A purpose of this study is to comprehend a concept of 'Open Space', realization of a deconstruction, presented in his works, based on a deconstruction and surrealism Coop Himmelblau's philosophical contemplation and to look into how this concept is interpreted in spaces. A concept of 'Open Space' is functioned as not a singular meaning but a multiple meaning accompanied with other formative ingredient and contemplation, scientific paradigm and a realation with a surroundings. The concept of 'Open Space' in their architentural space is applied. First, the space openness that represents to the extreme a concept 'Open Space', as a 3D designing ways that demolishes a structure and outgrows an ex siting thinking pattern, represents multiple grade spaces and an anti-gravity space. In a material, using glass and iron provides a spacial transparency and through this, visibly liberal sense that an interior and exterior is felt as an unification. Second, an non-expressive box pattern repulses to a spatial rank nature, outgrowing an uniform geometrical system, through demolishing a geometrical system, an edge and fold pattern. This is, as an anti-gravity, dynamic a typical structure, outgrowing an orthogonal system, interpreted as a composite meaning without division in spatial area. Third, the collage is used to represent a complexity and pluralism in representing 'Open space'. The collage that forms a image through combining a fragmentary elements into being a space change, composite constitution and spatial amusement. Thus, It is worthwhile to study how the collage that forms a diverse shape will be developed making what impact as an age and surroundings changed. As we contemplate in former part, Coop Himmelblou has deployed 'deconstruction beyond deconstruction' realm as just their midterm concept in their works like the words 'The architecture must climb', the deconstructive architect. A studying for their works reflecting the 'Open Space' concept based on deconstruction must be lasted and this enables us to comprehend space concept containing an architecture and interior design.
The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.
As a fresh trial using humorous items to escape from economic recession and uncertain state of mind regarding politics and society, fun is emerging as a keyword in design area. This study classified various use of fun reflected in modern fashion design according to the theme, and analyzed the mod of expression to identify formative characteristics. Through these processes, this study built conceptual structure of fun in fashion design. 412 fashion designs which represent fun were collected from 2001 $S/S{\sim}2005$ F/W collections. Data were analyzed and categorized. Results showed that the theme of fun in the modern fashion design could be classified into humor, kidult, irony, satire/parody, storytelling, and play. The design elements mainly used were color silhouette, letter, object, and drawing, while the design principles were distortion/exaggeration, incongruity, and repetition. In addition, these expressions were related to the traditional humor theory: incongruity-resolution, superior, and relief theories. The fun in modern fashion design has such value as affirmation, warmness, entertainment, youth, contradiction, surprise, deviate, allusion, attack, and description, Finally, in regard to the subject, the fun provides active experience like play as well as passive acceptance.
Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.26
no.10
/
pp.1455-1466
/
2002
This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.
There is a commonality between Frank Lloyd Wright and Charles Rennie Mackintosh in that they created the new patterns of geometric Art Nouveau from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This study compares the furniture of Wright and Mackintosh who had significant impacts on the development of modern design for each of the periods divided by their design feature to find the individualities and similarities of their design. It is an analytical approach with an accurate understanding of the design trends of the Art Nouveau era. The results of the furniture comparison are as follows: The finding is that Wright and Mackintosh designed creative furniture in harmony with a specific indoor space, Organic design was well expressed through the selection and use of wooden materials, Based on the understanding of tree characteristics, they did not use detailed decorations, but designed the simple and rigorous forms of furniture with highlighted interest in geometry. As for shape, Wright's furniture in his early days tend to be look largely formal and heavy. Since his debut in Japan in 1905, the furniture design became very sophisticated. On the other hand, Mackintosh's chairs are characterized by plenty of geometric patterns and long back. In many cases, his chairs were designed as part of formative elements in space, not for the purpose of furniture itself. As for materials and colors, Wright used mainly cherry wood. And he also utilized metals colored in olive green, red-brown and others for office furniture. The frames, fabrics and leather used for most of the furniture have natural colors, which are harmonious with spaces. Meantime, Mackintosh used primarily oak and ash trees. He used seat cushions and various colors to make the design of furniture have a sophisticated and simple image. The materials used for seat panel are horsehair, rush, silk and leather. He applied these materials to the furniture by weaving or cutting them.
