• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of $21^{st}$ century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.3 s.50
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• pp.114-121
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• 2005

Louis 1. Kahn was a wise architect who learned from history. He developed his own unique architecture by combining his creative sense with design principles and vocabularies that can be found in historical architecture. When restricting a space, he surrounded the space with thick walls as it had been done in historical buildings. The interior space encompassed by this method became a center-oriented and stable space. The objective of this study is to find the characteristics of Kahn's interior spaces by analyzing his projects in terms of space, form, daylight and materials. For this purpose, five works that are considered to have significance from the aspect of interior design were selected and analyzed. The characteristics realized through this study are as follows. A) Spatial features: 1) Generally speaking, each required space has been arranged symmetrically. 2) Being clearly defined as the main space, the subsidiary space, or the service space, each space also was placed very functionally. 3) The space encompassed by thick walls became a center-oriented, stable space. And in most case, it was characterized as a dark space. B) Formative features: 4) The space was defined as a basic solid such as a cylinder, a hexahedron, and an octagonal box, and was developed into a complex shape by the recessed windows. 5) Historical vocabularies such as an arch, a vault, and a dome were reinterpreted in new ways by kahn's own eyes. 6) Haying diverse shapes, the skylights enrich the space in terms of form. C) Daylight feature: 7) The vertical light entering through the skylights creates a solemn and mysterious atmosphere. 8) Given the shadows from the windows that change according to time, the interior space becomes a very vivid space. D) Material feature: 9) Harmonized with cold and smooth materials such as exposed concrete, metal, and glass, the interior space provides a modern atmosphere. 10) Warm appearing wood was used for furniture and part of walls or floors. The effective use of wood takes on a role that is quite complementary to the cold ambience of the smooth and cold materials. 11) With flexibility In building shapes, the concrete becomes the form-endowing materials.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.15 no.6 s.59
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• pp.19-26
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• 2006

This subject is about the research of Shanghai Art Deco in the aspect of architectural decoration and seek to offers an examination and analysis of the characteristics related to the Art Deco design, which appeared and dominated the field of design from 1910s to 1904s in Shanghai. Study method is a theoretical consideration of reference and gathering data through field trip. In order to carry out this subject, this study will research following factors. First, factors related to Art Deco such as the period of origin, background, spirit, aesthetics, design characteristics. This is followed by the influence of Art Deco movement begun in 1925. Second, the background of Shanghai Art Deco architecture style was studied. Third, the case studies of Shanghai Art Deco Architecture and interior decoration were researched by the expressive factors which were divided by style, form, material and color. As a result early style had compradore style about 1900, later reactionism prevailed of 1920 affected by European Art Deco. Skyscraper style was built and architecture developed with racial characteristics. It has vertical and streamline form of typical Art Deco and strengthen geometrical motive in architectural expression. It appeared naturally and has the contrast of different material in material expression. It has effect on strong color as using highborn and brilliant color in color expression. They appeared chinese national spirit by using 'ot painting' in western oriented furniture. The purpose of such an examination is to classify, understand and validate Shanghai artistic and socio-cultural heritage in order to better appreciate the life philosophy of Shanghai and re-discover their basic roots. Though it began as a Western cultural movement, it is the purpose of this study to discover the inherent orientalism in its basic formative spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.117-134
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• 2010

The multilateral attempt for present applications of art school of thought and expression is leading modern fashion as a chapter of various artistic expression. In fashion, historic art thinking which predominated the period are source of optional inspiration not simply being generated, culminated and disappear but layout principles which can reemerge as periodical needs. In other words, the past styles are the source of inspiration of new trend of the present time and will serve as the text that give birth to yet another trend. In this study, I conducted the research on the layout principles of Modernism Architecture in aspects of pure visibility and the layout characteristics. And I analyzed cases of modern fashion which were appling architectural layout principles in the view point of formal construction dimension. As the result, the layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the characteristics of diagram linearity, geometric planarity and exclusive closing. And I was applying the architectural layout principles of Modernism to fashion. The layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the tendency of lacking history types, abstract plane partition and reductionism purity in fashion. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.763-780
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.

