테스크를 통해 전통적 무대미학의 고정관념에서 벗어나 관객의 정신적 참여를 제공하는 실험정신을 가진 작품이라는 점을 발견해 낼 수 있었다. 아울러 시대에 따른 관점변화가 무용 창작에 영향을 주듯이 작품 분석을 통한 다양한 미학적 해석방법의 담론화는 향후 무용 연구에 다양한 방향성을 제공하리라 사료되며, 이 연구가 무용예술의 미적 가치와 위상을 올리는 데 도움이 되기를 기대한다.