The 21st century is a multiplication age and social and cultural phenomena have become diverse and peoples' desires and individuality have become important. Accordingly, the sensibility that reflects human taste is also required in the exhibition space. The exhibitions in this age induce the direct cognition of senses or take interactive forms that contact diverse media and react. The purpose of this research is to define the concept of haptic presentation method in which the audience perceive in the exhibition space by themselves and the visual elements spread into other senses and perceive complexly, and to present the directional nature. To conduct this research, first, this researcher recognized that haptic sensory experiential research by analyzing the roles and transition history of exhibition space is needed for the present age Second, based on philosophical theories, four haptic sensory expression characteristics (medium nature, experiential nature, attractiveness, sensitiveness) were derived by substituting Giles Deleuze's four haptic spatial characteristics (grasping short distance, dispersed gaze, cognition of bodily movement, formation of synesthesia through complex senses) and six formative factors of exhibition space (space, form, size, light, quality of materials, and color). And the effective exhibition presentation methods were analyzed through six cases of experiential exhibition spaces. Accordingly, what matters in the experiential exhibition space is to produce the four characteristics: medium nature, experientiality, attractiveness, and sensitiveness in equilibrium. It is necessary for the designers to reflect it appropriately in producing so that the audience can think and experience by themselves. Accordingly, in this thesis, it could be seen that to produce the haptic production characteristics in the experiential exhibition space in equilibrium is the important factor in the experiential exhibition space. In conclusion, experiences in the exhibition space should be approached with the transcendental haptic presentation method by which even the space of actually unexperienced cognition can be expanded and experienced through the metastasis and tension of various senses. Also, researches on such senses should be developed continuously, and this researcher expects that this will become a stimulant to present a new directivity.
The studied area is situated in tho southern part of the Ogcheon fold belt, where the "Ogcheon Group" is widespread with Jurassic and Cretaceous intrusions. The regional stratigraphy may be divided into three formations, the lower pebble bearing phyllitic, the middle dark grey phyllitic, and the upper black phyllitic formations. For the purposes of the present study, the area has been partitioned to three structural subareas based on major fold axes and fault line. The main subjects of the research have been discussed from two different points, multiple deformation and minor-micro fold styles. The former is analyzed by pebble elongation, folding and lineation in a pebbly formation as well as schistosity, crenulation cleavage and crenulated lineation in the phyllitic formation. The later describes the characteristic features of fold style in each formation and structural subarea. Although minor fold axes within broad pelitic rocks usually tend to trend northeast and to plunge northward, most of these were probably formed by two stages, first a similar fold phase and second a kink fold phase. Measured structural elements indicate that crenulation cleavage in phyllite formed parallel to fold axes of folded pebble followed a NE phase of first deformation and a fold axes of pebbles diagonal to bedding of phyllite are represented by a NW phase of a second deformation. Microscopically, quartz and mica grains form a micro fold enabling one to establish tectonic levels which occur in different deformation modes in each stratigraphic sequence. Microtextures such as crenulation cleavage, kink band, aggregate band of mica and pressure shadows of porphyroblast of quartz related to qarnet and staurolite may suggest the time relation of crystallization and tectonism. The result of this study may conform that three deformation phase, NE first phase-NE second phase-NW phase, occurred in the area.
There are various schemes to improve the environment of a rir in which we dwell. Among them environment color is one of formative elements that compose a city environment, the recognition about it is coming to be high gradually. A stabilized appropriate color of city environment gives a psychological social cultural effect to the people and also can be a useful method even in public information of city image, To give a citizen sensitive aesthetic and emotional satisfaction, a systematic rational design approach is necessary in an environment color plan. Hereupon, this study suggests one model of a concrete substantial color design through analyzing a present condition, for example, an existing environment, a case study about similar space, and a question investigation for finding out preference image and applying them to the color design. Through a rational systematic environment color design one can expect several effects making identity in a region, increasing a peculiar image or unity reinforcement by total application of color scheme, creating a visual environment with aesthetic characteristic, and efficiency of continuous color management system.
As life is changing, modern people are interested in culture life more than the past and as a result Art Exhibition increases. Nowadays many methods of exhibit are introduced, especially Direct experience. Trick Art Experience exhibition introduced Direct experirence to a work of art for interests and used props, objets, images, and sounds for maximizing experience element. Trick Art Experience exhibition added humor as imitating famous painting and gave a deep impression through the optical illusion technique which make flat structure look three-dimensional structure. Recently, demands for Experience exhibition which are like Trick Art increase. This study figure out pros and cons through a comparison analysis of direction and component about Trick Art Experience exhibition and find a check list about making an audience active about experience. From now on, we have an object about showing design data including customer satisfaction measurement to make various expressions of direction and component about Experience Art through a case analysis. We have firsthand visited case spaces to experience the spaces and prepared a check list for the relevant types of expressions. Referring to the exhibit work classification system, components that correspond to Trick Art Experience exhibition were grouped according to constituting items. Among the types of expressions, the levels of satisfaction with Experience exhibition and Participating exhibit were found to be high and the level of satisfaction with Heart Moving exhibit was found to be low through surveys. Among the components, the levels of satisfaction with stereograms and formative effect elements were found to be high and those of spatial changes and media effects were found to be low through surveys. Therefore, the expressions should be reinforced and the components should be improved.
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