• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characterics HYBRID, strictly defined, an offspring that is a cross between different species, genera, or, in rare cases, families, More loosely defined, a hybrid can also be a cross between parents of different subspecies or varieties of a species. Hybrid varieties of plants and animals are of economic value because the hybrid is nearly always more vigorous, larger, and more fertile than either of its parents. Plant and animal hybrids may arise spontaneously in nature or may be produced intentionally by man. Forward-looking fashion explores progress. Adjusting to a world that has integrated genetics and its mutations, the new silhouette seems without references, as if born from a spontaneous generation. A slightly bizarre composite, asymmetrical, discreetly technological aesthetic, it draws on the latest technological details. the pursuit of performance and ergonomics, yet also of comfort and amusement that takes into account the body and its articulations, generates strange garments. Inspired by medical protheses. Focos on fabric touches, their weightiness and surface effects obtained with silicone, rubber or wax. in a range that highlights yellows but can also contrast with colder, slightly surgical hues, the hybrid woman doesn't necessarily want to stand out.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1999

The primary purpose of this study is to inquire into the characteristic of exposure presented in fashion, identify the correct concept of exposure from an aesthetic perspective, and grasp the contemporary meaning of exposure presented in fashion. As a result of study, the following findings were obtained: First, the surrealist style of fashion exhibited representations such as the relocation of the partial details, the harmonization of the natural and the artificial, the emphasis or expansion of each part of the body, and the like. It used highlighted the genital region with ornamentations or used the technique of paradoxically exposing the part of the body always covered. And it exbibited the paradoxical relationship of exposure and concealment by exposing the concealed part of the human body. Second, the post-modern style showed the complicated phenomenon that the values of several meanings such as the historic, the folk, and the like appeared in its fashion. It shares in spatiotemporal eclecticism, pluralistic characteristics and the like found in the post-modern culture. Third, the deconstructive style gets rid of the distinction between the external space and the private space by translating underwears into outer garments. It destroys clothing by tearing or perforating clothing whereby it represents the poor image. Coupled with women‘s psychology of exposure and the new generation’s way of thinking indifferent to others‘ eyes, this fashion of deconstruction occupies the great current of fashion. Deconstructive fashion gets away with the rule of ‘having to wear clothing to suit TPO(Time, Place and Occasion), the traditional norm of wearing clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.8
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• pp.1233-1241
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• 2010

This study analyzes the body characteristics of high school boys according to 3 different body types in order to improve the fit of upper garments. First, among the lateral body types, the straight body type was selected from the SizeKorea 3D scanned data and 2D measurement data. Second, high school boys (classified as straight lateral body type) were grouped into type B, A, and Y drop groups. The percentages of type B, type A, type Y are 17.8%, 48.1%, 32.1% respectively. The characteristics of the body types were analyzed. While the bust circumference were the same among the three body types (chest width, back width, back across shoulder, and bust width did not show a significant difference); however, waist and hip measurements showed a significant difference among the three body types. Third, the height of the high school boys ranged between 165cm and 180cm and the bust circumference between 85cm and 97cm. For the bust size categories, type B and type Y are distributed similarly; however, type A is distributed in the smaller bust size categories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.67-89
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• 1997

During thousands of years the people of china have not only created the brilliant cul-ture with a world reputation but also brought about an abundant treasury of paramountly beautiful hairdo fashions beyond comparison. Hair styles are an important symbol of the ma-terial and cultural civilization of a certain his-torical period. In Dang Dynasty the country was unified the economy was properous and the political situation was relatively stable. These spelt the solid foundation on which the rich and colourful varieties in the hair styles of women emerged. The numerous hair fashions in Tang Dynasty woman folk could be summed up into three catagories-high bun hanging bun and flat bun. Of course like the garments hair fashions are also the marks for the social status of the women in the feudal society. The hairstyle of the women of the Song Dynasty still followed the fashion of the later period of the Tang Dynasty the high bun be-ing the favoured style. To dress this type of high bun switches were generally used sometimes fashioned in to switch buns of various shapes coiled directly on top of the head. Women from rich families however usually had hairpins and combs made into the shape of flowers birds phoenixes of butterflies to be pinned on top of the buns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.251-264
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.