• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.133-148
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• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2002

The Traditional Look, a class of fashion, represents image based on British aristocratic authenticity and cultural heritage as unchangeable and lasting classic fashion style. And recently, it keeps up with the trend of modern and young consumers' desire by putting various images. The purpose of the study is to investigate the concept, image and present market condition and to analyze degree of consumers' brand awareness of Traditional brand in pursuit of developing new market and ensuring power between competitive brands. From above work, surveyed on degree of brand awareness and interest, preference, associable image and purchase factors coming from consumers. 606 data were analyzed with SPSS package. Frequency, Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Multiple response, and correlation were applied. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Traditional brand has a high degree at consumers' brand awareness but comparatively lower at interest in it. In band name, while the Burberry has the highest brand awareness, the Polo and the Hunt take first and second position in a purchasing rate. Brand preference has tendency to be concentrated on certain brands showing the outstanding highest degree like the Polo in the 20s, and the Burberry in the 50s in aspect of age structure. 2. In associable image of Traditional brand, it is associate with noble image as dignified, classical and intellectual with itself strongly among practical, individuality, confidential and noble image. 3. As the purchase factors of traditional brand products, it depends on mainly the reliability and esthetic factors like design and quality rather than ostentatious and practical factors. 4. Associable image except individuality image is correlated with the purchase factors of traditional brand.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.5-13
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• 2004

This study was performed to investigate the characteristics of denim pants preferred by Korean women in their 20's through the analysis of the sensory test(appearance) and garment space length. Four kinds of ready-made denim pants of national and licensed brand on sale in Korea were used as the experimental garment. The results were as follows: 1. The significant difference among brands were found in the appropriateness of ease in the part of waist belt(front), knee (front), ankle(back) and the total silhouette. 2. In the analysis of garment space length. the significant difference among brands was shown in waist belt part $(FL60^{\circ})$, hip $(FL0^{\circ},\;FL30^{\circ})$, crotch(SRR) and knee(BR60^{\circ}). However, total average was not significant difference. 3. According to analysis of pattern size, the brand N was out of balance in crotch depth and girth. by which it can be said that N got the lowest score in sensory test (appearance). On the other hand, Brand GU was large in circumference with short crotch length. 4. Therefore, the most preferred denim pants pattern of Korean women in their 20's was fit in waist belt. hip. crotch circumference and a little bit tight in crotch depth and length. As the design was limited as straight style. more design and brands must be included for future study.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.111-130
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.104-119
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• 2012

Fashion cultural products represents cultural trend, and they are produced a lot in Korea to express the Korean culture and style. They are also tools that embody images of Korea. This study mainly focuses on the Korean traditional-patterned ornaments as fashion cultural products. Therefore, this study aims at developing a framework of consumers' attitudes and consumption behaviors about Korean traditional-patterned ornaments, examining how the characteristics are changed according to shopping orientation. For this purpose, a quantitative survey was carried out using 455 questionnaires from women in their 20s and over. The data were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, cluster analysis, and $x^2$-test. Findings of this study were as follows. First, half of the respondents were found to possess Korean traditional-patterned ornaments. However, consumers had positive attitudes and tend to purchase them for their own use rather than gifts, demonstrating that the potential for the market is large enough. Second, in accordance with their shopping orientation, consumers were sub-divided into four groups: trend/brand oriented, practicality/pleasure oriented, convenience oriented, and passive shoppers. The trend/brand oriented group showed highest levels of preference regarding purchase intentions of Korean traditional-patterned ornaments. This group also showed the strongest purchasing power on fashion items among the four groups. Third, this study presented animal, plant, geometric and abstract patterns to the respondents to examine their attitudes. It was found that consumers prefered plant-patterned ornaments rather than the others, demonstrating that they have stronger preference and purchase intention toward ornaments with more natural images.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.149-165
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• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2012

This study is aimed at finding out the self-perception and value of clothing they wear to today's businessmen who work in a fast-growing global network society and for developing a suitable image consulting program for businessmen. The purpose of this study is to categorize businessmen into personality types, and then analyzing purchase behaviors for clothing and image perception, self-image satisfaction among categorized groups. The participants of this study are 320 businessmen who are from 20's to 50's and working in Seoul. A total of 302 questionnaires were used for the survey of this study. The questionnaire is composed of 3 different parts as follows: 1) personality types, 2) purchase behaviors for clothing and image perception, 3) self-image satisfaction. The methods of this study are frequency analysis, descriptive analysis, factor analysis, variance analysis, cluster analysis, t-test and reliability analysis. In conclusion, an image consulting education program for businessmen has to be based on one's own personality type, current fashion style and image perception. Each person has to be provided a unique direction to increase his self satisfaction, which will result in improvements in both personal image satisfaction and social satisfaction. These changes will ultimately become the driving force of career life.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.266-274
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• 2004

This study is on the sensitive image of pattern expressed in the color & formative types of traditional Jokakbo(scraps of cloth). The object of this research is Korean traditional scraps of cloth in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. This study is to be classified into 10 formative types like square type 1, square type 2, diagonal type, diamond type, many color striped type, concentric circle type, pinwheel type, vertical line type, cintamani pattern type, and free style type to apply the design of Jokakbo to Korean design. And color group is divided into vivid tone and pale tone. And it constitutes 17 patterns from the combination of these two types. As for the factors of constitution of scraps of cloth, it consists of factors like revelation, attraction, temperature sense, abstract, and rigidity. In the emotional image in the patterns, both vivid tone and pale tone showed dynamic and warm emotion together. Also, the factors of revelation and attraction were evaluated as opposite images, and it evaluated the plain and dim emotion as more attractive emotion. They preferred the pale tone to the vivid tone. They preferred the cintamani pattern in the vivid tone, and the diamond pattern in the pale tone most. From the research result above, this study made the abstract image of scraps of cloth standardized and prepared for a basis to execute it essentially. This research will be used as basic data to make traditional Korean image spotlighted in the world fashion markets as well as it will be helpful to the development of pattern design for the scraps of cloth essentially.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2002

The following paper deals with the interaction between an Austrian art trend from the late 19th century until World War I, the Vienna Separatist Movement, and the Vienna Workshop dress and its ornaments in part designed by the artists belonging to the former mentioned school. Gustav Klimt′s paintings along with his photographs and pictures and articles published in the "Wiener Mode" magazine were subject of analysis. The focus was on Klimt′s paintings with female themes whereby a comparative analysis was made between the development of the forms, hues and ornaments of clothing and the style of paintings at that time. The whole development was classified into three phases. The first period from 1897∼1905 marks the birth of the Vienna Separatists along with the clothing reform movement. The heyday of the Separatists represents the second phase from 1906∼1913 and the decline of the very school and the Vienna Workshop period lasts from 1913∼1918. Refromed dresses were started to be recognized as alternatives, from 1897 when the Separatists started to gain foot until 1o05, and Kimt and Van de Velde published designs that were comfortable and elegant. From 1906 to 1913 the expressionism and Reform Mode of the Vienna artists started to flourish. But during the War the Separatist Movement, which triggered the modernazation of Vienna declined and instead the decorative art of Vienna Workshops started to develop. The asymmetric design of the dress, exotic patterns, shades of complementary colors and reformed clothing were frequently used by Kimt and other Separatists. This is an instance where fashion design directly influenced art and different branches can reflect the same aesthetic standards within the same time frame.