• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.830-841
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• 2001

The purpose of my study is to provide some information on clothing for the handicapped with special needs. So I have designed clothes for the handicapped to provide some solutions for their clothing problems. These clothing designs for crutch and wheelchair users were based on solutions proposed by many researchers. The number of handicapped has been increasing gradually for years, especially the physically handicapped. Although they make use of many instruments for ease of movements and other physical conditions, most of the handicapped generally use crutches and wheelchairs. So I designed clothing for the crutch and wheelchair users. In order to ease problems in dressing and undressing, when using the crutch and wheelchair, various physical attributes of clothing should be considered: (1) Selection of fabric, (2) construction and location of the opening, (3) type and location of fastenings, and (4) design of garments for comfort and ease of movement. Clothing should also be able to satisfy psychological needs related to attractive appearance. My designs have proposed seven items of clothing. These include a cape-coat, over-blouse, one-piece dress and an pants for the crutch users. Also, a shirts, pants, and wheelchair wrap for wheelchair users will be displayed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2003

The purposes of the study were (1) to analysis Korean traditional wedding costumes through families's wedding photographs from 1940 to 2000, and (2) to categorize bride and groom's costumes according to the wedding time by means of a time series analysis. (3) to find out functional relationship among changes in garment types, garment details, embellishments and colors. The study was a documentary research and data were collected from 390 family wedding photographs by a convenient sampling. The data were analyzed by qualitative and quantitative method and the statistic used were frequency, content analysis, and cross-tab analysis. The results were as follows; First, the garments of wedding couples were categorized into 5 period according to garment's characteristics. 1. The period between 1940～1959 : Korean traditional wedding costumes and western style wedding costumes were existed together in Korean wedding culture. 2. The period between 1960～early 1970's western wedding costumes were dominated. 3. The period of late 1970's : wedding couple's costumes became more formal and decorative. 4. The period of 1980's : introducing see-through materials for brides and tuxedo suit for grooms. 5. The period of 1990's : extravagance in shapes and exposure. Second, there were significant relationships among brides's dress types and neckline, glove length, embellishments and transparency of materials and among groom's garment types and necktie types, types and color of shirts, vests. Third, the time series analysis of bride and groom's outfit produced 5 schematic expressions of wedding outfits according to the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.73-88
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• 1997

In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.157-173
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• 1997

The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fashion style in the drama 'sex and the city's character. Frist of all, mixing and matching style is one of Carrie's signiture styles, namely her ability to combine haute couture fashion with high street bargains and vintage buys to make ingenious ensambles. There are two main ways to go with this seperates look, the equal look, when tops are put with equally fabulous bottoms, and the unequal look, when fabulous tops go with less fabulous bottoms. Second, nowadays vintage style is one of fashion trend. The 'Sex and the city' has define trends when it comes to jewellery, it is the 'Carrie' nameplate and the Hermes's horseshoe necklaces, especially pearls were a big hit for vintage style. Also it takes a floral pattern and various hat makes a vintage style. Third, Sexual style shows a halter and sleeveless dress with long earing and splendid necklaces. And it takes a leopard pattern. Fourth, romantic style, one of the 'Sex and the city"s character's favourite garments is the dress. Its makes romantic moods a delicate with handbags, Manolo Blahnik's and Jimmy Choo's high hill shoes and corsages. The romantic pattern is floral and material is chiffon.ffon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.21-30
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• 2003

An underwear originated from when a human lost his purity and recognized his situation. But, it could not be sure when underwear and an outer garment were classified according to a function. An underwear has been used for a decorative and mental function, as well as a practical one. Also, it is the most fundamental medium to understand a human and a period. However, many studies on outer garments not an underwear have been done till now Therefore, this study was done to be arranged and analyzed materials scattered in order to give a correct understanding of an underwear as a clothes. The data were based on the existing fashion pamphlets, fashion magazines and other materials. The main results were as follows; Female's contemporary underwear was classified into Hosiery, Foundation and Lingerie. The Hosiery was again classified into chemise, combination, drawers and brief. The most typical hosiery was a chemise for a health and hygiene, and the drawers was adhered closely to a body. The Foundation which had a function to be well shaped was classified into Brassiere, Girdle, All in one, Body suit, Corset, Waist nipper and Garter belt. A typical contemporary foundation was a brassiere and a girdle. A brassiere had a role to support the breast up and A girdle compensate a hip area. The Lingerie which made body silhouette be vivid was classified into Slip, Panty, Wintum, Linge, Home lingerie, and so on. A slip, a panty and a lingo were typical lingeries. A slip made an outer garment be well-formed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1004-1014
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop a well-fitting bodice basic pattern for high school irk. Two bodice patterns were first made based on the most recent existing drafting methods and sensory evaluation was done on the patterns by the present researchers Two high school girls possessing standard physical condition tried and evaluated the functionality of the garments made by the two bodice patterns. Based on the results of the evaluation, a new bodice basic pattern was developed. The new bodice basic pattern was drafted by long measurement method. The dimensions of new bodice basic pattern were as follows. Bust circumference=B/2+4cm, Arms hole depth=C.B/2+1.5cm, Back width=B/6+4cm, Front width=B/6+3cm, Back neck width=B/12+0.5cm, Back neck depth=Back neck width/3cm, Front neck width=B/12cm, Front neck depth=B/12+0.5cm. The sensory and functional evaluations were also conducted for the new bodice basic pattern and the two patterns drafted by the existing methods. The new bodice basic pattern showed better fit both visually and functionally than the existing patterns. SPSS package including means, standard deviation and one-sample T-test were used for data analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.433-443
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the evaluative criteria for leather garment and investigate differences among the evaluative criteria of consumer groups, which were categorized by consumers' lifestyle. A questionnaire was developed and administered 475 males and females from twenties to forties living in Seoul and Daejon during August in 2001. Data were analysed by frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test and one way-ANOVA. The results were as follows: 1. The leather garment evaluative criteria were found to have four different dimensions: a) aesthetic, b) sensory properties and quality, c) practicality, and d) symbolism. Especially, the sensory properties and quality including the weight of the leather garment, odor, and hand feel were identified as distinctive evaluative criteria for leather garment compared with general garments. 2. The leather garment evaluative criteria were used differently according to consumers' lifestyle. Consumers with a passive lifestyle tended to consider economic efficiency and practicality. The confident and active consumers with interests in their appearances tended to buy leather garment for symbolic and aesthetic reasons. 3. There were significant differences in evaluative criteria for the leather garment among demographics-gender, age, and marital status.