• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• Journal of Electrical Engineering and Technology
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.2059-2066
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• 2018

This study explored the feasibility of utilizing an SWCNT-coated fabric sensor for the development of a wearable motion sensing device. The extent of variation in electric resistance of the sensor material was evaluated by varying the fiber composition of the SWCNT-coated base fabrics, attachment methods, number of layers, and sensor width and length. 32 sensors were fabricated by employing different combinations of these variables. Using a custom-built experimental jig, the amount of voltage change in a fabric sensor as a function of the length was measured as the fabric sensors underwent loading-unloading test with induced strains of 30 %, 40 %, and 50 % at a frequency of 0.5 Hz. First-step analysis revealed the following: characteristics of the strain-voltage curves of the fabric sensors confirmed that 14 out of 32 sensors were evaluated as more suitable for measuring human joint movement, as they yield stable resistance values under tension-release conditions; furthermore, significantly stable resistance values were observed at each level of strain. Secondly, we analyzed the averaged maximum, minimum, and standard deviations at various strain levels. From this analysis, it was determined that the two-layer sensor structure and welding attachment method contributed to the improvement of sensing accuracy.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• KSII Transactions on Internet and Information Systems (TIIS)
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.687-701
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• 2020

In the production of industrial fabric, it needs automatic real-time system to detect defects on the fabric for assuring the defect-free products flow to the market. At present, many visual-based methods are designed for detecting the fabric defects, but they usually lead to high false alarm. Base on this reason, we propose a Sobel operator combined with patch statistics (SOPS) algorithm for defects detection. First, we describe the defect detection model. mean filter is applied to preprocess the acquired image. Then, Sobel operator (SO) is applied to deal with the defect image, and we can get a coarse binary image. Finally, the binary image can be divided into many patches. For a given patch, a threshold is used to decide whether the patch is defect-free or not. Finally, a new image will be reconstructed, and we did a loop for the reconstructed image to suppress defects noise. Experiments show that the proposed SOPS algorithm is effective.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.37-49
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data of dress design by researching three-dimensional decorative techniques representing flowers, a popular motif in dress design. This study analyzed 44 dresses that were presented in Valentino collection. The result of this study is as follows: First, the detailing expression method can show various patterns and colors through embroidery technique, sub-materials, and bonding techniques in embroidery, beads flower, and ribbon flowers. Second, the fabric flower technique expressed flower image in three-dimension in more various images than do either the ribbon or beads flower technique. Fabric flowers are mostly made from the same material as dresses. The expression technique of fabric flower is classified into the following three classifications: 1) A technique underlying a flower image with one, two and three large flowers, 2) a technique decorating a large area with a number of an identical motif, and 3) a technique highlighting a part of the body or design line by attracting eyes to one point, creating a corsage decorated where a designer wants to emphasize. Third, a silhouette technique realizes a flower image with a silhouette of a dress like sculpted structure and it is thus used less than a detailing expression technique. A flower image is expressed by making use of body lines or emphasizing the face. Finally, flower images on a dress were realized as a full blossomed flower, through visually streamlined shapes and curved lines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.16-32
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• 2016

This study examines music visualization characteristics appearing in Giorgio Armani's S/S 2000 Collection and Genny's F/W 2000 Collection, which elicited and reinterpreted the characteristics through an analysis of Kandinsky's paintings. Study results are as follows. First, music visualization characteristics were extracted through an analysis of Kandinsky's works to examine music visualization that appears in contemporary fashion. Further analysis of Kandinsky's works were done in regards to music visualization (Impression, Improvisation, and Composition), and music visualization characteristics were categorized into 'spatial element', 'mobility', and 'overlap'. Second, the analysis of contemporary fashion with a spatial component showed that space was often clothed through color contrasts that highlighted concise and playful effects. Emphasis on line and three-dimensional effects were shown by overlapping lines and costume pleats with exposure expressed by semiotic forms and fabric character4istics. Third, the analysis of clothes that express mobility shows that they commonly express mobility through free color arrangements and a shading of colors with playfulness. The effects of emphasis, uniformity, and exposure were shown through the gloss and transformation of fabric that emphasized fabric characteristics; in addition, the effect of simplicity, three-dimensionality, and uniformity were expressed by adopting the forms of geometric shapes. Fourth, the analysis of clothes that manifest the overlap showed a predominant overlapping of colors and fabric. The esthetic effects of playfulness and exposure were emphasized through colors, shapes, and lines.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.339-353
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• 2004

Purposes of this study were to analyzed coat types and characteristics of coat of young persons, and search whether fashion trend is reflected on coat. Data collected pictures that they are wearing dress in street of Daejeon city 3 places that there are much the rising generations at November, 1999. This study target was from teens latter half to 20 opening part, 154 women. Data analyzed content analysis, frequency analysis, crossing and the result is as following. First, classification standard of coat was textile fabric, form of detail and ornament. Second, coat could classify in three types, type 1 was traditional duffle coat style that is distinguished by form of detail and ornament(hood and button). Type 2 was classified property of textile fabric that used leather, padding, fur etc., and type 3 was classified by collar detail of woolen fabric coat. Specially, ornamental fur of woolen coat perceived visually strong. And design detail of coat showed significant difference in coat type. That is, duffle coat type was designed patch pocket and toggle, woolen fabric coat type was hidden button and seam pocket. Third, fashion tendency of coat was proved that is reflecting part of predicted fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.768-777
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• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.296-305
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• 2006

This study evaluate the effect of laundering on the deformation of knitted spandex/cotton fabrics compared with that of knitted cotton fabrics. Commercial knitted spandex/cotton and knitted cotton fabrics for T-shits were laundered in a drum-type washing machine and dried in a tumble dryer. Wale spirality, shrinkage, elastic recovery and surface contour of knitted fabrics were investigated under different laundering conditions: washing temperature, presoaking time and washing cycles. Knitted spandex/cotton fabrics had a lower angle of spirality than knitted cotton fabrics. After the first washing cycle, the angles of spirality of all the fabrics had decreased greatly. Knitted cotton fabric of low density deformed more than that of higher density. Knitted spandex/cotton. fabric of low density shrank less, because of the greater extension given during heat-set. Permanent elongation length at the 80$\%$ extension was longer than at the 50$\%$ extension, and the knitted spandex/cotton fabric which was expanded greatly during heat-set had a lower elastic recovery rate. The surface appearance of the knitted spandex/cotton fabrics was worsl~ than that of the knitted cotton fabrics before laundering and after repeated laundering, because of the much protruded cotton fibers from the yarns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.