• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.314-327
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• 2015

20th century, beginning of modern, the style of art and design, separated reasonable and sensitive code. Art form including cubism, constructivism, futurism and different form including fauvism, expressionism, surrealism and abstract expressionism coexist two code in early modern. But the style of design was separated each period with geometric and organic form, reasonable and sensitive code. Replacement timing on two design style was the transition period of the production-oriented step to the sale-oriented step in marketing. In early stage modern it was stable production-oriented step. Geometric style include G. Rietvevld (Red and Blue chair), M. Breuer (Wassily chair), Fanizon and Martinelli (I-Ching) was simple and functional, received the absolute support. An aggressive demand generation and sales promotion for the design change was needed so that excess supply in the market with a stable production. In sale-oriented step for sales promotion in mid modernism, it was accepted transitions to the sensual organic volume with elegant and sleek style include C. Eames (LCW chair), V. Panton (Panton chair) and C. Mollino (Arabesco Tea table).

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.24-37
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• 2011

This study aims to figure out any possible expanded expression methods and diverse formative effects in fashion design by recognizing the importance of objects that suggest new paradigms as a means of expressing aesthetic consciousness in contemporary fashion and analogizing the formative characteristics of objects used in fashion and their significance. Accordingly, the study focuses on analyzing and interpreting objects introduced to fashion design with a formative view by substituting the concept of an object that has taken an important position in the contemporary arts for fashion. This study further aims to examine the concept of objects by trend and their characteristics within a syntactical structure and come up with a standard for classification of objects and a framework of analysis from cubism in the early 20th century when the concept of an object began to appear in arts to Dadaism, Surrealism, Pop art, Land art, Environmental art and the present time. Finally, the study aims to examine the status of objects in fashion and the relationships between fashion and objects through analyses on fashion objects and to suggest new perspectives and approaches to interpret the contemporary fashion in the 21st century.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.89-101
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• 1993

The Russian revolution and the successive "art into production" atmosphere provided a unique model of a strict inter-relation between social process and innovative process in the taste. Influenced by CUBISM, RAYONISM and SUPREMATISM emerged in Russia around the time of Russian revolution and gave way to CONSTRUCTIVISM, based on Tatlin's theory, which played a vital role to combine art with social committment. One of the first question to be established after the revolution was the function of art within the new society. First, it should be propagandistic and empahsise the benefit of the new state. Secondly, art could take on an affirmatory role putting foward ideal views of the society as example to be disscussed and followed. Thirdly, the Constructivists' view, "Death to Art" was their slogan. Their view was that the artists' work in the new society was to be based on the material value and beauty in fuction as this alone could be consistent with the aesthetics of Marx and Lenin. It sould be pointed out that among the various applied arts, textiles and clothing design were considered one of the most important role in propaganda and in support of the new socialst ideas. Traditionl handicrafts provided a repository of popular images and folk art continued to assert an influence on the textiles and clothing design after the revolution. Constructivists, such as Stepanova and Popova, went to the factory as direct answer to the invitation for the art-industry rapport. Thematic or propagandistic designs were directly connected to the daily life and national transformation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2012

This study focuses on the application of collage techniques to contemporary fashion and intends to show that collage techniques have a significant influence on contemporary fashion, leading to a more creative design aesthetic through the combination of fashion and art. The author carried out an empirical analysis focusing on domestic and global fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2010F/W, fashion publications, and internet data, along with a literature review. As a result, the papier-colle approach, as represented by cubism, showed a creative surface effect through the texture of the paper itself by applying real paper and other materials directly to the clothing items. Second, Dadaist ready-made expressed a distortion of the material and freedom of expression by creating a collage with ready-made fashion items and daily necessities. Third, a photomontage expressed unique images by printing various images of photos that contrasted in perspective. In addition to this, beauty in dissonance and a new sense of space by a collage of disparate material. Fourth, decalcomanie was expressed by printing methods, giving a stable image of the symmetry of the perfect landscape as well as the unintended effect of coincidence in abstract images and particular textures. Fifth, assemblage as the representative collage technique of pop art introduced the overall object itself or modified form by combining it with fashion to express three-dimensional aggregate structures.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제27호
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• pp.120-127
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of space design of Isamu Noguchi's works barred on the stage sets and environmental designs. From the end of 19th century, space which was begun to be studied about in architects has continued to be researched by not only scientists but artists. Recently, space Is expressed in free and new forms due to diversity of societies and advancement of technology, As a result, space has become an essential part in art and is used in the titles of many art exhibitions. This study scrutinizes space in Isamu Noguchi's works. No other 20th century artist has as clear and progressive space conception as Noguchi's. His notion of modern art was modified through space in the tradition of cubism and Russian Constructivism and Bauhaus. Combined with his experience in the traditional Japanese houses and gardens, these influences led toward a broadened conception of sculpture as the creation of living space. These modernist's characteristics are found in his early expression of stage sets for choreographer Martha Graham, and they would lead to a wide range of design activities, from gardens and interiors to fountains and furniture. Isamu Noguchi had created a body of work that crossed the boundary between fine and applied art as a sculptor, and as an environmental designer.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2004년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.98-101
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• 2004

