• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.467-474
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• 2010

최근 생체 신호 측정을 위한 기능성 의류는 동작 잡음에 의한 노이즈를 최대한 줄여 정확한 생체 신호를 측정 가능케 하는 것의 중요성에 대한 논의가 이루어지고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 영향 요인별 고려 사항을 반 영하여 3-리드(lead)방식의 은사 자수의 직물 전극을 개발하고, '일자형 절개 타입', '십자형절개 타입', '엑스형 절개 타입', '곡선 엑스형 절개 타입'의 총 네 가지 타입의 생체신호 센싱 스마트 의류의 시안을 설계하고 제작하였다. 디자인 시안은 민소매형태의 남성용 티셔츠로 신축성 있는 소재를 사용하여 인체 굴곡을 따라 의복과 전극이 밀착될 수 있도록 하였으며, 트랜스미터를 이용하여 메인 컴퓨터로 데이터가 무선 전송되게 하였다. 각 재모듈화형 의류 타입별 인체 동작에 의한 영향과 정지 및 동작 상태에서의 심전도 센싱 성능을 평가하기 위해 동작에 따른 전극의 변위를 측정하고, 심전도 측정 평가를 실시하여 SNR을 분석하였다. 본 실험 결과를 반영하여 의류 디자인 시안의 수정 및 보완 과정을 거친 후, 최종적으로 '연속-부착형', '삽입-분리형'의 두 가지 타입의 생체신호 센싱 스마트의류 디자인 모형의 모듈화 방안을 제시하였다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.137-152
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the disposition of adolescents in their ornament wearing pattern associate with their life style and clothing behavior. The subject of this study consists of 345 middle and high school girls living in Chung-Nam Province and Taejon Metropolitan City. SPSS/PC+ program was utilized to calculated frequency(N), mean value(M) and standard deviation(SD) for statistical analysis. Differences among the populations were examined through f test, ANOVA. The results of this study reveals that the ornaments wearing patterns are significantly different according to their life style and clothing behavior as follows: 1. Correlation between the wear of ornaments and the life style: School girls who pursue the modernistic life style prefer the fashionable ornaments (e.g. sunglasses) and they are always in contact with the latest information. On the contrary, school girls who pursue the practical life style emphasize on the practical use when they purchase the ornaments, e.g. umbrella. School girls having romantic or passive nature have a preference for the brand name and brand image of the ornaments and they in general would like to buy ornaments such as the bracelets. 2. Correlation between the wear of ornaments and the clothing behavior: School girls having sympathetic nature and being deeply interested in clothing put a stress on the latest fashion of the ornaments. They usually want to buy fashionable ornaments such as the cellular phone, beeper and sunglasses. Subjects who estimate themselves by their garments are sensitive to the price of the ornaments while aesthetes emphasize the brand image of the ornaments. Chaste school girls put their emphasis on the quality of the ornaments and they most want to have functional hair bands. Following suggestions can be made based on the discussions above: It is necessary for us to have correct understanding about the correlation between the ornaments and clothing of school girls in order to lead them to have appropriate clothing behavior. Furthermore, it is required to construct a bridge linking a course of study to rational habits guidance which will provide us more appropriate tools for clothing behavior guidance.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.157-166
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• 2009

This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.17-44
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• 1997

Medieval European practical art and style of costume is studied through referring to the literatures. The type of clothing that was seen on tapestries arts and crafts paintings and wall paintings and appeared in the architecture such as church. There were symbolic aspects of color motifs at this period and some restraints for clothing according to the social class, It was a period that draped garments due to the War of Crusades is appeared. Be-cause the medieval taste and decorative character is not only 'formative art' but also the taste beyoud 'mode' and atomsphere of that times it could be seen the strong reflec-tion of customs in the clothing of that times which is shown in works of art. 1) The purpose of Christian art which was found in mosaics stained glasses wall pain-tings and statues of architecture was not just the revival of natural phenomena but visuali-zation of sacred and invisible things. It was valuable to understandin of the spiritual through the sense organ It was a monumental art that was combined with decorative func-tion and role of the Bible. It revealed what was about the religious spiritual miracle, 2) In the medieval European painting characteristic and beautiful creativity was the basis of an argument. Both "Worship of East-ern" that is painted ion a parchment and "Cor-onation of Charles VI" were described decor-ation motifs on the edge of buildings geo-metric patterns and others with outstanding skill. there were precise technologic skill of architect and glassmen and lots of patience of craftsmen. " The Labour of the Months" and the scene of"A Trial at the Court" is also de-scribed elaborately. 3) Tapestry was developed in France Ger-many Swiss at the 14th century. Religionary and historical themes unicorn lady bird flowering plants and others were major motifs. It was very important as decorative wall coverings and as practical door arch and bed hangings. It was made through patient hard work with simple technique and it was con-sidered as an art for practical use. Tapestry was what everyone wish to have. It is reckoned for the item of the best gift. The royalty and nobility ordered and used custom-made tapestries. Sometimes the subject of motifs consisted of series which were deeply related to living 4) Decorative arts and crafts was the art that used materials such as precious metals jewels and others and that accorded with the luxurious and gorgeous taste of the royalty and nobility. Christian considered splendid and beautiful color of light as a symbol of glory. They used also for church appliances, There were metal crafts wood crafts textile crafts and others, As was stated above the costume appeared on the arts and crafts for living revealed the process of changes saw how the politic econ-omic and social organizations were developed.and social organizations were developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1800-1809
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• 2006

