• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.145-146
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.156-170
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• 2012

These days, fashion museums that were established during the 60~70s in advanced countries are spiritedly planning opportune exhibitions as well as opening collections and accumulated research materials to the public. They are also publishing innovative visual references and offering various educational programs. They play a crucial role in speeding up the development of creativity of fashion designers by accumulating archives through analytic researches. Since Korea has applied western fashion for over a century, now is the time to make a fundamental long-term plan for establishing the identity of Korean fashion by gathering and classifying the history of a century. Thus, the aim of this study is to reach a conclusion to construct fashion museum in Korea to discover as well as develop fashion talents and eventually enhancing national competitiveness. First, the theoretical study on the history and the functions of fashion museum were analysed. 'The collection & exhibition' in the common thread is one function of the fashion museum. Another function is 'the research', which includes accumulations, classification and record of materials in a particular point of view. It also includes publishing catalogues with temporary exhibitions and open management to the scholars and the designers. 'The communication', which is enacted through various educational programs and events for inflow of new visitors, is the other function of fashion museum. The current state of fashion museums in advanced countries and Korea were also analysed. Korean public museums only owned traditional collections while public fashion museums in other advanced countries usually owned collection of the past and the present together. The only contemporary fashion museum in Korea is run private which leads to many problems. Finally, The study went further to suggest the advanced model of fashion museum in Korea based on the research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.704-717
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• 2015

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the $21^{st}$ century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.91-100
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of check dresses shown in collections from 2011 to 2014 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of block check dresses. The results of this study are as follows: 1) 120 check dresses shown in collections were composed of 57 straight silhouette dresses, 38 fitted silhouette dresses, 23 hourglass silhouette dresses, 1 barrel silhouette dress, and 1 atypical silhouette dress. And check pattern mostly used in the current collections a square pattern of block check, tartan check that is a Scotch traditional lattice pattern, a small lattice pattern of gingham check, over check that other check patterns are arranged on check pattern, star-shaped hound tooth check, glen check mixing small pattern and big pattern. The visual image for check dress differs according to changes in the check pattern and silhouette of the dress. 2) Main expressional words of visual images for block check dresses differ greatly depending on the silhouette of dresses. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'graphic', 'simple', 'hard', 'modern' for straight silhouette of block check dresses. The words of 'lively', 'girlish', 'feminine', 'cute' are ranked for hourglass silhouette of block check dresses. And the words of 'confident', 'feminine', 'modern' are marked down for fitted silhouette of block check dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.153-169
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• 2017

The rapid growth of the Korean fashion industry has contributed greatly to the establishment of various fashion associations that have appeared since the 1960s. Seoul Fashion Week celebrated its 20th anniversary; there is now a crucial opportunity for the role of Korean fashion associations to the world's top five fashion collections. This study examines and compares the various roles of Korean fashion associations and the fashion associations of France, Italy, USA, and UK. Based on the comparison results, suggestions for the roles of Korean fashion associations are as follows. The following three roles are important in both Korean and foreign associations: stable operation of collections, the creation of various funds to support fashion designers, and foster new designers through linkage with the education programs for textiles and design. Mutual cooperation among various associations is essential to achieve future goals. The specific activities of foreign associations are highly suggestive for direction. In addition to the pursuit of members' rights, it is also desirable to conduct various social activities. It is necessary to create various events that ordinary citizens and students can enjoy in addition to achieving the goal of promoting and selling products at the Seoul Fashion Week. In order to overcome various difficult situations facing Korea and to prepare for a great leap forward for the fashion industry, Korean fashion associations should spare no effort to overcome mutually conflicting interests and understand other perspectives from a macro perspective.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.163-175
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• 2010