A new kind of tide is rising in the area of architecture nowadays, and the young architects throughout the world are making their move here and there. This acquires a new trend in viewing new kinds of constructions. Following study is to analyze relationship between abstract arts and the formative characteristics of contemporary architecture. Architecture, as with pictures and sculptures, are traditionally in the category of art. The flow of pictures that had mostly given influence to modern architecture should be cubist and futurist of early 20C. Although cubists had given much importance to shape itself and futurists had given much thoughts to conceptual basis, which is mind of the century and flow of cultural aspects, these two movements had risen at almost the same time and have established two of most famous views of avante-garde, which is geometrical abstraction and mechanical beautism. These characteristics of abstraction arts had given much influence to modern architecture in point of shape both in and out and had become the reason of searching for the new style of architecture which could represent the culture and minds of the time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.381-392
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• 1991

The purpose of this is to investigate the color of Art Deco Fashion in Paris. (1920-1930) Through the age of Art Deco style, the enormous modern cities were built up and numerous life-constructions were designed conspiciously in Paris. Under this situation, the usage of the 'color' became very important element of design area and also it bestowed new form upon the modern design. The black beauty of Art Deco style was the outcomes of cubism, black-arts, and pragmatism. And the black beauty was regarded as the proper color to represent simplicity. Simplicity was the best way to express Art Deco style. The color and light of metal were used adequately to express a geometrical and streamline form; it was raised as a new beauty in this period. The primary colors were used to recognize the simplified forms effectively. New pastel colors, which signified differently with Art Nouveau were born centering around the Youth Culture like a summer resort and a sun bath. Also they expressed neon signs and atmosphere of beach by means of the tropical colors. At last the color of Art Deco style opened the new age. And it was started to use the various colors in design field from at this time.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2006

Many contemporary architectural avant gardes tend to use painting as a medium to create architecture which goes beyond the rationalized spatial conception of modem architecture represented by perspectivism. They produce non perspective drawings to represent spatial Ideas, and expand it through poetic imagination to create an unexpected architectural form and space. This paper attempts to analyze the historical origin and background of dominance of drawing in the production of architecture. It was with the invention of perspective that architectural representation became important tool for architectural production. Thereafter, drawing was considered prior to actual building and architecture was considered a three dimensional realization of two dimensional drawing. Modernist avant gardes such as Cubism shattered the rationalized pictorial space of perspective and found a new pictorial space. They tried to extend it to three dimensional space through parallel projection largely based on the Hildebrand's theory of pure visibility. However, due to the ambiguity of the position of the viewing subject, their attempts could not succeed in creating a new architecture. The new architectural avant garde of the 70's rediscovered the early 20th century avant gardes in their attempt to create a new architecture which can register the fragmented spatial condition of contemporary society, and used painting as a medium to create architecture. Their difference from the early avant gardes was that they used poetic imagination rather than parallel projection in the process of projecting three dimensional space and form from the painting. However, their architecture cannot escape the scopic field of perspectivism in that they rely on the picture plane and the distance between object and viewing subject. Therefore, I conclude that in order to create architecture which goes beyond the rationalized space of modern architecture, it is necessary to resort to other tradition of modern architecture than visual one.