Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.10
no.1
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pp.55-68
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2008
This study is aiming to set a characteristic design and a fashion trend by analyzing hat style trends and fashion images shown in fashion collections in recent seven years. Also, based on the result of the analysis on the five world's major collections, the influence and the interrelation of hat and fashion image were analyzed. The study was performed by the context analysis method and the image evaluation method. In the context analysis method, the 1,391 pictures for hat-styles which were believed to be the standard of fashion style from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were analyzed. The research is summarized as follows. Based on the result of the fashion collections, the kinds of hats came Bowler, Beret, Cloche, Capeline, Cap and Hood in order, and Casual, Feminine, Natural, Formal, Romantic, and Mannish came in order for the case of the fashion images for putting on a hat. The result of the analysis on the characteristic of fashion design according to the kinds of hats, the casual image, with highest frequency, was found from all of the kinds except Capeline. Bowler and Cloche were conspicuous in jackets/slacks, Capeline was conspicuous in one-piece shape, and cloth silhouette showed the highest frequency in H type. As for Bowler, the color of cloth and hat was mostly black, and as for Beret and Cloche, achromatic color showed the highest frequency. But as for Capeline, the cloth color, including chromatic color, was various. As for Beret, pattern and material image were various comparatively, but as for other kinds of hats, there were the materials with no pattern and with hard material image.
The purpose of this study was to classify male consumer groups according to the fashion lifestyle, to examine characteristics, needs and wants of each group, and to find out differences of cosmetics purchasing behavior among each group segment. After surveying 19-50 year old males by making a visit to college, company and home, 584 samples were analyzed by using SPSS(7.0) package program. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, crosstabs and $X^2-test$ were used to analyse collected data. The results of this study were as follows; 1. Twenty-two questionnaires using AIO fashion lifestyle variables produced seven factors; oriented fashion, flaunting brand preference, active preference, information intention, strong personality, reasonable economy and others directivity. Three groups based on oriented seven factors: personality, fashion and economy. 2. The Personality group had strong personal characters in their fashion. Men in this group prefer casual style and were represented by singles and professionals in their 30's. The fashion group pursued fashion trends, formal wears, and high-priced fashions. They were represented by singles with high-income managerial positions in their 19-29 age group. The economy group represented the largest sample in this study(54.5%). Men in this group tended to purchase fashion goods during of good fabrics at discount stores. This group represented married man with average incomes in their 40's. 3. Each of these three groups showed significant differences in cosmetics purchasing behavior. The personality group mainly purchased cosmetics on-line market because of price. The Internet tended to be their primary source of informations. They spent under 10,000won and pursued a simple and clear image. The fashion group purchased cosmetics at department stores to benefit from the knowledge of sales personal and their source of informations in the mass media. They spent over 70,000won monthly and pursued also a simple and clear image. The economy group purchased cosmetics at discount stores because of their wide assortment of products. They spent under 30,000won monthly and pursued a simple and clear image. Each of these groups currently consume different products and have a different concept of future cosmetic products.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.
This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.
Recently, there is a new issue, among the contemporary people, for new life style, such as green design and well being. This trend brought up the necessity that there should be alternatives for interior spatial design. In order to catch up with these new issues, the new convenient and environment friendly methods are in need. Space composition using setting-up is skill that can express both the structural aspect and esthetic because it represents traditional beauty into the contemporary age through the structural rigidity and formal beauty. Also the lumber, as main materials for setting up, is in line with well being life style and environment friendliness. The construction of structure by setting-up has advantages in terms of the reuse and the convenience in that the construction of structure is adjustable according to environment. And setting-up has enough plasticity not only because of its own role as linking the objects but also because of being framed by itself. Therefore setting-up will be a design element, if it is expressed outward. Thus, this study aims to give a guide line about how to apply the result from the evaluating that "what is the most suitable setting-up" and "what is the most suitable detail setting-up", based on that structural rigidity, decorativeness and the ease of works. As a result of evaluation, the most excellent types of setting-up in terms of structural rigidity are "Jangbu" and "Panjae" and "Yeongui". The most excellent types of setting-up in terms of decorativeness are "Panjae" and "Yeongui", and the most excellent type of the ease of work is "Mat". And also the most applicable detail setting-up for the utilization of spatial composition is proposed.
