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A Study on the Design of Madeleine Vionnet (마들렌 비오네의 디자인 연구(硏究))

  • Choi, Jin-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.26-37
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    • 2007
  • Madeleine Vionnet(1876$\sim$1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time. The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.

A Study on the Insulation Resistance Measurement Technique for Electrical Safety of Green Car (친환경자동차의 전기안전을 위한 절연저항 측정에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Ki-Yeon;Kim, Dong-Ook;Kim, Hyang-Kon;Moon, Hyun-Wook
    • The Transactions of the Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers P
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    • v.58 no.4
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    • pp.597-601
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    • 2009
  • Green car such as a hybrid electrical vehicle and fuel cell vehicle is developed as a commercial target. UN/ECE/WP29 is developing GTR of HFCV and establishing the regulation and standard of electrical safety by ELSA. The regulation and standard about Electrical safety of vehicle are prescribed in ISO, UN/ECE, FMVSS, Japanese Attachment and so on, in case of insulation resistance is referred to keep more than 100/Vdc, 500/Vac. However, accurate method to measure insulation resistance agreeable to structure of vehicle does not exist now, it is actually that correctness of measurement drops according to the feature of battery and fuel cell stack. In this paper, the method to measure insulation resistance for protection against electrical shock by direct contact or indirect contact in Green Car will be indicated by making a comparison between the insulation measurement in standard of electrical safety and the experiment results for HEV and HFCV.

Probabilistic analysis of a partially-restrained steel-concrete composite frame

  • Amadio, C.
    • Steel and Composite Structures
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.35-52
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    • 2008
  • The paper investigates the seismic performance of a Partially-Restrained (PR) steel-concrete composite frame using the probabilistic approach. The analysed frame was tested at the ELSA laboratory of the Joint Research Centre of Ispra (Italy), while the representative beam-to-column composite connections were tested at the Universities of Pisa, Milan and Trento (Italy). The component modelling of both interior and exterior composite joints is described first, including the experimental-numerical validation. The Latin Hypercube method has been used to draw the probabilistic distribution curves of joints, and then the whole PR composite frame has been analysed. Pushover and incremental dynamic analyses have been carried out using the non-linear FE code SAP2000 version 9.1. The fragility and performance curves of the PR composite frame have been determined for four damage limit states.

Collapse behaviour in reciprocal frame structures

  • Garavaglia, Elsa;Pizzigoni, Attilio;Sgambi, Luca;Basso, Noemi
    • Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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    • v.46 no.4
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    • pp.533-547
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    • 2013
  • "Reciprocal Frame" refers to a self-supporting grid structure used both for floor and roof. Using Finite Element Methods for non-linear solid mechanics and frictional-contact, this paper intends to analytically and numerically investigate the collapse behaviour of a reciprocal frame structure made of fibre-reinforced concrete. Considering a simple 3-beam structure, it has been investigated using a solid finite element model. Once defined the collapse behaviour of the simple structure, the analysis has been generalized using a concentrated plasticity finite element method. Results provided will be useful for studying generic reciprocal frame structures with several beams.

Scheduling Algorithm using DAG Leveling in Optical Grid Environment (옵티컬 그리드 환경에서 DAG 계층화를 통한 스케줄링 알고리즘)

  • Yoon, Wan-Oh;Lim, Hyun-Soo;Song, In-Seong;Kim, Ji-Won;Choi, Sang-Bang
    • Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea CI
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    • v.47 no.4
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    • pp.71-81
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    • 2010
  • In grid system, Task scheduling based on list scheduling models has showed low complexity and high efficiency in fully connected processor set environment. However, earlier schemes did not consider sufficiently the communication cost among tasks and the composition process of lightpath for communication in optical gird environment. In this thesis, we propose LSOG (Leveling Selection in Optical Grid) which sets task priority after forming a hierarchical directed acyclic graph (DAG) that is optimized in optical grid environment. To determine priorities of task assignment in the same level, proposed algorithm executes the task with biggest communication cost between itself and its predecessor. Then, it considers the shortest route for communication between tasks. This process improves communication cost in scheduling process through optimizing link resource usage in optical grid environment. We compared LSOG algorithm with conventional ELSA (Extended List Scheduling Algorithm) and SCP (Scheduled Critical Path) algorithm. We could see the enhancement in overall scheduling performance through increment in CCR value and smoothing network environment.