This study is a part of the integrated investigation of the design of Yves Saint Laurent, and aims at examining the background of the appearance of art inspiration which the artistic quality and originality are particularly seen. And also, I would like to examine the source of the power that transcends periods, dealing with issues in the design. From the mid 1960 to 1970, Yves Saint Laurent who leaded the global fashion trend, displayed the Art Inspiration works with the innovation of fashion in Paris, rediscovery of the trends and colors in Modern Art, and background of Entourage and so forth. He brought in the various artistic genres to the fashion, and his Haute Couture collections which were created by the passion for the movie and theater art, expressed the freedom through his strong identity in the Modern Art & Culture and the atmosphere of that period. Eventually his works are reappeared transcending the generations as the fundamental power of Modernity, through the restricted line of his own, strong contrast of colors, and insight for the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.123-140
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• 2007

Fashion magazine advertising is the most excellent source of information in predicting the fashion trend. It plays a pivotal role in setting a direction for the fashion trend in the upcoming season. The purpose of this study was to review by photos of the $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$ collection shown in LONDON, NEW YORK, MILAN, and PARIS during 2002-2006 A/W and 2003-2005 S/S seasons, being focused on such fashion items published as coat, dress, one-piece, two-pieces(jacket+skirt/pants, blouse+skirt/pants). In the results of this study, designers presented coat(n=144) chiefly, blouse+pants(n=29) were presented few during 2002-2003 A/W seasons. During 2003-2004 A/W seasons one-piece(n=156) was looking bullish, blouse+pants(n=34) were declining. Dress(n=149) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=17) was presented few during 2004-2005 A/W seasons. During 2005-2006 A/W seasons coat(n=180) was revived, blouse+pants(n=26) were presented lowly. Therefore designers presented coat(n=605, 28.4%) extremely much during 2002-2006 A/W seasons. Designers presented one-piece(n=109) much, jacket+pants(n=22) were presented few in 2003 S/S. In 2004 S/S seasons one-piece(n=167) was presented vastly different than jacket+pants(n=42). Also one-piece(n=152) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=48) was presented few in 2005 S/S seasons. During 2003-2005 S/S seasons one-piece(n=428, 28.2%) was presented most. And designers in these four world fashion centers didn't prefer blouse+pants in A/W seasons and jacket+pants in S/S seasons. Based on the above findings, it could be confirmed that the fashion items trend was almost similar among the four collections of $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$. The results of this study suggest that the fashion collections are the most reliable information sources for fashion product planning. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will provide for some useful basic data for domestic fashion businesses in producing fashion items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to examine various types and characteristics of masks and to consider what meanings they have in the recent fashion world. To this end, this study attempts to reflect on the internal meaning of masks exhibited in fashion designers' collections rather than functional meanings. It has an implication; in that it tries to help understand the expressive needs for variety and freshness pursued by modern fashion and use the unique design development to understand the internal meanings of masks. It, therefore, examines the existing domestic and foreign literature and data about masks from a theoretical perspective, and also attempts to draw findings from the data of fashion collections which have been held since the 2000s, as well as from literature research based on books about fashion and various other media. The meanings of masks in the field of fashion are as follows: First, they express identity, by criticizing the couture fashion, through the fashion. Second, they present a new concept of body, showing an illogical and ambiguous identity in which both feminine and masculine images coexist. Third, they are media externally communicating insights about human beings' inner world, through which various messages are transferred to modern people who are attached to external appearances, and the identities possessed by designers are revealed by the masks. Fourth, they ask about a boundary between gender and sexuality, as a means to make us concentrate on the important social issue, while expressing various and new identities, like the hybrid identity. In other words, they can be found to be used as effective media in communicating fashion massages intended by fashion experimental and creative designers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.163-177
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• 2009

In this study, the characteristics of headwear design by John Galliano's collections had been placed under the interpreting the immanent characteristics of presented in external things. His headwear design was found to have following characteristics; ethnic forms, historical forms, natural modeling forms, artifical forms, false hair forms and abstract forms. And his headwear design was found to have folling immanent characteristics; expaned exaggeration, introduced into existing form and reconstruction, mixed with different motives, change of texture, introducing and parody by natural and artifical form, pure abstacted construction. Furthermore, it can be identified that immanent characteristics and external things are mutually linked.