This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.
The purpose of this study is to provide empirical basic data to develop public uniforms design, by understanding international universality and advanced design sense, through the analysis of public uniforms design at home and abroad. The theoretical study reviewed the character and area of public design, and the concepts and requirements of public uniforms. The empirical study analyzed public uniform design at home and abroad, focusing on typical public uniforms, such as police, fire fighter, and street cleaner. The results of this study were as follows. First, the police uniform has a standardized and formal suit style, which consists of a single-breasted dk-PB jacket with a notched collar and pants. It uses PB as the main color, to show their authority and role reliability. Epaulet or badge, which represents belonging and difference in rank, are attached to express the identity of an organization. Second, the fire fighter uniform consists of a hip length coat with a stand collar effective for heat shielding, and straight pants with flap pockets, in which it is easy to put things. Its main color is dkg-PB, to mitigate visual fatigue and enhance comfort, and an accent color scheme is used, to effectively raise visual attention and safety. Finally, the street cleaner uniform has a casual style, which consists of a jumper with a shirt collar and pants for high activity. v-YR and R with high chroma is mainly used, for increased attention during day and night work, to stress safety.
The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.
The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social and economic influence of the elderly population has been also increasing. A elderly people become more interested in their appearance and clothing than before, clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. The objectives of the research are to explore the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, clothing satisfaction, and clothing design preference of 416 women aged 55 years and older were residents of Seoul. Data were gathered through survey using a self-administered questionnaire from November, 1994 to January, 1995 in 8 senior schools and 3 senior centers which were scattered in Seoul. Descriptive statistics, t-test, and factor analysis were used in analysing the data. The results of this study indicated that life satisfaction have a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The respondents were divided into tow groups by life satisfaction. The higher life satisfaction group preferred skits and formal wear to the lower. But, two groups did not show any significant differences in terms of the colo preference, motif preference, and fabric preference. The result of factor analysis divided appearance satisfaction into body satisfaction and face satisfaction. Body satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. And the group of lower physical satisfaction showed lower satisfaction in apparel fitness. Also the face satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The group of higher physical satisfaction preferred skirts and foraaml wear compared to that of lower physical satisfaction. The color preference and motif preference between two groups showed no significant difference. And the group of higher physical satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. Also, the group of higher ace satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. However, there was no significant difference in the color preference and motif preference between tow groups. The findings of this study amy contribute to knowledge about clothing satisfaction and preference of elderly women in Seoul since there have been few studies, and be useful to apparel manufacturers as well s clothing researchers. Also, research subjects of this study could be extended to aged men and various regions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.2
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pp.379-390
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2005
Every Society has it's own ideology and lifestyle and these form its unique aesthetic experience or values. In the paper observing recent, especially in 1980s and 1990s. Korean street fashion that is one way of expressing their values and lifestyle, the aesthetic values related to the morality have been studied. Through the studies using the cafes of Korean street fashion style we can understand the change of morality and fashion style according to the change of socio-cultural environments more deeply. For study methods documentary study and case study were executed. Morality related clothing were defined in detail through documentary studies and for analysis of street fashion from 1980s and 1990s the cases from 'Mut' and 'Ceci' magazines as well as the articles from Chosunilbo, Dongailbo and Maeilkyungje were looked over one by one. By understanding the intrinsic meanings and formal features of resent Korean street fashion, the direction for future fashion designing could be guided, which could satisfy consumers' needs in the rapidly changing world situation. Followings are the results of the study. First, morality of clothing could be defined in detail regarding modesty and extravagance. Modesty could be directly related to exposure of body and norms for appearances and extravagance to fashion oriented, luxury goods or brand name oriented and spending. Second, the exposing body has been accepted and permitted by public even with criticism more easily but they were less generous to values about norms regarding clothing. Third, the change of morality related to modest has happened earlier than the change of morality related to extravagance, which has begun very recently in 2000s.
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