• 제목/요약/키워드: Dress form

검색결과 308건 처리시간 0.022초

한국(韓國).몽고복식(蒙古服飾)의 상관성(相關性) 연구(硏究)(II) - 고려시대(高麗時代)의 몽고침략기(蒙古侵略期)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study On Interrelationship Between Korean And Mongolian Costume Laying Emphasis On The Age Of Mongolia's Invasion Upon Corea)

  • 손경자
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.15-42
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    • 1991
  • A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.

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3D 인체 스캔 데이터를 활용한 체형별 인대모형 개발에 관한 연구 (Development of Bodice Dress Forms by Body Types for Women in Thirties Applying 3D Body Scan Data)

  • 서동애;오설영
    • 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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    • 제12권9호
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    • pp.136-145
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    • 2012
  • 다양한 체형을 지니고 있는 소비자들에게 만족스러운 착용감을 주는 기성복 생산을 위해서는 체형 특성이 반영된 원형 제작이 필요하다. 인체는 체형에 따라 곡면의 형태가 달라지므로, 인체의 곡면 형태를 세분화하여 그 특성을 원형 설계에 반영할 필요가 있다. 그러나 기성복에서는 개인의 체형별 특징을 일일이 반영하기 힘드므로, 기성복 원형 제작에 활용 가능한 체형별 인대 모형이 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 삼차원 인체스캔 데이터를 활용하여 체형을 분석하고 각 체형에 따른 인대모형 개발 방법을 제시하였다. 30대 성인 여성의 상반신 삼차원 인체 형상 자료를 분석한 결과, 체형 특성은 보통체형, 비만체형, 마른체형으로 분류되었다. 상반신을 기준선을 두어 나누어 계측한 결과, 체형에 따라 유의적인 차이가 나타났다. 계측된 각 부위별 삼차원 인체 치수를 기본 원형 설계 시 허리다트 위치 및 분량 설정에 반영하여 체형별 상반신 기본 원형을 제작하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 입체모형을 제작하여 스캔, 모델링 작업을 거쳐 체형에 맞는 원형 인대 모형을 제시하였다. 인대 모형은 인체의 입체 형상을 만들기 위한 다트선을 포함하고 있어 기본 원형 제작 및 원형 활용에 도움이 될 것으로 사료된다.

모로코인(人)의 장신구(裝身具)와 화장(化粧)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (A Study of the Personal Ornaments and Make-up of Maroccan)

  • 이순홍
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제5권2호
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2001
  • Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

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CAD를 활용한 귀금속 장신구의 DESIGN에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Ornaments Design of Jewels by CAD System)

  • 김은주;최덕환
    • 복식
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    • 제41권
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    • pp.23-47
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    • 1998
  • Ornaments is a province of the fashion. It usually express noble metals and jewel's adorn-ment as the symbol of status and riches for a long time. The ornament design of Jewels drawing project and a product by computer are increased development and as exertion as a realization of automation. Through the use of CAD software(Auto CAD R 13 & Jewel CAD) \circled1 A design development of the jewels in industrial society \circled2 A metals art & design on the dress and it's ornaments - Study about application of principle(liberal curve, arrangement of repeated form, gradual unity, rhythmical harmony) Although Auto CAD don't various expression of Jewels than a Jewel CAD, formative.scientific.funtional development of geometrical form is free. That is (to say), geometrical form is given much weigh in the general CAD, but Jewel CAD made concentrate software on the jewels design for the expression of liberal form. The CAD/CAM software for jewellery program is composed of main menu, icons, hotkeys. Changing form is derived from a definite point, curve elements of a drawing. \circled1 3-Dimensional \circled2 Easy and flexible \circled3 Bulit-in and self created library \circled4 From simple wire frame to full color images. As a CAD can practice all the creation activity effectively, from Design & Drafting Software to Rendering generally can present precise results. A point of view of the connection the scientist and art, this practicableness of CAD have a lot of possiblity of development. That will do much for the related fields of industry. Consequently, subjective intension of a creator & humanity with value plays role in practical application of the design.

