• 제목/요약/키워드: Gold earrings

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신라 5~6세기 무덤 출토 팔찌에 대한 연구 -물리적·형태적 특성 및 착장 양상을 중심으로 (A Study of the Bracelets Excavated from Fifth-and Sixth-century Silla Kingdom Tombs: Physical Characteristics and Wearing Practices)

  • 윤상덕
    • 박물관과 연구
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    • 제1권
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    • pp.174-197
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    • 2024
  • 피장자의 성별 및 위계 연구에 신라 마립간기 무덤 출토 귀금속제 장신구는 주요 연구대상이다. 그럼에도 팔찌(釧)는 소홀히 다루어졌는데, 최근 하대룡이 팔찌를 통해 성별을 추정한 연구를 발표하여 주목받았다. 이에 신라 팔찌의 기본 요소에 대한 관찰과 정리가 필요해졌고 이 글에서 물리적인 성격부터 외관과 변천, 착장 양상을 검토하였다. 대상 팔찌는 총 176점으로 은제, 금제가 대부분이며, 동, 유리 등이 확인되었다. 제작방법은 대부분 일회용 토범(土范)을 사용해서 주조로 만들었으며, 특히 각목문이나 돌기문도 새긴 것이 아니라 주조임을 알 수 있었다. 유리 팔찌와 용문양 팔찌는 둥근 형태의 거푸집을 사용하고, 판금제작을 제외한 나머지 팔찌는 '一자'형 거푸집으로 주조하여 둥글게 구부린 것으로 보았다. 이렇게 구부린 뒤에 양 끝을 접합해서 땜한 경우(폐쇄형)와 접합하지 않고 열린 형태로 둔 경우(개방형)로 나눌 수 있다. 변천은 이한상의 연구와 같이 황남대총 북분에서 출토된 문양 없는 둥근 봉의 형태에 각목문이 부가되고, 6세기가 되면 돌기형이 유행하는 방향을 확인하였는데, 초기형태는 원삼국시대의 가는 봉형 팔찌에서 이어진 것으로 추정하였다. 팔찌는 착장 뒤에 쉽게 빠지지 않도록 손목에 맞춰서 제작해야 하며, 이를 위해 개방형의 디자인이 사용될 수 밖에 없다. 또 금, 은과 동의 연성을 고려하면 늘림이나 변형은 가능하다고 보았다. 결국 팔찌가 남성의 손에 들어가기에 작더라도 개방형은 착장할 수 있으며, 폐쇄형도 타원형으로 변형하면 남성도 착장이 불가능하지 않다고 판단하였다. 즉, 변형 가능 정도에 따라 개방형인 A유형에서 유리팔찌와 같이 변형이 거의 불가능한 D유형까지 나누었을 때, 개방형인 A유형이 세환이식 착장자에게 더 많이 확인되며, 변형이 어려운 C, D 유형은 세환이식 착장자에게는 보이지 않고 태환이식 착장자에게서만 발견되는 점을 확인하였다. 따라서 팔찌는 남성도 착장할 수 있었으며, 세환이식과 태환이식 및 대도 착장을 기준으로 남녀를 구별하는 기존의 연구는 여전히 유효하다고 생각한다

이집트 복식의 재해석을 통한 미적 특성에 따른 조형적 특성에 관한 연구 (The Aesthetic and Formative Characteristics of Egypt Retro Trends)

  • 김은실
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제17권3호
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    • pp.383-395
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.

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A study on the Assyrian Costume

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제14권3호
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2010
  • The Assyrians usually wore two types - the tunic and the shawl. These two types were worn alone, or in combination and changes were introduced by varying the proportions of the tunic or shawl. The tunic appeared to be of the sleeves are short and reaching to the ankles or shortened to knee length according to the rank. Assyrian shawl pattern can be divided into five distinct styless. Many of the styles were suitable for costumes to wear in religious plays and pageants. Fringed shawls were the trademark of forma1 Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was a long fringed shawl. Intermediate rank wore shawl with short fringes and lower grade wore no shawl at all. The military costume was comparative uniformity : conical helmets was regarded as Scythic in character, short, fringed tunics, wide belts or helmet, round caps and long tunics covered in metal scales, belted at the waist. Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or was a plaid tunic and wide belt over it. They wore gold crown and horned Cap and tiara, ugal (head-dress) and the most ordinary earrings were the drop and the cross shape and necklace was made of the coloured stones and bracelets ended with heads of animal was regarded as Scythy style or adorned with a rosette at the centre.

신라복식과 위구르복식의 관계 연구 (The Comparative Study of Costume and Ornaments between Shilla and Uighur)

  • 한윤숙
    • 복식
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    • 제24권
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 1995
  • This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

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구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 - ("A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments -)

  • 박찬부
    • 복식
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    • 제10권
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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