• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2002

Until now, there is a tendency of most textile research focused on the certain specific area of textiles in profound. This paper based on the case study of inspection of manufacturing men's formal wear has been investigated in the relationship between defection of men's formal wear and mechanical properties of textile for fall and winter. As a results of implementing Pearson's Correlation, density, blend rate, bending property, the rate of silk blend, the formality of sewing are correlated with defection of men's formal wear. However, it is required the defection of classification standard in various types of the finished product in a further study. In addition to increase efficiency of production in the manufacture, it is necessary for scholars to investigate the direction of research according to the contingency approach based on the systems approach.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2002년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.24-29
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify apparel fabrics according to rustling sounds and to analyze their transformed colors and mechanical properties. The rustling sounds of apparel fabrics were recorded and then transformed into colors using Mori's color-transforming program. The specimens were clustered into five groups according to sound properties, and each group was named as 'Silky', 'Crispy', 'Paper-like', 'Worsted', and 'Flaxy', respectively. The Silky consisted of smooth and soft silk fabrics had the lowest value of LPT, $\Delta$f ARC, loudness(z) and sharpness(z). Their transformed colors showed lots of red portion and color counts. The Crispy with crepe fabrics showed relatively low loudness(z) and sharpness(z), but diverse colors and color counts were appeared. The Paper-like showed the highest value of LPT, $\Delta$f and loudness(z). The Worsted composed of wool and wool-like fabrics showed high values of LPT, $\Delta$f loudness(z) and sharpness(z). The transformed colors of the Paper-like and Worsted showed the blue mostly but color counts were less than the others. The Flaxy with rugged flax fabric had the highest fluctuation strength, and their transformed colors showed diversity.

• 로봇학회논문지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.265-271
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• 2018

The recent prosthetic technologies pursue to control multi-DOFs (degrees-of-freedom) hand and wrist. However, challenges such as high cost, wear-ability, and motion intent recognition for feedback control still remain for the use in daily living activities. The paper proposes a multi-channel knit band sensor to worn easily for surface EMG-based prosthetic control. The knitted electrodes were fabricated with conductive yarn, and the band except the electrodes are knitted using non-conductive yarn which has moisture wicking property. Two types of the knit bands are fabricated such as sixteen-electrodes for eight-channels and thirty-two electrodes for sixteen-channels. In order to substantiate the performance of the biopotential signal acquisition, several experiments are conducted. Signal to noise ratio (SNR) value of the knit band sensor was 18.48 dB. According to various forearm motions including hand and wrist, sixteen-channels EMG signals could be clearly distinguishable. In addition, the pattern recognition performance to control myoelectric prosthesis was verified in that overall classification accuracy of the RMS (root mean squares) filtered EMG signals (97.84%) was higher than that of the raw EMG signals (87.06%).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.927-934
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• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2006

This study is to review the printed cotton textile industry of Europe in 17th-l8th century, and specially investigate the development of the Toile do Jouy, printed French fabrics around the 18th century. Generally, the Toile de Jouy has two different meanings. The first meaning is the popular printed cotton textiles producted by wood block printing, copper plate printing and roller printing techniques at Jouy on Joas factory in France, around 18th century. The second meaning is the monochromatic upholstery fabrics printed by copper plate. Actually, this monochromatic printed textiles were the most popular printed cotton fabrics with large scale scenic designs with people, trees, birds, buildings, mythical heroes, protagonists of novel and country scenes of shepherds, sheep and other animals manufactured by Jouy on Joas factory. Main issue of this paper is to propose features of pattern, color and classify types of patterns expressed on the Toile de Jouy fabrics according to printing techniques such as wood block printing, copper plate printing and copper roller printing. And this study is also to analyze on origins of the variety of names called the printed cotton textiles in those days. The results of this study can help to understand the knowledge of printed cotton textiles in Europe and be effectively applied to develop printed fabric design in the textile industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2004

This research demonstrates clothing consumption values, fashion preferences of career women from the early 1920s to late 1930s. And having thorough understanding of values and preferences, allows us to establish marketing strategies for clothing companies. The main purpose of this study is (1) to formalize consumer group based upon the clothing consumption values, (2) to find for characteristics of consumer depending on classification of consumption value in clothing, (3) to understand the preferences of career women about fashion trends. Analyzing data was performed 292 copies, resulting factor analysis, Cluster analysis, X-test, Anova, Tukey test, t-test, frequency analysis, and reliability analysis. This paper showed 7 distinctive characteristics of career women about clothing consumption value. These characteristics can be listed as 1) value of brand image, 2) value of self-expression, 3) functional values, 4) epistemic values, 5) coordination values, 6) social values 7) psychological values. Importantly, brand image value became most significant aspects among 7 factors. Analyzing consumers based upon stated 7 factors, it was found that they are segregated into 4 groups; Self-expressive Group, Psychological Stability Group, Functional Group, Social Group. Secondly, for fashion trend preferences, self-expressive group, psychological stability group, and functional group favored Romantic Feminine Style respectively. Social Group showed preference in Nu-Basic'. The reason for such trend dealt with fabric materials and colors. Finally examining population statistics, younger generations showed more preferences in Nu-Basic', and consumers from ages of 26 to 28, 32 to 34 showed preferences in Romantic Feminine' regardless of their household income, clothing related expenditures, jobs, and education level. On the other hand, 'Modem Classic' was popular among college graduates and 'Paradise' was somewhat less popular among all ages except from ages of 32 to 34, consumers consumption 300,000Won to 400,000Won on clothing related expenditures. And 'Energy' seemed to attract more highly educated females, who had more than masters in degrees with over 300,000 to 400,000Won for clothing related expenditures.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• 한국멀티미디어학회논문지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.112-120
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• 2000

본 논문에서는 섬유 제직 공정시 섬유 제품의 질에 영향을 미칠수 있는 섬유 결함, 결함의 위치 검출 뿐만 아니라 이동중인 섬유의 왜곡각 분류 및 섬유의 밀도를 측정할 수 있는 실시간 섬유 성량 검사 시스템을 구현하였다. 구현된 시스템에서는 잡음 문제와 실시간 처리를 위하여 광학적 렌즈로부터 섬유의 위사 부분만을 추출한 후 영역 교차법을 적용하여 섬유의 밀도를 측정하였으며, 획득된 위사 영상으로부터 평균 기울기와 가우시안 기울기 분류자를 사용하여 고속 이동 섬유 가공 공정시 발생할 수 있는 섬유의 왜곡각 분류를 통해 왜곡각 보정을 하였다. 또한 명암도 상관 행렬 특징자를 이용하여 섬유의 결함 검사와 겸함 위치를 추출하도록 하였다. 제안한 알고리즘을 적용하여 구현한 섬유 성량 검사 시스템은 고속 이동 섬유 가공 공정에 있어서 실시간으로 섬유의 밀도 계산과 섬유 결함 검출이 가능하며 섬유 염색, 제직 및 가공공정에 있어서 섬유의 상태를 모니터링 및 제어함으로써 고품질의 섬유 제품 생산이 가능하다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.