• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.8 s.210
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• pp.161-174
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to examine the history and significance of t-shirts used in school that have a dress code to examine the meaning of the various messages that appears on t-shirts and also to examine how these t-shirts are used as form of communication. Many people that have strong social or political views or opinions use t-shirts with message as a means of communicating their opinion and views. Due to the low cost and ease in manufacturing these types of t-shirts, it is possible to express various slogans, messages and drawings. Based on our observations, there were various messages on t-shirts such as, 'no war', 'peace', 'no drugs', 'anti-smocking', 'protect the environment' and 'race or sex discrimination' among others. In this study, t-shirts were grouped based on their messages. T-shirts were put in to the following groups anti- war t-shirts, political t-shirts, t-shirts with messages about social issues and t-shirts with messages about fashion. Both international and domestic t-shirts were examined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.14-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.50-60
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• 2005

This research analyzes whether affected some South Korea woman's hair style comparing change of West woman's head form after the mid-1940s. This research purpose is analyze effect that examine South Korea woman and West woman's hair style and compare change special quality and get in our country hair style until 1980 after the mid-1940s. This dissertation is literature research that analyze change process of West woman's hair style and South Korea woman's hair style. Investigation method utilized dress and its ornaments connection books and treatise, beauty art connection books and treatise such as the South Korea and western dress and its ornaments. The following is the chronological analysis of the influence the western hairstyle has had on the Korean women. The hairstyles in Korea have been profoundly influenced by the western culture, especially the western makeup styles and hairstyles. Therefore, exploration of the western hair and makeup-styling conveys a great significance in conducting researches on the Korean hairstyles. Conclusion of this research is hair style of our country received much effects from make-up culture specially Occidentalism, hair style culture by each age, European beauty art culture research can assume that scientific analysis of west woman's clothes and make-up is important in our country hair style research. In the future, it is believed that the cycle of changes in hair-styling will get remarkable shortened with the advance in the computer technology, which enables the world to have a much faster access to other cultures over the Internet.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.157-176
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• 1995

The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.51-66
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by studying the pictures of street fashion of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age having highest purchasing power, along with traditional Chinese color. The clothing color is various in frequency depending on the items in street fashion. Due to the seasonal impact of summer, the most frequent item was one-piece dress with the Multi of various color patterns, followed by White, Black, PB, R and B category. In the top color, the White was most prevalent color due to the seasonal factor, followed by Black, Grey, Multi, R, Y, RP category. Achromatic color is more dominant with the ratio of 7:3, comparing with its counterpart, which consists of R and Y category of V, B, P, VP tone. In the bottom color, Dp tone of PB shows most high frequency, followed by Black. This results illustrate that Chinese women prefer blue jeans and to be looked as slimmer by using of the dark colors. In the accessories, colors of bags and shoes show different results. The bag colors show the high frequency of Dk tone, YR category, and the chromatic colors are little bit dominant than achromatic ones with the ratio of 5.3:4.7. On the contrary, the shoes colors show the highest frequency in Black, the achromatic colors are more dominant than chromatic ones with the ratio of 6.6:3.4. These results somewhat diverge from the international color trend. Color trend in Dalian street fashion in which the high frequency of V tone is observed through all the colors of the items followed by P, VP, Lgr tone in sequence. In the light of Chinese traditional color preference, this result denotes that the traditional color preferences of red, yellow are still affecting the contemporary color choices of clothing in Chinese women. The high incidence of PB category in the bottom and one-piece dress does not seem to have its origin form traditional Chinese color sentiment.