This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.
The objectives of this study are, first to define the concept of restaurant total coordination and establish its components as a design strategy for planning and managing all elements comprising a restaurant, and second, to survey the total coordination of Japanese restaurants in foreign countries and examine how traditionality, which is an element for globalizing Japanese restaurants, is expressed. This study was conducted through literature review for defining the concept of restaurant total coordination and extracting its components and a field survey for analyzing the current state of restaurant total coordination and traditionality expression methods. The results of this study are as follows. First, Japanese restaurants categorized into Type A with relatively high traditionality expression(3.3 or higher) were 25% of the surveyed restaurants. These restaurants showed the traditional characteristics of Japanese style as they are without contemporary adaptation for all components of restaurant. Second, 41.7% of the restaurants were categorized into Type B with traditionality expression between 1.7 and 3.3. They were mostly popular casual restaurants at which people can enjoy Japanese food comfortably. In visual and spatial design elements, traditional and contemporary styles appeared in the equal percentage, and decoration, table setting and food design were styled according to Japanese traditions. Third, 4 cases(33.3%) were categorized into Type C with traditionality expression below 1.7. Because they were fine dining restaurants that sold high priced dishes, formality and consistency were also high. Through all design elements including visual, spatial, table setting and food design elements, elegant and simple contemporary images were dominant. The results of this study will be used as basic materials to establish the concept of total coordination that views the visual, spatial, table setting and food design elements comprising a restaurant, which were approached separately in previous studies on restaurants, together from the viewpoint of integrative deigns, and to make design strategies for globalizing Korean restaurants based on Japanese restaurant cases.
Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
/
v.15
no.2
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pp.261-270
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2002
The use of ANN is appropriate to computerize the information and knowledge used in the preliminary design stage where it lacks of formality of representation of designers' experience and intuition. Considering that there exists very little design information in preliminary design stage to start with, the ANN model for this stage must be designed to have input much less than output. However, this situation usually causes various problems such as in teaming time, convergence and reliability of solutions. To address this problem, this paper proposes multi-level neural networks lot progressive structural design considering that all the design information can not be obtained at a time but we growing gradually. The use of multi-level networks developed in this paper has been proved its validity by applying it to the preliminary design of cable-stayed bridges.
The Korean have admired and lived with decorums through Jeol, a representative practical formality which expresses the decorums intensively. Jeol is the way of greeting native to Korea and an intangible culture close to Korean life style. To be remained as a culture, the traditional propriety Jeol should reconcile to the present life feflecting our history. On this viewpoint, the purpose of this research is to furnish the authority of the creative inheritance on the settlement of Jeol and other decorums suitable to the present. This research is consisted of 1) the study of the meaning of Jeol and 2) the hidtorical research through records. 'Jurye' is regarded as the oldest literature on the systematic explanation about Jeol and has been very often used down the ages. Jindong in 'Jurye' and Kodu in 'Karyejipram' are the same Jeol which expresses the grief in funeral rites. In 'Seonghosaseol', Abae which stands one knee is explained and investigated as the case of offense by the literature. And it is also interpreated as a Jeol with respect, while many other Jeol is to fall an both of kness, Abae is not performed generally. 'Yeki' has brief explanation about Kongsu Manner (to hold hands), Jeol between the king and minister, host and guest, Buinbae, Jeol in custom, wedding ceremony and funeral ceremony and Jeol in drinking manner. In 'Chunchukongyangjeon'. there is the explanation about Jeol of the minister who comes back after his duty to the king. 'Sunjajiphae' interprets Bae and Kyesang and informs that Kuesu is the most respectful Jeol only to the king, 'Seojeon' proves the Jeol habitually used in all kinds of ceremonies and etiquettes. 'Jeongbomunheonbigo' introduces the custom of Jeol in Shilla, Koguryo, Buyeo, Koryo eras by using literature and shows the commoness of both kneeling down generally. The result of this research has the meaning for the creation of life culture in the basis of the spirit 'Onkojisin'(reviewing the old and learning the new) by establishing the present Jeol with tradition.
