• Human Ecology Research
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.73-86
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• 2014

Persimmon juice dye-printed fabrics with printing were used for a Galot one-piece dress. The Galot dress was assessed in comparison to a white undyed one-piece dress of the same design through a wearing test conducted in a climatic chamber with an air temperature of $30{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}5%$ R.H, and 0.2m/sec air movement on 4 healthy female subjects in their 20s. The subjects went through a 30-min stable period, a 30-min exercise of walking on a $5^{\circ}$ slope treadmill at 70m/min period, and a 20-min recovery period. In addition, a physiological reaction and subjective sensation were estimated. The results showed that significant differences were mostly observed from a sweating period that occurred during the latter half of the exercise. More specific results are as follows. First, skin temperature on the chest and mean skin temperature were significantly higher (p<.01) in rayon dyed sample dresses. Second, micro-humidity on the back showed a significant difference (p<.01). Both cotton and rayon persimmon juice dyed sample dresses produced lower microhumidity than their counterparts and as for cotton the difference occurred over the entire experimental period; however, it occurred after the middle of the exercise period for rayon. Third, the sweating rate on the back decreased in both cotton and rayon with persimmon juice dye but no significant difference was observed. Fourth, subjective three sensations revealed significant differences between cotton and rayon (p<.01), indicating that the subjects felt more cool, dryer and more comfortable in a cotton Galot. As described above, the analysis of physiological responses and the subjective sensation of undyed and dyed clothing shows the effect of persimmon juice dyeing. Persimmon juice dyeing also seemly increased air permeability, moisture regain and permeability facilitating body heat ventilation, as micro-humidity and sweat rate were lowered. However, this was not shown consistently in subjective responses on comfort especially when wearing rayon dresses.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.