• KIEAE Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2016

Purpose: Since the 19th century many concrete models and theories for the ideal city had been proposed and in some way had affected on the ideal urban plans in the 20th century. Modern cities in the 20th century faced a total chaos, due to the world war and new social paradigm came from the development of technology. These social context leads us to be interested in ideal city. And two planned cities; Chandigarh, India and Brasilia, Brasil, are meaningful as the result of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century even though they completed just in part. Method: This study is focused on the characteristics of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century based on comparison with two realized cities. There are similarities and differences in their background, concept, and the characteristics of form and space. Result: First, both cities are required to make monumental and symbolic images by political issues. For this, Le Corbusier proposed the grid system for a metaphorical city and L. Costa defined the urban form with abstract axis for a mythological city. Second, the administrative districts in both cities are planned as symbolic places by formative buildings and their hierarchical arrangement. For neighbourhood unit 'Sector' in Chandigarh and 'Superquadras' in Brasilia are used for the neighbourhood unit respectively. Third, the car-oriented road system and urban environment by population overcrowding in tow cities are criticized in common. Consequently, as we can see, the modern ideal city in the early 20th century succeeds in making symbolic urban image, but exposes the limitation of sustainability.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.27
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• pp.31-57
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• 2012

The 19th century could not relatively receive attention from local researchers because it was treated as the past cut off from the present as the formative period of modern states of Latin America. According to the characteristics of area studies which focus on changes of politics and society, studies on past affairs could not have been the main focus of attention. But as new liberalism has appeared in Latin America, is throwing the spotlight on liberalism. In addition, the studies on the 19th century have been activated and gradually expanded. And interpretation about the 19th century's history has been variously arranged. Especially, discussion on liberalism and conservatism was established as the key words which can understand and reconsider Latin America in the 19th century. Colombian liberalism which could not overcome heritage of the colonial period in the 19th century and did appear advocating reformation was another form of authoritarianism. Reformation promoted by liberalism was utilized to keep privilege of the ruling class, not to remove the social and economic structure derived from the colonial period. New reformist forces which advocated mercantilism after the middle of the 19th century but they were formed based on the existing system. Colombian Liberal Party was developed as "Another name of conservatization" by reflecting understanding of the conservatives. Colombian liberalists preferred federalism to cut off from repressive characteristics of Spanish colonial rule and secure autonomy of local control through reformation based on economic understanding. Therefore, discussion on the form of government which focused on federalism and centralism acted as the causes of conflict between Colombian liberalism and conservatism. Based on this point, this study tries to analyze liberalism reforms which is the main issue in the Colombian history in the 19th century and consider history of Colombian political conflicts focusing on federalism. The origin of Violencia which is the political violence and Colombian history in the 19th century which has been a series of rebellion can be considered through this procedure.

• Journal of agriculture & life science
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.21-32
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• 2011

This research is intended to study literatures relating to western rocking chairs style in early 20th century in order to provide basic data of designs for rockers of today in Korea and investigate characteristics of rocking chair from academic, formative and pragmatic perspectives. During the first half of 20th century, western rocking chairs (1925~1945) embodied actively the simple functionalism concept that furniture design must follow functionality considerations. Therefore, bare wood rocking chairs were without any surface decoration and tubular steel frame rocking chairs often included black leather upholstery in a bold attempt to express exposed structure. And the fact that tubular steel produced such lightweight furniture was crucial importance. Many Modernist designer created curvaceous lines of new pattern changes in their furniture. The structure of Modern rocking chair became all-important, for stylistic as well as functional reasons. Designers equated exposed structure of tubular steel and wooden frame with integrity and rationality and create an equalitarian style of design. Especially, designers in the early 20th century did use various brilliantly colored upholstery and wooden frame with simple forms of modern characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.71-82
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is , Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is , Elegance style period of 1930s is , and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of , , , . Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image, .