The Expressionism on the Modern costume (20세기 현대복식에 나타난 표현주의)

  • 채금석;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.24
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    • pp.121-142
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    • 1995
  • The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

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A Study on the Fashion & Jewelry in the Art Deco Style (ART DECO 양식의 FASHION 과 장신구에 관한 연구)

  • 김은주;최덕환
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.239-255
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    • 1998
  • Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

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Cloning and characterization of polyA- RNA transcripts encoded by activated B1-like retrotransposons in mouse erythroleukemia MEL cells exposed to methylation inhibitors

  • Tezias, Sotirios S.;Tsiftsoglou, Asterios S.;Amanatiadou, Elsa P.;Vizirianakis, Ioannis S.
    • BMB Reports
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.126-131
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    • 2012
  • We have previously identified a DNA silent region located downstream of the 3'-end of the ${\beta}^{major}$ globin gene (designated B1-559) that contains a B1 retrotransposon, consensus binding sites for erythroid specific transcription factors and shares the capacity to act as promoter in hematopoietic cells interacting with ${\beta}$-globin gene LCR sequences in vitro. In this study, we have cloned four new non-polyA RNA transcripts being detected upon blockade of murine erythroleukemia (MEL) cell differentiation to erythroid maturation by methylation inhibitors and demonstrated that two of them share high structural homology with sequences of B1 element found within the B1-559 region. Although it is not clear yet whether and how these RNAs interfere with induction of erythroid maturation, these data provide evidence for the first time showing that methylation inhibitors can activate silent repetitive DNA sequences in MEL cells and may have implications in cancer chemotherapy using demethylating drugs as antineoplastic agents.

A Study on the Estimation of the Optimum Lifetime of Elevator Components for Elevator Accident Prevention (엘리베이터 사고예방을 위한 승강기 부품의 최적 수명 추정에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Han-jin;Hwang, Min-soo;Choi, Og-man;Lee, An-ki;Kim, Jae-chul
    • The Transactions of The Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers
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    • v.66 no.8
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    • pp.1278-1284
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    • 2017
  • As of December 2016, there are 608,828 elevators in operation in Korea and 179,790 elevators in more than 15 years. 30.4% of all elevator are aging. Improved maintenance of the elevator and proactive replacement of the parts of the elevator can extend the lifetime of the elevator and ensure safety. An unclean environment reduces the lifetime of elevator parts. If you do not clean the environment and prevent preventive parts replacement, eventually shortening the lifetime of the parts connected to the failed part or causing more damage will result in greater economic loss. Also, the risk of elevator safety accidents due to failures of elevator parts will be increased accordingly. The study of optimum replacement time of elevator parts will contribute to prevention of safety accident of elevator and prolongation of lifetime of elevator through preventive replacement of elevator parts.

An analysis on the aesthetic collaboration appeared in the artworks of Haute Couture designers in the first half Modernism age of 20th century (20세기 전반 모더니즘시대 Haute Couture 디자이너 작품에 나타난 순수 미학적 협업(collaboration)의 의미 분석)

  • Lee, Hyo-Jin
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.315-328
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze on the aesthetic collaboration appeared on the modernism arts and Haute Couture designers in the 20th century as the necessity of analyzing on the pure meaning of collaboration which is a talking point associated with culture of the 21st century. The study was performed by means of documentary method. The results are as follows; First, it was analyzed that the collaboration in the pure meaning of the first half of the 20th century had partial common points which was stated as Art Inspiration in the arts collaboration out of the 21st century collaboration. Secondly, the Haute Couture designers(Paul Poiret, Gabriell Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli) have common point that they involved into the artworking through active exchange with many artists from diversified fields in the 20th century. Especially, the characteristics of the collaboration in the forms, materials and color of their works were appeared visually. When the collaboration in the first half of 20th century was regarded entirely as mental matter of manifestation of pure aesthetics, in can be said that the big difference was mostly the maximization of mutual interest between collaborator and collaboratee in the 21st century collaboration.