• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-147
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over seven years near Daejin Harbor located in the north central area of the east coast was analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 6.59 m and was caused by Typhoon No. 1216, SANBA. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both reproduced better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. Meanwhile, the wave data was subdivided by month and wave height level and the cumulative appearance rate was proposed to aid designing and constructing works in nearby coastal areas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.130-141
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• 2004

For a coastal or harbor structure design, one of the most important environmental factors is the appropriate design wave condition. Especially, the information of deepwater wave height distribution is essential for reliability design. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-pearson Type-III, and Lognormal distribution. For each of these distributions, three parameter estimation methods, i.e. the method of moments, maximum likelihood and probability weighted moments, were applied. Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov goodness-of-fit tests were performed, and the assumed distribution was accepted at the confidence level 95%. Gumbel distribution which best fits to the 67 station was selected as the most probable parent distribution, and optimally estimated parameters and 50 year design wave heights were presented.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.309-316
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• 2003

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-years return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.121-126
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• 2006

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.58-65
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• 1993

The theoretical treatment of statistical properties and distribution relevant to nonlinear random wave field of moderate bandwidth such as peak and trough of wave elevation is an overdue task hampered by the complicated form of nonlinear random waves. In this study, the extreme distribution of nonlinear random waves is derived based on the simplified version of Longuet-Higgins' wave model. It is shown that the band width of wave spectrum has a significant influence on these extreme distribution and the significant wave height is getting larger in an increasing manner as the nonlinearity is getting profound.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 1994

This study is concerned with an analytic derivation of the probability density function applicable for wave heights in finite water depth using two different methods. As the first method of the study, a probability density function is developed by applying a series of polynomials which is orthogonal with respect to Rayleigh probability density function. The newly derived probability density function is compared with the histogram constructed from wave data obtained in finite water depth which indicate strong non-Gaussian characteristics. Although the probability density represents the histogram very well. it has negative density at large values. Although the magnitude of the negative density is small. it negates the use of the distribution function fer estimating extreme values. As the second method of the study, a probability density function of wave height is developed by applying the maximum entropy method. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the wave height distribution in shallow water, and appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights in finite water depth. However, a functional relationship between the probability distribution and the non-Gaussian characteristics of the data cannot be obtained by applying the maximum entropy method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.178-187
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• 2005

A reliability analysis model f3r studying the influence of joint distribution of wave heights and periods on wave un-up is presented in this paper. From the definition of failure mode related to wave run-up, a reliability function may be formulated which can be considered uncertainties of water level. In particular, the reliability analysis model can be directly taken into account statistical properties and distributions of wave periods by considering wave period in the reliability function to be a random variable. Also, variations of wave height distribution conditioned to mean wave periods can be taken into account correctly. By comparison of results of additional reliability analysis using extreme distributions with those resulted from joint distribution of wave height and periods, it is found that probabilities of failure evaluated by the latter is larger than those by the former. Although the freeboard of sloped-breakwater structures can be determined by extreme distribution based on the long-term measurements, it may be necessary to investigate additionally into wave run-up by using the present reliability analysis model formulated to consider joint distribution of a single storm event. In addition, it may be found that the effect of spectral bandwidth parameter on reliability index may be little, but the effect of wave height distribution conditioned to mean wave periods is straightforward. Therefore, it may be confirmed that effects of wave periods on the probability of failure of wave run-up may be taken into account through the conditional distribution of wave heights. Finally, the probabilities of failure with respect to freeboard of sloped-breakwater structures can be estimated by which the rational determination of crest level of sloped-breakwater structures may be possible.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

When we design coastal and harbol facilities deepwater design wave and wind speed are the important design parameters. Especially, the analysis of these informations is a vital step for the point of disaster prevention. In this study, we made and an extreme value analysis using a series of deep water significant wave data arranged in the 16 direction and supplied by KORDI real-time wave information system ,and the wind data gained from Wan-Do whether Station 1978-2003. The probability distributions considered in this characteristic analysis were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-Pearson Type III, the Normal, the Lognormal, and the Gamma distribution. The parameter for each distribution was estimated by three methods, i.e. the method of moments, the maximum likelihood, and the method of probability weight moments. Furthermore, probability distributions for the extreme data had been selected by using Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov test within significant level of 5%, i,e. 95% reliance level. From this study we found that Gumbel distribution is the most proper model for the deep water design wave height off the southwest coast of Korea. However the result shows that the proper distribution made for the selected site is varied in each extreme data set.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.258-264
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• 2011

A MCS technique is represented to stochastically analyze the uncertainties of wave forces exerted on the upright sections of composite breakwaters. A stochastical models for horizontal and uplift wave forces can be straightforwardly formulated as a function of the probabilistic characteristics of maximum wave height. Under the assumption of wave forces followed by extreme distribution, the behaviors of relative wave forces to Goda's wave forces are studied by the MCS technique. Double-truncated normal distribution is applied to take the effects of uncertainties of scale and shape parameters of extreme distribution into account properly. Averages and variances of relative wave forces are quantitatively calculated with respect to the exceedance probabilities of maximum design wave height. It is found that the averages of relative wave forces may be decreased consistently with the increases of the exceedance probabilities. In particular, the averages on uplift wave force are evaluated slightly larger than those on horizontal wave force, but the variations of coefficient of the former are adversely smaller than those of the latter. It means that the uncertainties of uplift wave forces are smaller than those of horizontal wave forces in the same condition of the exceedance probabilities. Therefore, the present results could be useful to the reliability based-design method that require the statistical properties about the uncertainties of wave forces.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2004

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.