This study was conducted to investigate effects of waterlogging on the growth, physiological responses, and yield of Kimchi cabbage. The growth of Kimchi cabbage with applied optimized air temperature (set to $20^{\circ}C$) was greater than those with high air temperature (set to $30^{\circ}C$) and the growth significantly decreased by severe waterlogging treatment. The net photosynthetic rate of outer leaves on one hour after waterlogging treatment was higher at 72 hours waterlogging treatment in $20^{\circ}C$ and lower at 24 hours of waterlogging treatment in $30^{\circ}C$. The root activity was decreased by the elevation of waterlogging periods in $20^{\circ}C$ treatment and lower by the short of waterlogging periods in $30^{\circ}C$ treatment. The ratio of formality with non-waterlogging treatment was approximately 64% under $20^{\circ}C$ air temperature and that of range was from 16 to 30% under $30^{\circ}C$. The yield under $20^{\circ}C$ showed higher than that under high air temperature. The non-waterlogging treatment in $20^{\circ}C$ had 4,463 kg/10a, which was the greatest among all treatments, while yields of non-waterlogging treatment at $30^{\circ}C$ were significantly low as 1,082 kg/10a. Results suggested that additional drainage work should be needed to overcome waterlogged conditions of open field during heavy rainfall and should be drainage as soon as possible if there are waterlogging.
In this paper, proposes Kerberos certification mechanism that improve certification service of PKINIT base that announce in IETF CAT Working Ggroup. Did to certificate other realm because search position of outside realm through DNS and apply X.509 directory certification system, acquire public key from DNS server by chain (CertPath) between realms by certification and Key exchange way that provide service between realms applying X.509, DS/BNS of PKINIT base. In order to provide regional services, Certification and key exchange between realms use Kerberos' symmetric method and Session connection used Directory service to connection X.509 is designed using an asymmetric method. Excluded random number ($K_{rand}$) generation and duplex encryption progress to confirm Client. A Design of Kerberos system that have effect and simplification of certification formality that reduce Overload on communication.
Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.
The purpose of this thesis is to make an effective Korean Hip Hop culture and suggest a new style direction in classifying the types of fashion styles of the Hip Hop musicians and studying their features. They are surveyed in stage costumes, hair styles, make-ups, accessaries, and total fashion styles, and then classified into Normal Hip Hop Style, Casual Hip Hop Style, Sporty Hip Hop Style, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style, and Classical Hip Hop Style. The results of the study are as follows: First, Normal Hip Hop Style is the most general and universal Hip Hop fashion type. They wear clothes in bigger sizes and exaggeratively. And also a cornrow hair style, a tattoo, and a piercing represent marked individualities. Second, Casual Hip Hop Style is more active and practical than Normal Hip Hop Style. Their blue jeans and T-shirts express more simple and polished style. And also they make variable fashion styles and hair styles such as a cornrow hair and a buzz cut. Third, Sporty Hip Hop Style is from B-boy's clothes when they do active and violent break dancing. As NBA basketball games are popular, they wear training clothes, breeches, big T-shirts, and jumpers & caps on embroidered sport team's names. Their hair style is short or natural and also they have caps or hoods to present active mood. Fourth, Mix & Match Hip Hop Style is existed variable elements in one style. The typical type of this style is jacket & blue jean. It is characterized by dress shirts, neck ties, blue jeans, sneakers, beards, and moustaches. Fifth, Classical Hip Hop Style is from African Americans. They try to express assimilated appearance of Anglo-Saxons. They wear black suits, shoes, hats, and sunglasses to represent formality and elegance. In the above results, there are variable fashion styles in one Hip Hop music genre and also fashion style is changed with musical inclination. This thesis is an important guide to produce variable and creative Hip Hop fashion styles in Korean Hip Hop culture.
The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.19
no.3
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pp.397-415
/
1995
The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.
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