• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.45-56
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• 2013

This study researches functional arrangements for colors of work clothes - concentrating on the arrangements of lightness - for safety protection of workers at the job sites in the mechanical industry. To conduct such study, blue color (5PB) is selected for the CAD simulations on six arrangements of brightness based on two colors. The brightness ranges are of 5PB color (between 3~7.5) which are measurable by Munsell Conversion, and arrangements on lightness consisting of one arrangement of high lightness-gap, two of medium lightness-gap, and three of low lightness-gap. To analyze the data of color values after applying arrangements of lightness and to evaluate the levels of awareness regarding arrangements, the NCS colorimetric is being applied. Color palettes are based on the NCS notations, and then marked with color triangles. After evaluation, the visibility proves to be high when the arrangements contain high lightness at the top and bottom, and the arrangements with higher lightness-gap show higher effects in safety. Since this study tends to check factors of lightness, the other color factors were limited. Therefore, in order to apply these results at the job sites, integrated applications of such results will be very useful for developing safe working clothes in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.303-309
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• 2006

This study intended to compare and analyze marking efficiencies of basic slacks, based on different cloth and production conditions, the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces and the direction for marking deployment and proposed an efficient marking method. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marking efficiencies increased with increasing cloth widths. In the case of small number of marking pieces, the efficiency increased with increasing cloth widths, while, for large number of marking pieces, there was no differences in the efficiency with the cloth widths. From the result of the comparison of the marking efficiencies with the number of marking pieces, it was shown that, in the case of small cloth width, the efficiency increased considerably with increasing number of marking pieces, while, in the case of large cloth width over two markers, there was no distinct effect of the number of markers on the marking efficiency. Thought there were some differences of the marking efficiencies with the marker directions, bi-direction marker was the most efficient marker, followed by one-direction for each size marker and one-direction marker.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.213-227
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• 2023

To analyze the status and needs of the small- and medium-sized garment manufacturing industry in Busan, this study comprised an online survey of companies and interviews with 14 representatives of the 98 companies. The results are as follows: Approximately 34.7% of the garment manufacturers were located in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. The most common type of work was the contracting factory type. Daily production output was between 100pcs and 300pcs. Production materials comprised 42.9% woven and 24.8% knitted fabrics. Main products were menswear, uniforms, womenswear, casual wear, sports and leisure wear, protective clothes, and children's clothing. The main clients were uniform companies, main factories, wholesale markets, online shopping malls and promotion companies, exporters, and department stores. As a result of a survey on industrial needs with company representatives, their satisfaction with company employees was 57.2%, and the most important factor when hiring employees was job-related competencies, among which the ability to understand the sewing process was the most necessary. In terms of computer software literacy, illustrations and pattern CAD/CAM are required. They thought industry-university cooperation is crucial for advantage for advantage research and product development, as it allows for the sharing knowledge, resources, and especially human resources. The greatest administrative issue were human resources and funding.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.966-971
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• 2011

This study is designed to develop programs that analyze the distance of clothes from human skin and cross-sectional body figures based on 3D human body scan data, and to verify accuracy and efficiency of the program so that it can be used for clothing fit evaluation and 3D human body research. The auto cross-sectional imaging program was developed by using Visual C++ and OpenGL, and the 3D human body scan data were adopted to measure the space between skin and clothing. The space measurements were obtained by two widely used programs, RapidForm and AutoCAD, and a program devised by the researchers of this study. Measuring time and space measurements from different programs were compared in order to verify accuracy and efficiency of the newly-devised program. As a result, no significant difference was found in the measurements. However, the required time to measure one cross section was different within the significance level of 0.05, and the differences become more remarkable as the number of measuring and the angle of space between skin and clothing increase. Therefore, the program developed by this study is expected to be useful for research on body shapes and fit evaluation based on 3D human body scan data in the fashion field.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.99-107
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• 2004

In a field of clothing fashion design within the country, CADs and diagraming programs are existed variously. However, Connection of producton line through the worksheet is insufficient. This research implement design and worksheet system grafted on database system. This system can be completed desige through the fashion design system and made out worksheet at the same time. Also, It is possible that designer utilize more quickly and easily find intend to use the data because this system provide retrieval function for existed data with user. A special feature of the system is easy interface(GUI) for user, support of tool for detail, utilize for stored data, printing support for off-line output, comfortable framework for record of clothes size and etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.1052-1063
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the current development of Quick Response (QR) system and to identify factors related to QR adoption. A random sample of 250 apparel manufactures were selected from the Korean apparel manufacturers' list Response rate was 41% (m=102) A mail questionnaire was used to investigate the purpose of the study. ANOVAs and Duncan's multiple range tests were used. The results are as follows: 1. The most frequently used technologies were small lot orders and CAD and the least used technology is the electronic order system, 2. Firm size product characteristics(product category fashion change) and CEO's age were significantly related to the usage level of QR technologies.