• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.366-379
• /
• 1995

This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's upper torso by classifying the upper torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Factor analysis of principal component model was used to 38 directly measured items, and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Seven factors were extracted from the factor analysis. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth, and depth which were related with body size. On the basis of the cluster analysis using factor scores trom factor analysis as being independent variables, the subjects were classified into three groups. Three dress forms were constructed according to the characteristics for each somatotype of subjects, the three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype were analyzied by the moire pattern and horizontal section map of proposed dress forms. Wearing test by moire topography was used to evaluate wearing outline, the ease of clothes and garment space. Moire pattern and horizontal section map were useful to evaluate wearing conditions, and garment space was changed by the characteristics of the body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.1205-1220
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.1
• /
• pp.112-125
• /
• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.277-285
• /
• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.605-618
• /
• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.136-150
• /
• 2002

In this study, we proposed a method to be standing customers as the supporting system for the improvement of fashion garment industry which was the marginal growth getting into full maturity of market. As for the customer creation method of Fashion garment company is developing a marketing program to be standing customer as customer scoring to estimate a existing customer‘s buying power, and figure out minimum fixed sales of company to use a future purchasing predict. This study was a result of data from total sixty thousands data to be created for the 11 months from september. 2000 to July. 2001. The data is part of which the company leading the Korean fashion garment industry has a lot of a customer purchasing history data. But this study used only 48,845 refined purchased data to discriminate from sixty thousands data and 21,496 customer case with the exception of overlapping purchased data among of those. The software used to handle sixty thousands data was SAS e-miner. As the analysis process is put in to operation the analysis of the purchasing customer’s profile firstly, and the second come into basket analysis to consider the buying associations for Association goods, the third estimate the customer grade of Customer loyalty by 3 ways of logit regression analysis, decision tree, Artificial Neural Network. The result suggested a method to be estimate the customer loyalty as 3 independent variables, 2 coefficients. The 3 independent variables are total purchasing amount, purchasing items per one purchase, payment amount by one purchasing item. The 2 coefficients are royal and normal for customer segmentation. The result was that this model use a logit regression analysis was valid as the method to be estimate the customer loyalty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.44 no.1
• /
• pp.84-95
• /
• 2020

Wearing ease is a critical factor when designing special uniforms such as flight pilot's garment and should reflect occupational properties for better performance. This study measured skin surface on 31 areas in seven postures that refer to the pilot's occupational postures as well as made six prediction models including linear mixed model (LMM) for each body part to find the best fit model. Skin surface measured from 3D body scanned images of 11 male pilot participants. There were significantly positive and negative changes in various areas from standing posture (P1) to dynamic postures (P2-P7). Six models were designed in various compositions using stature and chest circumference as fixed effects and subject and posture as random effects. The best models were linear mixed models with one fixed effect (chest circumference or stature, varies with body parts) and two random effects (subject and posture). The results of this study provide reference data to set wearing ease for pilot's garment and suggests a new methodology in this research area, but verifying the effect of diverse independent variables is left for future studies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.467-476
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.47 no.1
• /
• pp.73-84
• /
• 2023

This study aims to identify the current sizing communication issues of menswear on retail websites and to suggest an effective size information presentation method. Based on sales frequency and awareness in the Korean menswear market, 22 brand websites were selected, and size-related information was investigated using 7 types of representative apparel items. The current diverse types of size codes had limitations in delivering actual product size information. Many websites preferred to display garment dimensions rather than basic body measurements, which is the suggested size designation method in Korean Standard. The websites posted fit model photos and customer reviews. However, the body size specifications, which consumers can use as a useful reference, were often omitted. There was also a high uncertainty in product size selection, with only the basic body measurement information listed, and there was a high deviation of garment dimensions within the same basic body measurements. The product size distribution did not match actual Korean body types. Based on the findings, we suggested improved effective sizing communication methods. These methods will contribute to a better online shopping environment for both consumers and retail sellers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.961-970
• /
• 2014

Several retailers such as Target and Kohle's and their vendors have piloting the 3D clothing simulation programs to produce garment samples. However, few studies have verified the virtual fit information and 3d visualization process for pants, and no study compared the commercial 3D virtual programs. This study is designed to analyze similarity of fit and appearance between real pants with 3D virtual pants based on three 3D virtual programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, and i-Designer), three lower body types (slim, normal, and thick waist type), and fit status. We selected a representative model for each lower body type, produced their custom pants according to Lee and Nam's method(2007), and took photos of front, side and back view for visual analysis. Then, we virtually tried each model's custom pants on her parametric avatar developed by manually inputting their body measurements using the three 3D virtual program. Thirty fit experts compared the real fit to virtual fit. This study found that 'Optitex' and 'i-Designer' can visualize more effectively than 'CLO 3D' in many fit locations. Regarding the body types, 3D virtual program can visualize pants fit for 'thick waist body type' more preciously than the other body types. With respect to fit status, it does not affect much on the similarity overall.