• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.399-411
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• 2016

This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.461-474
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.413-419
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• 2006

This study was performed to analyze the wearing practice and the purchasing characteristics of jeans in order to offer basic data to produce superior jeans made of denim with small flexibility and to improve the wearing comfort. The questionnaire were 236 Korean women from the age of 10th to 50th. For data analysis, descriptive analysis and crosstabs were used. The results were as follows, in the purchasing characteristics, when the women of 10th to 30th decided to purchase jeans they considered fashion, design and price rather than wearing comfort. But the women of 40th to 50th considered that wearing comfort is the most important factor. The 10th is found the best preferred jean is wide straight style, the 20th is straight style, the 30th is boots cut style and the 40th to 50th is straight style. In wearing practice, there was a difference among age groups on the region that felt uncomfortable when wearing jeans. As the age increases, the abdomen size also increases. Most people answered that they mend jeans after purchase for length, without any relation with age. The reason why consumers prefer jeans with middle length between the crotch and waist and also purchase jeans with a short length is because they look refined and neat. This informs us that the short length between the crotch and waist does not match with ease and comfort, which are the images of jeans in the past. Recently premium jean brands are competing to show Low Rise Jeans, which seems like a Premium Jean=Low Rise Jean formula is created. Some manufacture companies are recklessly copying foreign designs that does not fit Korean's body shape. However, as mentioned in this study results, there is a clear difference between designs that they think consider as aesthetic and functional. Therefore, it is considered necessary for developing designs for jeans that can satisfy both aesthetic appreciation and functions for Korean consumer's body shape and each age group.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 2015

The purpose of the study was to investigate jean consumption among middle-aged Korean women and the characteristics of consumers as potential jean consumers. The data were collected from the survey of 238 Korean women aged 45 to 64 years old. The respondents prefer outlet store to other retail outlets and wear jeans mainly for travel, grocery shopping, and outing. The main reason for not wearing jeans is body change, which leads to poor fit in abdomen and waist area. The sample was clustered into two groups based on interest in jeans: high-interest and low-interest group. From the examination of group differences, the high-interest group rated conformity/brand reputation, scarcity, and attractiveness of appearance significantly higher compared to the low-interest group among the five clothing benefits pursued. No difference was found in obesity and body satisfaction. Group differences were found in recent purchase, price, number of jeans owned, and frequency of wearing jeans. The results suggest the characteristics of the potential jean market among middle-aged women in Korea. Implications are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.83-89
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• 2022

For the purpose of promoting the excellence of Korea's unique traditional hanji around the world, it was intended to promote 'modernization of tradition' by producing and presenting cultural products suitable for modern sensibility using traditional hanji which is widely used in the arts. First of all, using hanji as a material, jumchi hanji was made by jumchi technique. Cut to a certain width according to the cultural products such as laptop case, cell phone case, hat, and bag. Weave the cut jumchi hanji with plaine weave, twill weave, and hexagon depending on the purpose of the cultural products to be made. A cultural products were made by matching the woven jumchi hanji with artificial leather, cotton, and denim.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.85-91
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• 2003

Quick Response based Mass-Customization can be produced and distributed customized goods and services on mass basis in apparel e-business. Because consumers cannot touch and feel the apparel products in e-business, they tend to have the negative buying behavior. The purposes of this study were to analyze factors of texture image, and to investigate the differences of consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products based on different marketing channels (on-line/off-line). Two types of questionnaires for on-line and off-line were used to assess consumer sensibility on apparel fabric. The 8 swatches were selected based on the previous literatures. 202 returned questionnaires for each type (on-line/off-line) were analyzed by t-test, mean and standard deviation with SPSS 10.0. The result of this study was showed that there were partially significant differences on consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products between on-line and off-line. In case of corduroy, consumers perceived more high-class image under on-line than off-line. In case of taffeta, consumers perceived more thin and dense image under off-line (traditional marketing channel) than on-line (e-commerce). In case of denim, consumers perceived more thin and natural image under off-line than online. In case of organza, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of satin, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of chiffon, consumers perceived denser image under on-line than off-line. In case of velvet, consumers perceived thinner image, higher-class image, and more natural image of texture sensibility under on-line than off-line. In case of single jersey, consumers perceived higher-class image, and denser image of texture under on-line than off-line.