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현대 패션에 나타난 Fluid Form의 특성 연구 (A Study on the Characteristics of Fluid Form Expressed in the Modern Fashion)

  • 서승미
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제19권4호
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    • pp.805-819
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    • 2011
  • In contemporary society, heterotopia is the law dominates thoughts and is the concept reconstituted spaces calls order in chaos. And that is the place which refuses the paradoxical and social custom and sometimes poses a danger and rise in rebel. The purpose of this study is to study how forms of clothing fluid form images are expressed in modern fashion develop body around in the spatial relationship between the body and its environment. The study method consider changed characterastics of fluid space through the heterotopia thinking system of Foucault Michel. Based on this method, the heterotopia space that appeared in the plastic arts in aspects of artistic significance and aesthetic value was examined. Based on the above discussion on modern fashion Fluid Form were expressed in any formative characteristics were considered. The results of this study are as follows. Fluidity is the transformed interaction. It expanded external representation of organic body structure and reconstructed flexible forms of dynamic structures continuously. Transformation is the new space structure. It constructed invisible transformation and developed convertible dress space by combining a variety of functional overlap and fold. Deconstruction was expressed structural forms, expanding the existing forms in the open structure which have ambiguous boundaries.

중세풍 복식의 미적가치에 관한 연구 -금욕성, 자연성, 신비성, 세속성을 중심으로- (A Study on the Aesthetic Values of Medieval Look Focus on Asceticism, Naturalism, Mysticism and Secularism)

  • 김태연;김민자
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제21권8호
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    • pp.1353-1364
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

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의상디자인요소가 의복착용자의 인상에 미치는 영향(제1보) -의복 형태와 색채의 영향을 중심으로- (The Effect of Elements of Apparel Design on Impression Formation Part I : Emphasis on the Effect of Form and Color of Cloths)

  • 이주현;조긍호
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제19권5호
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    • pp.747-764
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of the present study were 1) to identify the dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure, 2) to analyze effects of several elements of apparel design on impression formation of the figure in suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 60 drawings made by identical manipulations of 3 indepndent variables in 3 clothing styles(suit, dress and pants with blouse). The independent variables were (1) five clothing colors (red, blue, yellow, white and black), (2) two lengths(short/long) of suit skirt, dress, and pants (3) two types of blouse and dress collars (shirt collar/ribbon collar). The 7-point semantic differential response scale to measure the dependent variables (formed impressions of the female figure) was composed of 37 bipolar adjectives. Further- more, two open-ended questions were used for interpretation of the reponses. The study proceeded in three independent experimental part was based on the 3 clothing styles using a 5(color)$\times$2(length)$\times$2(collar) factorial design. Subject were 200 female undergraduate students reandomly assigned to one of 20 combinations in each part of the experiment. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, 3-way ANOVA and Multiple Classification Analysis. Five factors emerged to account for the dimensional structure of impression of the female figure in specific attire. These factors included three basic dimensions of impression identified as potency, activity and evaluation, confirming the results of previous studies. Result from open-ended questionaire supported the theoretical perspective of Schneider, Hastorf and Ellsworth on the procedure of impression formation.

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운남 지역 소수민족 치마의 조형적 특성 (Types and Characteristics of Skirts of Minority Races in Yunnan Province)

  • 김혜영;조우현
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제7권3호
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    • pp.167-179
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    • 2005
  • Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

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가브리엘 샤넬의 모더니즘 - 패션 비즈니스를 중심으로 - (A Study on Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel - Focusing on her Fashion Business -)

  • 이미숙;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제1권3호
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

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웨딩드레스용 프린세스라인 원형개발 연구 - 25~34세 표준체형 여성을 위한 드레이핑 기법으로 - (A study princess line patterns for wedding dresses - Draping technique for standard body type women from age 25 to 34 -)

  • 김해연;박선경;정재철
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제25권6호
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    • pp.913-927
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    • 2017
  • This study is based on the results of the $7^{th}$ Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.