• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The human body is a subject to represent one's thoughts and feelings more easily. Historically, the women's body has become a implement to express an ideal of beauty with the changes of the times and it has created some ideal boy by various means.We have been influenced consciously or unconsciously by the ideal body made artificially. As fashion dolls and mannequins came out with various style in he 19th century, the fashion and the ideal body of those days were expressed completely. In the 20th century, it took as a matter of course that commercialization of fashion made persue the ideal body, so mannequin as a transmitter of esthetic presentation were used to express the ideal body. Mannequin is a implement to express an ideal body of that times, because mannequin, when it is made, is exactly embodied fashionable images of that times which include a ratio of the human bodys curve, a pose, an ample bosom, a fashionable dress and so on. This study considers changes of the ideal body and the fashionable clothes in each generation from the 1920's to the present time, and, on the basis of this, the correlation of the ideal body with the form of mannequins. And this study examines what kind of mannequins, that is, realistic mannequin, sculpture mannequin, and abstract mannequin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.79-94
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• 2004

The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.59-61
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• 2001

Along with the development of culture, dress of the Chinese people has also evolved over the last several thousand years, transcending its original functions of covering and protecting the body. As a result it has risen to become a complicated system of symbols full of intricate meanings. According to de Saussure's theory of "signs," signs are represented by the elements signified (meaning) (referent) and signifiant (sound) (exponent). "Phoenix crowns" were the headpieces most highly esteemed by women in ancient China. Actually, the name "phoenix crown" points to the fact that the headpiece is adorned with a phoenix design. The history and symbolism of the phoenix crown's use as a headpiece in Chinese weddings spans 1200 years in all, originating in the Qin Dynasty (241-210 BC) as a phoenix hairpin, evolving into the phoenix crown during the Song Dynasty (960-1276 AD), and continuing through the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911 AD), and the modem republic. It is not simply an ornamental headpiece, but instead represents the thousands of years or rich inner meaning the Chinese attribute to "dragons" and "phoenixes." This paper depicts the glorious past of phoenix crowns, using the metaphor and metonymy theories of semiology and semantics, and through the cross-verification of literature research archeological findings and reports, and old Chinese wedding photographs, in order to examine the inherent meanings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.nings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.13-25
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to develope a creative expression technique in fashion illustration through analyzing applied techniques of the elements related to creative expressions in fashion illustrations. They were investigated in view of line, form, texture, color, space and the results were summarized as follows. In the creative expression using line in the fashion illustration. emotional effects of line created by specific character of mediums and duplicated lines have been applied to visualize movements of the objects. In shape, the transformed figure by destructing. covering or eliminating a part of the figure or the dress has been adapted. In texture. the invented texture reconstructed from actual texture has been applied, collage technique. computer graphic being used to give various images of texture. The creative expressions using color have been achieved by the shading. and spreading effects and the symbolic meaning of color for creating a spatiality in a picture plane and to give emotional effects and visual concentricity. In space, the color perspective together with detailed description. the combination of various points of view and liner perspective have been used to create depth and illusional space in pictorial plane.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.34-48
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• 1997

Dresses of the 1950s and 60s when the range and changes of fashion were wide and heavy were closely related with various styles of that time's architecture from the form, use of material, structure to the color. In this, study, characteristics of formalism and brutalism, main architectural streams of that period, such as line, structure, function, material, texture and color are analyzed in detail and these characteristics and those of dress are compared and analyzed to see if there are common aesthetic senses between them. It is particularly noteworthy that at that time formalistic architecture represented joy and abundance through enriched creation of appearance and flowing, symbolic linear beauty while the brutalistic produced young and vivid liveliness through functional, reasonable and moderate beauty, and this young and joyful atmosphere coincided exactly with frank, lively aesthetic senses of the young generation's fashion. Therefore, we can see common significance in the following fact ; architectural modes and fashion art of the 1950s and 60s were the result of more humane and enriched expressions from economical growth, and also product of that time's desire to adapt itself realistically to the rapid, complicated pop culture resulted from mass production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1215-1227
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• 2011

The recent craze for so-called skinny jeans is illustrative of the restraint of the body through dress. This phenomenon is noteworthy when considering the internalization of the corset in contemporary fashion. Grown out of the garments of soundly practical use, blue jeans have led the stream of fashion for about 150 years and now they serve as the new corset idealizing the female body in the form of skinny jeans. This study intends to examine the idealization of the body in contemporary fashion and focus on skinny jeans as an externalized corset. The struggle with corsets continues in that the real body is overwhelmed by fashion items. In the aspect of idealizing the body by constraining the body parts, skinny jeans externalize the control of the body as contemporary corsets. This study conducts literature research and content analysis as the method of investigation and focuses on women's fashion from the 20th century. Exerting a harmful influence on health (as corsets have done) the body in skinny jeans is regarded as a modifiable entity. The thinness of the body achieved by skinny jeans suggests the controlling power over the body. Moreover, this gives access to the power presented by the contemporary ideal of thinness. Skinny jeans are modern day glass slippers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.55-76
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to analyze the classification and meaning of symbols, of the clothes of the college students by sex-roll theory and identity theory. The clothes analyzed in this study were collected by photographs which were taken in the campus (240 out of 1,000 pictures) of the several colleges and universities in Seoul form fall in 1993 to summer in 1994. The results were as follow : 1. Analysis as a symbol of sexuality. The phenomenon of the visual inconsistency and consistency of sexual image in dress were showed simultaneously. The clothes of male students were generally becoming feminine style in materials and colors of clothes. These suggested that sex-roll theory be applied to their clothes. 2. Analysis as symbols of identification or individuality. The identification of shoes, bags, accessories, and hair styles were prominent than that of clothes. When it was analyzed as a symbol of individuality, the college students seemed to act as fashion leaders, who accepted new fashions and tried them on first. These suggested that Erikson′s theory on identity be applied to their clothes. 3. Analysis as a symbol of emblem. The dissimilarities of between the college students and other groups in the same generation were bright and casual attire with files, books, and sack. 4. Analysis as a symbol of campus ceremony. The clothes of college students on campus ceremonies were more causal and flexible than those of other groups in the same generation. It was known that the symbols showed above were reflected on their clothes as "one′s expressions" which are sex-roll, identity, and characteristics of college students.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.21-33
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.