• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
• /
• v.35 no.5
• /
• pp.107-116
• /
• 2019

Non-geometric shapes in contemporary architecture was explained from the transcendental schema of Deleuze with his abstraction theory. In this explanation, the intensity, the movement and change and the sublime were suggested as the expressional elements of the transcendental abstraction related with the artistic sensation of architecture. First, the intensity as a power of sensation which acts to the body before the recognition of brain is mainly expressed with the movement of curved lines of architectural space. Second, the movement of change is expressed as the de-centralized and de-formalized nomadic curve as the line in architectural 'smooth space' which has unrestrained orientations. Third, the sublime is expressed in the hugeness, enormousness or sometimes uncanny in void space, which could be contradictively mixed with senses of displeasure and pleasure. The sublime feelings in architecture can be emerging by rationally overcoming the unpleasant senses of contradictive spaces in architecture or urban fabric. This study has explained those expressional elements with the architectural works of Steven Holl, Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.261-271
• /
• 2013

This study aimed to identify professional climbers'demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded 'knees', 'inner thighs' and 'hips' while their female counterparts most commonly responded 'inner thighs', 'exposed back and waist' and 'hips' in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.4
• /
• pp.84-100
• /
• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.97-106
• /
• 2019

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of the type and measurement location of a fabric strain gauge sensor on the detection performance for respiratory signals. We implemented two types of sensors to measure the respiratory signal and attached them to a band to detect the respiratory signal. Eight healthy males in their 20s were the subject of this study. They were asked to wear two respiratory bands in turns. While the subjects were measured for 30 seconds standing comfortably, the respiratory was given at 15 breaths per minute were synchronized, and then a 10-second break; subsequently, the entire measurement was repeated. Measurement locations were at the chest and abdomen. In addition, to verify the performance of respiratory measurement in the movement state, the subjects were asked to walk in place at a speed of 80 strides per minute(SPM), and the respiratory was measured using the same method mentioned earlier. Meanwhile, to acquire a reference signal, the SS5LB of BIOPAC Systems, Inc., was worn by the subjects simultaneously with the experimental sensor. The Kruskal-Wallis test and Bonferroni post hoc tests were performed using SPSS 24.0 to verify the difference in measurement performances among the group of eight combinations of sensor types, measurement locations, and movement states. In addition, the Wilcoxon test was conducted to examine whether there are differences according to sensor type, measurement location, and movement state. The results showed that the respiratory signal detection performance was the best when the respiratory was measured in the chest using the CNT-coated fabric sensor regardless of the movement state. Based on the results of this study, we will develop a chest belt-type wearable platform that can monitor the various vital signal in real time without disturbing the movements in an outdoor environment or in daily activities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.645-650
• /
• 2007

Three hundred of women between twenty and over seventy living around Andong, Sangju, Youngju and northern part of Kyungsang Province replied consumer research on industrialization of traditional clothing products in that area. An age distribution of the women is 60 people (20.0%) between 20 and 34 years old, 147 people (49.1%) between 35 and 54 years old, 93 people (27.9%) over 55 years old and the subject of study included in middle-aged and old-aged is 77.0%. A direct questionnaire and enclosed questionnaire are used to measure. The questions consist of questions about current circumstances of traditional clothing production, features of natural fabrics in the northern part of Kyungsang Province, distributive process, features classified by kinds, directions of development and economic conditions of natural fabrics. Andong has a traditionally unique culture throughout Korea. If Andongpo are developed as clothing fabrics harmonized beauty of tradition with modern characteristics, fashion business in the northern part of Kyungsang Province will be improved. In addition, encouraging majority of the young to participate in this movement is regarded as beneficial for the reinforcement of competitiveness against other regions and public relations of the region. As one of the solutions to development of this traditional clothing business, its own program made by industry-academic cooperation for the development of clothing products which is suitable for traditional fabric in Andong should be implemented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.518-528
• /
• 2010

This study analyzes the work environment and the work clothes wearing conditions of shipyard painters. In addition to this, three types of experimental painting work clothes were evaluated by painters in terms of the material performance and wearing functions. The findings on the harmful painting work environmental factors were organic solvents, noise, heavy dust, high temperatures, and noxious fumes. The body parts damaged during painting operations were the skin, arms, whole body, and face. In general, the satisfaction with the wearing performance of work clothes for painting was low especially in regards to sweat absorbency, sweat permeability, body protection, covering, and the work motion suitability. The satisfaction with the wearing sense of painting working clothes (regardless of the type of material) was high in the order of movement comfort> sensual comfort> physiological comfort. The satisfaction in overall comfort according to the types of material was high in the order of nylon> SMS nonwoven fabric> SF nonwoven fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.2
• /
• pp.235-245
• /
• 2013

Physiological responses and subjective sensations were evaluated for wearing protective welding clothing in consideration of the work environment for the shipbuilding industry. Experimental clothing was made of oxidant carbon nonwoven fabric (SW2) and oxidant carbon/p-aramid blended fabric (SW4). The values of all items in physiological responses were higher upon wearing oxidant carbon experimental clothing versus wearing oxidant carbon/p-aramid experimental clothing (p<.001). The results of the wearing evaluation in the welding work on-site showed that existing leather protective clothing had a very low satisfaction of permeability, weight sensation and wearing sensation. For the wearing sensation of experimental clothing with SW2, permeability and durability were poor and the pressure and weight sensation satisfaction was very high. In case of SW4, the satisfaction was very high in functional movement, pressure, weight sensation and management aspects; subsequently, the overall wearing satisfaction was very good.

• Journal of the Korea institute for structural maintenance and inspection
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.138-144
• /
• 2013

This study is for quality standard establishment of urethane waterproofing membrane method which is mostly applied to waterproofing method for underground parking lot and rooftop. The experiments were carried out on color differences, membrane thickness, tensile property by curing period of liquid urethane before placing protective concrete, and resistance of crack movement according to different substrate surface and reinforcement of non-woven fabric. As a result of experiments, it was found that color differences is increase, membrane thickness is thick, tensile property is low as concrete placing period is shorter. In the fatigue property, membrane thickness of 3 mm was not broken, but 1~2 mm was broken and in the case of the membrane reinforced with non-woven fabric was more stable comparatively non-reinforcement one.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.101-112
• /
• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.27 no.6
• /
• pp.37-46
• /
• 2023

This study aims to develop workwear prototypes by applying a systematic approach considering the characteristics of workwear. A case study was conducted before this study to derive workwear's four characteristics: 'Ergonomic Pattern-Making, Certified Fabric, Specialized Color, and Customized Details.' a prior study proposed the integrated framework combining these characteristics with the FEA model. The new framework identified that these characteristics are considered in terms of functionality, expression, and aesthetics; it can increase workers' satisfaction and meet the market demand without concentrating on only particular aspects. Before prototype production, the requirements for each characteristic of workwear were analyzed through theoretical research of previously published related papers. The study primarily gathered workwear requirements data and sources from consumer satisfaction surveys and investigations into the wearing conditions of work clothes. When considering all aspects of pattern-making, fabric, color, and detail in functionality, 'comfort movement, body protection, improved work efficiency' were identified as necessary. Expressive requirements were fundamental, including 'reflecting the wearer's preferences, expressing a sense of belonging and identity. It was clear that incorporating design elements and applying current trends to the aesthetic requirements of work clothes was necessary. Four prototypes comprised two top and bottom sets and two overalls using these requirements. The framework was used throughout the entire process of planning, producing, and evaluating prototypes, and through this, the results fulfilled the requirements. This study is significant because it produced workwear prototypes using an integrated approach that considered functional, expressive, and aesthetic aspects.