• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.65-77
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• 2005

This stuffy is to understand the symbolic meaning of Korean traditional animal Patterns, to analyze their figurative characteristics focusing on fabric relics of Chosun Dynasty, and to search their internal beauty as well as their external beauty. Animal patterns can be classified as Individual type, the type that only animal patterns are used, and Compound type, the type that animal patterns are used with other patterns. The Individual type was not found at all. Only the Compound type, compounded with two or three other patterns, were found. Among the other patterns used in the Compound type, botanical patterns and heaven-and-earth-shaped patterns were the majority while letters patterns were rarely used. Bird patterns take enormously large part of the animal patterns. In terms of the arrangement, animal patterns are classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type.'rho three types are almost equal in their quantity. Picturesque type is found comparatively a lot. Animal patterns are much more frequently used in female clothes than in male clothes. For female clothes, they are mostly used in some parts of the clothes with ornamental effect. But, for male clothes, they are mainly used all over the fabric by weaving animal patterns on it. Not just their external beauty, animal patterns have also internally beautiful characteristics, such as keeping away from wicked ghosts, hoping for good luck, emblematic features, having ideological meanings, and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.49-65
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• 1992

The writer did a survey of current textile patterns for the purpose of identifying a motif trend. After identifying a current motif trend the writer used an IBM PC 386 Computer and Lumena Software to design actual patterns. The results are as follows: 1. The most common currently used prints are floral patterns. 2. Knowing that floral patterns are most popular, the writer established a motif using the Rose of Sharon, the national flower of Korea. 3. Using computer graphics to move, enlarge and scale-down motif, the writer has been able to design various textile patterns. 4. Creating patterns with computer graphics was not only more efficient, but it also produced more accurate designs and a greater variety of designs. 5. Using the many computer graphic functions avaliable, a greater variety of patterns changes and compositions can be displayed than would be possible if produce by hand. 6. Computer simulations of textiles and clothing made it possible to evaluate the printed fabric or finished product. Faults in the printed fabric or clothing could be corrented before production. Through simulation then it is possible to create higher quality garments and readuce costly mistakes. Thereby greater profits will be realized from the finished garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.347-355
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• 2005

Biodegradability of cotton/polyester blend fabric was investigated employing activated sluge test, soil burial test and enzyme hydrolysis. Surface changes of the degraded sample were observed through a microscopy. Changes in X-ray diffraction patterns and crystallinity were examined using X-ray diffractometer. Experimental results revealed that biodegradability of cotton/polyester blend fabric was proportional to the blending ratio of cotton, not showing any synergy effect. Polyester 100% hardly degraded in this study. Through the comparison of the experimental method it was shown that the biodegradabilities determined from activated sludge test and enzymatic hydrolysis except soil burial test were linearly related to the blending ratio of cotton in the blent fabrics. It is probably because the biodegradability determined from the retention of tensile strength of fabrics buried in soil was affected by the stress distribution of polyesters throughout the fabric. From the microscopic observations it was revealed that fungi were grown on the fabric surface and the colors turned yellow, brown and black. X-ray diffraction patterns showed that the heights of crystalline peak coming from cotton part in blend fabrics decreased whereas those coming from polyester part increased comperatively as time passed by. Crystallinities of cotton 100% fabric increased slightly at the begining and then decreased continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.