• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.33-49
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.2 s.13
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• pp.75-84
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• 2007

All styles began to coexist by recognizing diversity and changeability instead of an absolute value system of beauty or truth in the general culture field of modern society. In other words, the characteristic of deconstructism, which breaks down the boundary between order, balance, style and genre within the texture, is brought out. This characteristic is also having an effect on the field of up style in a hair genre to secure the beauty of incompletion as the beauty of the present time, involving the beauty of ugliness in the boundary of beauty. This study aims at presenting new vision by applying deconstuctism to the up style to express as an original and experimental formative art with various expressive methods. In addition, it aims at being perfect for presenting the creativity and artistry through expressive techniques by formative factor of deconstructive up style to find new methods and directions to design concept with main expressive ability of deconstructive up style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.15-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to promote the artistic value and formative aesthetic of clothes in daily life through a proposal of inventive fashion design by utilizing Depaysement of Surrealism, which visualizes a more realistically and more specifically than fact in illogical and unfamiliar situation, Focused on details of Korean traditional costume silhouette. The method of this study, the literature and existing researches related to Depaysement were analyzed through theoretical review for establish the expressive techniques of Depaysement expressed in contemporary fashion. Conclusions from this study are as follows: first, the expressive techniques of Depaysement are derived that are 'change of scale', 'change of materials', 'combination of heterogeneous objects', 'arrangement of object in a strange space', 'overlapped object', 'paradoxical image', 'variable awareness of boundary.' Second, expressive techniques of Depaysement present a new methodology which can express an irrational thinking, which is not controled by reason such as unconsciousness, dream, and fantasy etc, in a way that is easier and more realistic rather than thinking centered on an art which is ruled by consciousness. Third, unique and free-form fashion design, which destroys a general idea, was could develop by using abundant materials and composing items borrowed various silhouette for expressive the techniques of Depaysement. Forth, Through this study, the concept of Korean fashion design, that was limited by the standard form when we approach Korean fashion design as identity of social culture, ideology of reflection and expression, object of commercial expression, was could think outside of the box.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.45-54
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• 2013

With the development of digital technology, clothes of unique textiles using the digital printing techniques have appeared as a creative trend in textile design. The development of digital textile printing technology has allowed the fashion industry to utilize it as an expressive method of a surrealist trend in current fashion designs, and so it is necessary to understand and study this phenomenon. The present study is an attempt to understand this modern fashion phenomena from an artistic perspective by looking at textile designs that applied actual images to textiles, so that this trend in fashion design can be better understood. In this context, this study aims to examine characteristics and expressive techniques of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme associated with digital textile printing by using actual images among surrealist expressions, and to investigate creative expressions of textile design freely expressing the visual boundary between reality and surrealism with the development of digital technology. For research methods, we reviewed technical texts and previous studies related to our research topic for theoretical exploration and investigated the Internet data and used them for basic data. In the case study, we came up with the characteristics and meanings by classifying fashion design cases using digital textile printing techniques according to expressive techniques of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Details of this study are as follows: First, it investigates the definition and expressive characteristics of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme of the surrealist expression for its theoretical understanding. Second, it comes up with the characteristics by analyzing the digital textile cases from the perspective of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Third, it deduces the expressive methods and characteristics of digital textile printing from a the perspective of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme based on the resulting characteristics. The conclusions show that d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme, which consists of improvisation and coincidence, maximized the mysterious images of derealisation and mysterious primitive images. These things emphasized the characteristics of maximization of images, derealisation, and rationalization of irrationalism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.55-67
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• 2012

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman's parodies: female viewed from a male's perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman's unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