첨단소재와 테크놀로지를 수용 접목하기 위한 연구는 컴퓨터 공학 분야와 패션에서 나날이 중요한 이슈로 부각되고 있다. 특히 웨어러블 컴퓨터는 통합 소프트웨어 개념, 커뮤니케이션 장치들과 착용자를 위해 '감지' 할 수 있는 옷으로 전환되는 센서가 갖고 있는 한계를 극복할 수 있는 새로운 아이디어들을 잠재하고 있어 앞으로 이 분야에서 많은 개발 가능성을 보이고 있다. 웨어러블 컴퓨터의 기능은 이제 더 이상 하나의 옷이기 보다 옷과 입을 수 있는 컴퓨터의 상호 작용이 되기도 한다. 이 착용할 수 있는 컴퓨터통신망은 자료를 전달하고 파워와 제어신호를 착용자 개개인의 공간 안에서 조절 가능하게 되었다. 그럼에도 현실적으로 웨어러블 컴퓨터가 상업적으로 정착하기에는 여러 가지 어려운 문제점들을 갖고 있다. 이러한 시점에서 본 논문은 일반인들이 갖고 있는 웨어러블 컴퓨터에 대한 인지도와 관심도를 조사 및 분석하고 앞으로의 상업적 전망을 연구하는데 목적을 두고, 패션의 주요 도시 중 하나인 런던에 거주하는 20-30대의 젊은 층을 대상으로 설문조사를 실시하였다. 설문조사를 통해 얻은 결론을 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 소비자들은 웨어러블 테크놀로지에 친근하지 않은 것으로 나타났다. 개인 정보가 유출될지도 모른다는 우려와 기계조작에 대한 거부감, 비싼 비용 등으로 부정적인 견해가 더욱 큰 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 소비자들이 더욱 흥미를 갖는 웨어러블 컴퓨터 아이템들은 건강문제와 개인의 안전에 관한 것이며 이는 앞으로 이 분야의 잠재성과 시장성에 중요한 요인으로 작용하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 마지막으로, 웨어러블 테크놀로지의 상업적 시장성을 위해서는 상호작용 장치의 단순화, 편리한 작동법 등도 소비자들에게 중요한 관건이 되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 앞으로의 웨어러블 테크놀로지는 단순한 기술 개발에 앞서 소비자의 확실한 안전을 바탕으로한 상품의 제공을 위해서 다양한 연구조사가 보다 더 적극적으로 선행되어야 할 것으로 여겨진다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1979-1990
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• 2009

본 연구는 20세 이상 비만여성을 위한 의류치수체계를 제안하기 위한 것으로, 2003~2004년 한국인 인체치수조사사업의 원시자료 중 선행연구에 의해 의류학 분야에서 주로 사용되는 비만판정지수 및 비만판정용 측정치 7개 항목(Rohrer지수, Vervaeck지수, BMI, 상대체중, 허리둘레, WHR, 젖가슴둘레) 중 5개 이상의 비만판정도구에서 비만으로 판정된 499명을 대상으로 하였다. 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 치수체계 제안에 앞서 2,212명의 성인여성 전체의 인체치수와 499명의 비만여성의 기초통계치수를 제시한 결과, 키 등의 높이항목 전체와 키와 상관관계가 높은 몇몇 길이항목을 제외한 대부분의 치수항목 즉, 둘레항 목, 두께 및 너비항목 등에서의 인체측정치가 크고, 비만판정지수도 높은 것으로 나타났다. 상의류의 치수체계 제안을 위해 젖가슴둘레, 엉덩이둘레, 키가 기본신체부위로 선정되었으며, 하의류의 치수체계 제안을 위해 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레가 기본신체부위로 선정되었다. 치수체계 제안을 위한 교차분석표에서 젖가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레 등 둘레항목은 3cm 간격과 5cm 간격을 비교하여 제시하였으나 키는 5cm 간격으로만 한정하였다. 두 치수간격 중 보다 높은 커버율과 커버효율을 보이는 치수간격을 선택하고, 사용자의 분포율도 전체 비만여성의 1% 이상, 2% 이상 및 3% 이상으로 나누어 각각의 분포율별로 커버율과 커버효율이 높은 치수구간을 선정하였다. 상의류와 하의류 치수체계 모두에서 3% 이상의 사용자 분포율을 보이는 5cm 치수간격이 가장 높은 커버효율을 나타냈으므로, 이 결과를 바탕으로 상의류를 위한 치수호칭으로 10개, 하의류를 위한 치수호칭으로 9개를 제안하였으며, 각 호칭별로 기본신체부위의 평균 인체측정치와 참고신체부위의 평균 인체측정치를 제공하여 호칭별 의류제품의 설계에 기초자료로 활용할 수 있도록 하였다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.443-456
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• 2017

사명대사의 금란가사와 장삼은 역사적 인물의 유품이자 조선시대 불교 복식으로 1973년에 국가민속문화재 제29호로 지정되었다. 1984년 세척과 형태 유지를 위한 보존처리를 거쳐 표충사호국박물관에 보관되다가, 2013년 문화재청에서 실시한 정기조사 결과 재처리 필요성이 제기되었다. 금란가사는 본래 25조인데 두 조각으로 분리된 상태로 결실된 부분이 많고, 장삼 또한 깃의 일부가 남아있지 않아 원형 복원이 필요했다. 재처리 과정은 처리 전 조사, 세척, 보강직물 염색, 보강 및 복원, 훈증소독의 과정으로 진행되었다. 특히 새로운 보존처리 재료와 방법을 적용하여 손상되거나 결실된 부분을 보강, 복원하여 원형을 최대한 회복시키고자 하였다. 이번 보존처리는 보존처리의 가역성이라는 기본 원칙 하에 노후화된 보강 재료를 교체하고 발전된 방법을 적용한 직물 문화재의 재처리 사례에 대한 연구결과이다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.