• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.12
• /
• pp.1359-1367
• /
• 2003

본 연구에서는 실제 의복 관리와 생산 면에서 접할 수 있는 모 직물의 접착심과의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이클리닝 및 프레스로 처리 후 직물의 형태안정성과 의복형성능의 변화를 살펴보았다. 겉감으로는 신사복 춘하용 모 100% 또는 모 혼방 직물 15종류를 사용하였으며 심지로는 신사복에 많이 쓰이는 3종류 심지를 사용하였다. FAST시스템과 KES시스템을 이용하여 직물의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 형태안정성과 의복형성능의 변화를 시험하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 모직물의 형태안정성에서 주요인자인 습윤팽창(HE)은 접착으로 크게 감소하였고 프레싱 처리와 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후는 접착 후보다 큰 변화를 보이지 않는다. 모직물의 습윤팽창(HE)의 조절시 접착심이 습윤팽창(HE)의 안정성에서 중요한 역할을 하는 것으로 나타났다. 2) 완화수축(RS)은 접착 후 조금 감소하였으나 큰 변화를 보이지 않고 프레싱 처리 후 현저한 감소를 보인다. 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후는 직물이 수축하고 볼륨감이 생김으로 완화수축(RS)은 더욱 감소하였다. 모직물의 완화수축(RS)의 조절시 프레싱이 중요한 역할을 하는 것으로 나타났다. 3) 모직물의 의복형성능(TAV)은 접착으로 크게 향상되었다. 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후 직물이 좀더 부드러워지고 볼륨감이 생기면서 의복형성능(TAV)은 적게 향상됨을 보인다. 이와 같이 3가지 처리는 서로 보완되어 모직물의 형태안정성과 의복형성능을 향상시키는 것으로 나타났다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.353-359
• /
• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.138-146
• /
• 2013

Chemical compositions and biological functions of brown colorants extracted from pine bark(Pinus densiflora) have been studied. Dyeing test using multifiber fabrics with extracted colorants were preliminary carried out. Dyeing conditions and fastness tests of selected fabrics have been also studied. The brown colorants were produced 1.5% concentrations by solvent extraction from milled pine bark using methanol. The colorants were extracted with 80% methanol as best choice by a criteria of solid quantity and dyeability on fabrics. The chemical compositions were identified as mixtures of taxifolin epicatechin and procyanidin by LC/MS analysis. The brown colorants could be dyed not only natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool but also synthetic fiber as nylon and semi-synthetic fiber as viscose rayon. Maximum K/S values was shown at 400 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of redish brown. Optimum pH and temperature of dyeing conditions was 4 and above $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The brown colorants had a strong antioxidant activity compared to Butylated hydroxyanisole as standard and weak antimicrobial activity against E. coli. compared to kanamycin. Washing, rubbing, perspiration, dry cleaning and light fastness for cotton, nylon and silk dyed with the brown colorants were carried out by KS K method. Most of color fastness such as washing, rubbing, perspiration, and dry cleaning were represented as 4-5 grade. However, light fastness was reported as 2-3 grade. From this studies, brown colorants produced pine bark have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics with antioxidant activity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.263-268
• /
• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.1030-1039
• /
• 1999

The effect of surfactant mixture 9on detergency and soil redeposition in a dry-cleaning system was investigated employing Aerosol OT as an anionic surfactant and Span 80 as a nonionic surfactant. The effect of charge system on soil deposition was also investigated in order to determine the optimum condition at which soil redeposition is minimum,. Soil deposition instead of soil redeposition on cotton, polyester and wool fabrics was measured employing petroleum solvent and perchloroethylene as organic solvents. The results were as follows. 1. Surface tension or interfacial tension was not changed by the addition of any surfactant or surfactant mixtures. In petroleum solvent however interfacial tension between solrent and water decreased when surfactants were added and increased when surfactants were mixed,. 2. The maximum amount of water solubilization increased as the mole fraction of Aerosol OT increased and more water was solubilized in petroleum solvent than in perchloroethylene. 3. The detergency of cotton was greater and the soil deposition rate was lower in Span 80 solution than in Aerosol OT solution. The soil deposition on cotton fabric decreased when water was solubilized in Aersol OT solution 4. The detergency and soil deposition rate of polyester fabric did not change by the surfactant type of the addition of surfactant mixture and soil deposition rate increased bywater solubilization. 5. Soil deposition on wool fabric was very high when Arosol OT was employed in perchloroethylene and the soil deposition did not change greatly by water solubilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.7
• /
• pp.874-881
• /
• 2013

Dansam (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge) is a perennial plant that belongs to the Labiatae family and is characterized by red pigment found in the epidermis of its roots. Research on the dyeability of Dansam extract was performed with repeated trials under various conditions such as temperature, time, and mordant treatment. Silk fabrics were dyed with Dansam extract and mordanted with various agents such as Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn to evaluate the dyeability and functionality of Dansam extract; subsequently, the K/S value and the change of surface color were analyzed using a colorimeter. In addition, the dyeability of dyed fabrics (such as color fastness to washing, dry cleaning fastness, rubbing fastness and light fastness) and functionality (such as antibacterial activity and deodorization) were analyzed. The surface colors of all dyed fabrics were recorded and the results showed the presence of mostly YR series of colors; in addition, a GY color series appeared in the Fe pre-mordants of the silk fabric. The highest K/S values were recorded in Fe post-mordants. The washing fastness were Level 3 and Level 4; in addition, the dry-cleaning fastness showed excellent results at Level 4 and Level 5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory at Level 3 and Level 4 and the light fastness was satisfactory at Level 4. The results of the measurements (that pertained to the antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with Dansam extract) showed a 99.9% bacteria reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. In regards to deodorization ability, dyed fabrics were found to have higher deodorization rates than those not dyed. The dyed fabric demonstrated exceptional deodorization qualities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.256-265
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.10-19
• /
• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.71-76
• /
• 2010

In this study the optimum dyeing conditions and blocking effect of UV deodorization efficiency of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb were investigated. Colorants were water-extracted from Ligustrum japonicum Thunb fruit and freeze-drided to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and the number of dipping count were studied. Fastness to dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, and light were measured according to KS K 0644, KS K 0650, KS K 0715 and KS K 0700, respectively. In order to examine the dyeability according to dyeing conditions, reflectance of fabrics were measured by using UV/VIS spectrophotometer. The bath ratio was 1:20. Dyeing concentration was 100, 200, 300, 400 and 500% on the weight of fiber. Dyeing time was 20, 40, 60, and 80 minutes. Dyeing temperature was 20, 40, 60, 80, and $100^{\circ}C$. The infrared high pressure dying machine was used. As dyeing concentration increased, dye adsorption increased up to 400% and it slowed down. Dye uptake was increased with raising themperature up to $80^{\circ}C$ and it slowed down. Dye adsorption occurred rapidly at first 20 minutes and then it slowed down and reached almost maximum dye uptake at 60 min. Dye uptake increased by repeated dyeing. Therefore, it is considered that optimum dyeing condition is 400%(o.w.f.), $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. And repeated dyeing improves dye uptake. Color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing was good, but light fastness and perspiration fastness was not good. Blocking effect of ultraviolet radiation and deodorization efficiency was good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.79-85
• /
• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.