This study was conducted to examine how patchwork was expressed in fashion based on theoretical background on its brief history and expression styles and to show its possibility of creating ways for new expression in modern fashion. This study reviewed literatures on definition, history and styles of patchwork and investigated mainly works, which had been presented in collections home and abroad since 2000, to analyze its expressive characteristics shown in modern fashion. According to analysis on the expression of patchwork, it used various painting techniques such as patterns, colors and surface effect. It included patchwork having patterns provoking elusion of fairy tails; containing painting expression of reproducing works of artists; using colors boldly and contrasting strong primary colors directly to establish purity of painting and to pursuit characteristic expression; and using expression techniques of pure art such as gradation and cutting. Second, it used a compromise expression in materials, methods and substances. Patchwork which had used cloth without a pattern or printed fabric, utilized various materials like vinyl, paper, leather, metal and plastic and had a figurative value showing a solid expression as an objet itself with new techniques and changes of connecting methods. Thirdly, it used tradition patchwork techniques. Pieced patchwork, crazy patchwork and images of traditional odd ends of cloth covering a meal were applied to a whole area or a part of cloth to avoid monotony of design and to use it as a decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.167-181
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• 1996

Towards the second half of 20th century the fashion market has become increasely fragmented reflecting the pluality of cultures. As a result style no longer had time to accrue individuality and so people lost interest. In the aftermath of this fashion has turned its atten-tion to its materials for inspiration and inno-vation. Taking their inspiration for new working designers have began to explore diverse materials and expressive techniques of tex-ture. Textural expression can change the im-age of a garment even on with the same structural design. This study is to present the crinkle express-ive technique of texture through the applied examples in contemporary fashion and related backgrounds. The result of this study testified the import-ance of texture as plastic element through various techniques of crinkle; 1) creasing technique is reminiscent of the delphos of Fortuny by modern materials 2) twisting tech-nique is that finished garment is twisted and crumpled by hand 3) shirnking technique is recreated method that is crushed and tied for granting the human touch to the material.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.22
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• pp.92-101
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• 2000

This study aims to inquire into the expressive characters of Shiro Kuramata's works regarding his design languages. His design languages, based on sentimentality and aesthetics characteristic of the orient and his unique memories and experiences, can be defined as nongravitation, fioatation and transparency. And the definition can be completed by his unique extinguishing technique, eliminating the structure with materials without feature, such as glass and acrylic and expanded metal, steel mash and 'Star piece Terrazzo' a material which he has invented. This study examines Shiro Kuramata's design works from the late 1960's to 1991, the year of his death, the background of his growth and the art and people who have influenced him. It also looks into the indigenous cultural background and his unique memories and experiences. The study also considers his furniture works and interior design to read his languages properties of the materials and expressive techniques. The study presents data on Shiro Kuramata and puts forwards the significance of his works and tries to lead the way of the interior design by application techniques of materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.659-668
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• 2008

Today, Fashion illustration has been diversified in its usage and respotlighted in the significance of its artistry by artists' interpretation and subjective perspectives. The purpose of this study is to find out theoretical reestablishment of this extended expression sphere and possible expression coverage of Fashion illustration. First, based on the Fashion illustration works revealing expressive features of Pop Art, this study reviews major considerations of Fashion illustration, i.e. assemblage, silk screen and new possible perspectives respectively. Therefore, based on the reviews, this study seeks to deduce pop art characteristics of expression technique found in Fashion illustration. Expression modes of Pop Art are represented broadly by assemblage, silk screen and new perspectives. Based on corresponding case analysis, this study could come to find out the following expressive features of pop art revealed in Fashion illustration: First, it is found that contemporary Fashion illustration pursues unbounded expressions and unprecedented styles owing to material variety. Second, it is found that contemporary Fashion illustration tries to adopt new and experimental techniques including computer program. Third, it is found that Fashion illustration characterized mainly by expressive features of Pop Art shows and pioneer a wide variety of application spheres including commercials(ads), newspaper or magazine illustration and cartoon ads simply beyond designer's creative drawing. Furthermore, it is expected that Pop Art's expressive features shown in Fashion illustration will evolve through a fusion with various experimental techniques, and keep having cultural and artistic influence in the future as well.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.