• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.25-41
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• 2001

This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.355-362
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• 2017

The Nongso tomb of Sunchang was built in a relatively deep place; hence there was little damage from grave robbers. The tomb was completely filled with a large amount of charcoal, and therefore the wooden coffin was excavated in relatively good condition. On the basis of the structure of the tombs, excavated artifacts, and radiocarbon dating results, the tomb is estimated to be from between the late Goryeo and the early Joseon period. The wooden coffin excavated is double-layered structures consisting of an outer coffin and an inner coffin. The outside of the wooden coffin is thickly lacquered and decorated with yellow letters and white motifs. An analysis of the pigments' components revealed that the major component of the letters was gold (Au) and the major component of the motifs was silver (Ag). The coffin lacquer had three layers: a pigment layer, a yellowish-brown layer, and a black layer. The wooden bases of the coffins were painted with a black substance, such as soot, as mineral elements were not detected in the black layer. The yellowish-brown layer is presumed to be refined lacquer. From the analysis of the structure of the layers and pigments, we can estimate the method was adopted for making lacquer for wooden coffin. It is assumed that the method used gold leaf and gold powder. The form of the pigment and the internal structure are likely to be gold leaf, but the shape of the surface letters appears to have been formed using gold powder. This study will serve as important information for understanding lacquer making techniques at the time of the tombs' construction by confirming the making method through reproduction experiments using gold leaf and gold powder.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.73-104
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• 2007

Centering around ruins recognized of being relatively early stage related to flat tile and brick, excavated in Silla capital area, the study attempted elementary approach to seek the appearance time of every remain through comparing them from the excavated cases and production methods of Short beating, Medium beating plate, Long beating plate and Stamped-roof tile. Gyeongju began to use the short beating plate made of tile-less plates or tile plate and increased its quantity. That is deemed to be due to efficiency of beating plate making methods, and moreover to be limited only for use in the palace castle and offices. That is, making short beating plates is presumed to be made merely under some definite objectives. Medium beating plate has been spread to the whole country since Silla and Baekje united. Differently from Koguryo and Baekje, Silla had its unique Beating-plates making technology available for mass-production, which was spread to the whole country and resulted in disappearing of Koguryo and Baekje technology. Long beating plate was not nearly founded in Gyeongju area, but flat tile and common tile excavated in Sachunwang Temple site and Samrang Temple 3rd remains are known. In the outskirts of Gyeongju, long beating plate appeared between the latter half of 8C and the beginning of 9C. Until now, different views have raised to appearance of long beating plate of Unified Silla, which is expected to be clarified under the situation excavated by position relations. Stamped-roof title in Gyeongju is estimated as used after the datum point year 679. While in Baekje area, five stems and branches were involved, in Silla area, code or sign was shown much. The difference between two areas would be due to each other factory, and especially the marked contents werenot letters, which means it had been changed from Baekje s existing-methods. That is, it says the production environment changed owing to Silla's merging. And stamped-roof tile was temporarily used in Gyeongju but soon disappeared, which was because Silla beating plates made under cylinder-shaped tile barrel(圓筒瓦桶) and hitting-pressing of Medium beating plate had beenspread to the whole country, so the production technology of Koguryo and Baekje was naturally dismissed. In consequence, the mergence by Silla brought about unification of each nation's special technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.