• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.597-611
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to propose a design method for one-piece dress patterns with high body fitness through an appearance evaluation of one-piece dress patterns with the application of the 3D Virtual Clothing System known as i-designer. Measures consisted of an optical illusion effect in visual imagery and mutual influence according to a change in the length and princess line, in a silhouette of a one-piece dress. The data was assessed by a t-test and a multi-way ANOVA and factor analysis using SPSS 17.0. The results were as follows; The design of the study pattern was done by modifying the ease of the bust circumference, ease of the abdominal circumference, ease of the hip circumference, the position of the side seam line, and the appearance of horizontality in the hem line, which received a low evaluation in appearance evaluations of a one-piece dress pattern. As a result of analyzing the visual image according to a change in the length and princess line, in the form of a silhouette of a one-piece dress, four factors were selected; the whole-body optical illusion factor, the upper-body optical illusion factor, the bust optical illusion factor, and the lower-body optical illusion factor. As a result of analyzing the effect of the interaction in the visual image according to the design variables, the influence of the main effect was found to be great in each factor. In the upper-body optical illusion factor, a significant difference was not noted in the two-way interaction between the length and the princess line. However, the influence on three-way interaction among the length, princess line, and silhouette was significant.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2007

H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ methodology created viewpoint of art history which is an essential factor of art, and proposed formal analysis as an academic methodology specific to art history. H. $W\"{o}lfflin's$ expressed the see-form a as the five pair concepts which are summarized by 'linear-painterly' 'the plane-the deep'. 'closed form-open form', 'multiplicity-unity', 'absolute clarity-relative clarity'. His methodology is not only in the field of art and architecture but also clothing because during the same period have a relative tendency of thought, culture, politics and economics each other. As the result of this study were as follows. Renaissance of 16 century, the style of dress was enormous and dignified by body support outfit, hard puffs, slashes, padding and expansive jewels. It make appearance of man and woman absolute clarity because Classicism styles of aesthetic consciousness is geometrically perfect form and symmetry and restrained harmony, magnificent. Baroque of 17 century, the style of dress was vigorous mobility and subtle balance by abundant and free silhouette, soft collar, magnificent ribbon loop and tassel without body support outfit. It make appearance of man and woman comfortable and natural because Baroque styles of aesthetic consciousness is extraordinary degree of originality and creativity that was evident in the devising of new styled.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.37-55
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• 1987

Pasul (Herein after referred to Korean-styled Pasul) to cover up the secrets, which has originated from Bool-an original mode of clothes is to put around a belt with a kind of towel. With the development of culture, it has been handed down the parts of ornamental and symbolic functions, losted its particular and original one. In general, we cannot exactly show when the Pasul has been used as a ritual dress, but, dare to maintain in this thesis, which has been used in Koguryu era. This thesis is summarized as follows: 1. The Bool, which is the first dress of all has its origin in the prehistory, and gradually has developed to a ceremonial dress with the help of man's intelligence. 2. Korean-styled Pasul has continuously been handed down from generation to generation (to adding up, from Koguryu era to Yi dynasty). Today, the color of the Pasul is known as a pink one, but I, herein, would like to refer that king Kojong in Yi dynasty had on a yellow-colored Pasul. 3. With becoming to be a form of ceremonial dress, the Bool has become to be complicated in style. For example, in the Koguryu era, the style is in the form of 'U,' and in Koryu era, it is the echelon formation tinting a pink color and weaving a mountain and flare shaped designs, and its dimension, the upper is one ja (a ja means a unit of length, 0.33 M), the lower, two ja, its length three ja. The Bool of Yi dynasty tints a pink color, and weaves a seaweeds, rices, axes and shaped designs. The Pasul which King Kojong in Yi dynasty put in, was a yellow-colored one weaving dragons and fire shaped design. 4. The Pasul is a ceremonial dress used a ritual or court dress. The purposes of wearing it are to distinguish the upper from the lower classes, to make them abide by regulations, and to respect courtesy. Accordingly, the Pasul. as the dress for special occassions does make us review the old and learn the new. 5. The reason that Pasul has been handed down are: 1) richness and fecundity. 2) symbol mark to represent classicalism. 3) to symbolize the authority by putting on it, for it is necessary to distinguish the upper from the lower classes along with the class consciousness in society. 6. On the basis of the study, the Pasul transition is to be handed down the function of the ornament and symbol. after losted its original functions, with the development of culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.22-34
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.298-310
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1094-1105
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• 1997

Balla within Italian art is characterized by the irreducibility of proteiforme work. He was aware of the possibility of abolishing all the barriers between major arts and minor arts and he placed dissemination of art in life: He applied his idea of a lively, joyous art to the world around him. His irruption of art into life appeared in futurist clothing. As a father of Futurist fashion he designed the futurist dress for men and women. It was invented a new type of dress. It was conceived as the realisation of his art-life-festivity and created with an mimic funtion of modern city. In futurist men's out-fit, he eliminated static lines, forms and colors and he used asymmetrical cuts and various strong bright colors. The colors was the determinent of factor of use of clothing. Women's dress was secondary to his reevaluation of the male dress but it was current with other European trend. He made dynamic patterns in textile design, which were the key point in the futurist design. The factors of the futurist textile design were abstract character, dynamic character and asymmetrical character. But the patterns was not related to the dynamic forms. His invention of the new style was simple form with dynamic patterns as a modernizing factor in clothing design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.87-94
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• 2001

Filament winding process is a comparatively simple operation in which continuous reinforcements in the form of roving are wound over a rotating mandrel. And now it is well established as a versatile method for storage tanks and pipe for the chemical and other industries. In this study, tensile strength of a filament wound ring specimens were evaluated by split disk test fixture and dress disk test fixture. The results obtained from experiments were compared with the theoretical values obtained by the rule of mixture. And the purpose of this paper is to suggest an appropriate test method for the evaluation of tensile properties of filament wound structures. The tensile strength of a ring specimens tested by the dress disk test showed better agreement with the theoretical values than of a ring specimen tested by the split disk test because the stress concentration in edges of s split disk test fixture is more severe than the that of dress disk test fixture. The results showed that the tensile strength of a ring specimen was influenced by the geometry of test fixture, the continuity of fibers, fiber-tension, fiber-end and stress concentration in specimen.