• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.620-625
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• 2017

In this study, the dyeing conditions(temperature, time, concentration) are changed from various conditions on wool fabrics by using corydalis tuber extract in order to develop new natural dyes. The purpose of this study is to improve the dyeability, color fastness, and functionality and to derive optimal dyeing conditions by comparing and analyzing the changes of K/S values and surface color by dyeing pH changes, mordant method, and mordant type. As a result of the experiment, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool fabrics is shown dyeing temperature:$80^{\circ}C$, dyeing time:90min, dyeing concentration:100%. The dyeability by pH variants of corydalis tuber extract indicates that K/S values is higher alkaline than acidic. The mordant method of corydalis tuber extract showed pre-mordant has high K/S values. In terms of color fastness, marked improvement has not been shown despite of mordant treatment on wool fabrics. In particular, color change of color fastness to washing, color fastness to light indicates the low fastness. In addition, the functionality such as antibacterial activities and deodorization can be given at dyeing with corydalis tuber extract thus it is expected to be applied to underwear or apparel products for the elderly and infirm and children with weak skin that required high functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.15-34
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• 2006

Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.106-118
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• 2009

This research is about the changes in the images of Bond and Bond Girl in '007' Series. And it examined through the social background of England from 1960s to 2000s and the costume in the film. The results were as follows: As the era of young fashion was opened after 1960, there was a big change, but Bond was expressed as a hero who had strong male chauvinism of the English aristocratic circles. However, after 1990s, he wore comfortable clothes and he underwent all sorts of hardships. On the other hand, Bond Girl had the image of a sexual target. However, after 1990s, she had sharp appearance and smart brain. Besides, she had professional ideas of a given work and she was changed into a healthy image. Second, Bond's job was an English secrete agent, but Bond Girl had no particular job in 1960s. In 1980s, various professional jobs appeared and in 1990s and 2000s, the professional job which was directly related with Bond's duties appeared. Third, Bond's upper class image was expressed by tuxedo, suit, black, gray, navy, beige, brown, and ivory. His hair was 2:8 parting or Dandy all black style produced his dignified and neat image. After 1990s, he often had casual dress, which created a comfortable image. Bond Girl was expressed feminine style by bikini, underwear, long dress, sky-blue, violet, black, simple costume. After 1990s, she wore a suite, one-piece, or a combat uniform, which showed her professionalism. especially Bond Girl's red dress was used as a psychological color to express temptation, enemy, and betray.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.120-129
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.422-428
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• 2018

In this study, we developed honeycomb pads using foam and polymer gel and verified the impact protection performance of pads for the development of a fall protection pants for elderly women aged 65 and over who have a high risk of fracture due to falls. The results are as follows; In the first experiment, the impact protection performance was evaluated for four honeycomb pad samples (CR foam, EPDM foam, hardness 15 polymer gel, and hardness 30 polymer gel) manufactured to a thickness of 5 mm using a single material. When the force of about 10757N was applied to the specimens, all four pads reduced the impact force to 3100N or less. Polymer gels showed better protection than foam materials. In the second experiment, the thickness of the protective pad was set to 8 mm in order to improve the shock absorbing performance of the protective pad. As a result of evaluating the impact protection performance of the foam single pad and foam gel composite pad, the impact absorbing performance of the foam single pad was better. Finally, four kinds of protection pads were made by assigning the foam single pad and the foam gel composite pad to pants type and underwear type respectively. The pad thickness of the main protection area was set to 8 mm to enhance the protection, and gradually decreased to 5mm and 3mm toward the edge to improve the appearance and fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1087-1098
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to conduce the survey of three groups of college women living in different residential districts, Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and a district, each other, analyze the actual condition of wearing blue jeans, comparative investigate actual condition in each residential district of wearing blue jeans and cognition by change of crotch length and trend through comparison of cognition on dressed blue jeans with short crotch length. By which investigation, it was intended to understand their condition and propose of blue jeans as may offer fit with short crotch length. As the result of this study, it presented college women had hipbone blue jeans in order of $2\sim3$ and more than 4 in all of residential districts, they purchased hipbone blue jeans with crotch length in order of for middle crotch(23 cm) and short crotch(21cm) commonly in all of residential districts, and they care a lot for exposing back waist and hip of hipbone blue jeans without reference to residential district. They had a bad feeling for exposure, and as an alternative to deal with this, they answered mostly on 'wearing hipbone underwear' or 'wearing long upper garment', and there was significant difference between residential districts in silhouette and exterior fitness of crotch length among important factors when wearing hipbone blue jeans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.399-416
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate students' satisfaction with, perceived ease of movement of, and perceived fit of high school girls' uniforms according to the uniform design. "P" high school, with a one-piece dress-type uniform, and "H" high school, with a two-piece type uniform, were selected for this study. Sixty-five female students from each school participated in the study. The questionnaire was composed of 21 questions about the school uniforms' purchase behavior, design, fit, ease of movement, and modification and participants' demographic information. Students from both schools were generally satisfied with the uniform design. However, in the open-ended response section, many "P" high school students responded that the fact that the one-piece dress pulled up when sitting or raising the hand made it uncomfortable. On the other hand, "H" high school students responded that the skirt was uncomfortable, because it left the body or underwear exposed when the wind blew due to the many pleats in the skirt. In the assessment of the ease of movement, "P" high school students were more likely to describe the uniform as uncomfortable than "H" high school students. Many students responded that they modified their school uniforms, and the length of the skirt and one-piece dress was the main part that was modified. This study suggests that growing female high school students are unsatisfied with the school uniforms' design and fit. Additionally, the perceived fit and satisfaction levels depend on the uniform design.