• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 1996

This study was performed to define the effects of Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics as summer garments during outdoor work by human trial. One healthy male subject was volunteered for this study. Experimental garments consisted of three kinds of trousers (Cotton, Cotton/linen blended, Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabric/wool blended) and basic garments (panty, socks, shirts, and dress shirts). The measurements were rectal temp., skin temp., microclimate inside clothing, heart rate, subjective sensation etc. The results were as follows : 1. Rectal temperature showed the lowest in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics among 3 garments. 2. Skin temperature (forehead, chest abdomen temp.) and mean skin temperature were lower in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics than in others, especially during early stage of work. 3. Heart rate showed lower value in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics than in others but there was no significance among the garments. 4. Humidity inside clothing and total weight loss showed the highest value in Far Infrared Ray Radiation Fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.49-65
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• 2001

This thesis aims to reveal the unsatisfactory unfitting factors in the tight collars of adult males' dress shirts for the purpose of improving neck-collar fitness. For this study, nine adult males were chosen as the subjects. When the subjects erected their necks upright, the researcher conducted an experiment, using the direct anthropometrical measuring method and the gypsum method by turns, in order to understand neck shapes by way of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, neck flection, neck extension, right neck rotation, and left neck rotation. And then, the propriety of allowances from body surface alteration was verified by analyses through the measurement of wearing comfortableness and clothing pressure in two sorts of ready-made dress shirts, which had different allowances. The consequences of this study are as follows: 1. In length alteration to movement, a decrease was found in the opposite (and an increase in the identical) directions of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, and neck flection movements. Also, when the subjects shook their heads, an increase was seen by 0.42$\sim$0.63cm in neck girth, 0.31$\sim$1.12cm in 3cm-above-the-neck base girth, and 1.16cm in neck extension of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. 2. As a result of the drafts of surface measurement, the alteration ratios of dimensions and vertical length dropped in the identical directions of the movement, but grew in the opposite directions. A reverse change was shown in horizontal length. The rough widening gaps for making drafts were 0.7cm in front left and right, and 0.2cm in back left and right of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. On the whole, the space was about 1.8cm, while there was no significant variation between the upright stationary test and the movement test. 3. There were important differences between the two kinds of ready-made dress shirts (Type A: 1cm allowance in neck girth; Type B: 2cm allowance) in clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness. That is, Type A had higher pressure and more uncomfortable sense of wearing. In other words, as clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness are negatively related to each other, Type A's greater clothing pressure led to worse wearing comfortableness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.189-199
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• 1997

The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.80-92
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.106-116
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the image evaluation of chinese female college students according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 12 color pictures, in which the hue(red, blue), tone(lt-shirt/dk-tie, dk-shirt/lt-tie), and necktie width(narrow, medium, width) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of image. The subjects of this research were 120 chinese female college students living in Shandong, China. The investigation was carried out at April-May 2009. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were ANOVA and Duncan-test. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of image according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width revealed that the concerned factors are four characteristic dimensions of ability-elegance, youth-attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. Hue showed an independent effect on ability-elegance, appeal, and warmness. Tone showed an independent effect on appeal and warmness. Necktie width showed an independent effect on appeal. In addition, interaction effects of hue and tone on ability-elegance were found. Interaction effects of hue and necktie width on appeal were found. Interaction effects of tone and necktie width on youth-attractiveness were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.714-726
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• 2012

The Korean wave 'Hallyu' has proliferated in China and the trend is remarkable especially in wedding photography. Korean style wedding photography has gained wide popularity among newly married Chinese couples because it is regarded as fresh and trendy. Accordingly, there is an urgent need to develop and supply dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography. This study outlined the current status of Hallyu and wedding photography in China in order to analyze dresses for wedding photography. Chinese brides were analyzed to outline the features of preferred designs. The dresses preferred by Chinese brides for wedding photography included wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals (respectively), and partly featured traditional dresses. The preferred design elements for wedding dresses and evening dresses were ball gown silhouettes, strapless necklines, and gather detail. As for the casuals preferred by Chinese brides, the romantic style was most preferred and the skirts, dresses, T-shirts and blouse items were preferred for the romantic style. Through the analysis, dress designs for Chinese brides who want Korean style wedding photography were developed to reflect Hallyu content as well as 2012 S/S fashion trends for wedding dresses, evening dresses, and casuals. Currently Korean style wedding photography is gaining popularity in China and Hallyu content is considered a fresh and competitive item that may strongly appeal to Chinese consumers. This study focused on the development of designs for wedding photography dresses with Hallyu related content and is to be used as a reference for the development of Hallyu related wedding products as well as the proliferation of Hallyu.