Pants are one of the most complicated clothing items in the sense that they cover the most active part of human body. The technical and conceptual treatment of the required ease in the crotch area shows interesting variations throughout the global folk costumes. This study here, as an attempt to find out any standard or a good frame of reference to be used to describe the characteristic features of our pants, and/or to compare out pants with nearby folk costumes, presented some of the Korean scholars' views toward our pants forms, and also introduced Hansen's classification of pants types. Several questions, concerned with the developmental process of a few types of Korean pants, its classification amongst pants of the world, and its similarities and differences in contrast with those of nearby Asian countries are proposed as new problems to be challenged.
Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.
This study is based on anthropometric data from the 7th Size Korea, we selected five subjects with measurements similar to average women in their twenties. The subjects participated in adaptability assessments and appearance assessments of skinny jeans produced by 8 selected brands, to identify the pattern and measurements characteristics of jeans assessed to be superior in appearance and movement adaptability. The results of this study were as follows. First, according to the results of appearance assessment made by the specialist group, B brand earned the highest assessment in response to questions regarding if 'there is an appropriate amount of ease in the crotch area' on the front side and 'an appropriate amount of ease in the hip circumference area' on the back side. Based on the above results, Synthesizing the survey results and the appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment results, we suggest that when drafting the pattern for the standard size of waist measurement 27 inches (67cm), the hip circumference should be given an appropriate amount of ease, of around -6.6cm (-7.2%). The thigh circumference should be set with an appropriate amount of ease, which is -5.3cm (-9.4%).
Well-fitting riding breeches provide a comfortable ride. Horse-riding breeches should fit the lower body with patches located on the inside of hip and knees to prevent tears and slips. This study provides information about the fit of women's breeches using 3D human body scan data wearing commercially available two breeches according to posture. To get information about breeches fit, we measured the angle of waist line, the length, and the area of the breeches fit on four 20's women. This research showed the problem which was down for waist back line in the case of the horseback riding pose. The back waistline of the riding breeches should be raised compared to the front waistline; subsequently, an increased waistline angle results in less back waistline decrease. The breeches have plenty of length from back waist to crotch so the breech fit can be improved. The thigh circumference increased when riding in the front; therefore, good elasticity of the weft direction of the fabric is recommended. The length increase and the peripheral increase of the front knee significantly increased the surface area of the knee; consequently, knee patch material should be a two-way elastic fabric in all directions to enhance comfort according to riding motion.
The purpose of this study was to compare two methods of measuring body surface area (BSA). The BSA of Korean adults was measured using both three-dimensional (3D) scanning and an alginate method. Two males (one overweight and one lean) and one overweight female participated as subjects. The results were as follows: First, the 3D scanned BSA of all three subjects was smaller than the BSA measured using the alginate method by as much as $6-14\%$. The difference in methods was greater in the overweight participants than in the lean subject. Second, the results comparing the BSA obtained using these two methods and the BSA estimated by 10 previously developed formulas, showed that the 3D scanned BSA was the smallest among the 12 BSAs. Third, in comparing the regional differences between these two methods, the regional BSA of the lean subject (male 2) did not show any significant difference, but the overweight subjects (male 1, female 1) showed a significant difference. Forth, the biggest difference in regional BSA obtained through these two methods was in the hand, for all three subjects. The 3D scanned hand surface area was smaller than the hand surface area measured by the alginate method by as much as $24-34\%$. Fifth, in the percentage of regional BSA, there was no significant difference in these two methods. The reasons for the underestimation in the 3D scanning might be because: 1) the 3D scanner can not recognize the folding and shading of body parts, such as the finger, toe, ear, armpit, crotch and breast, 2) 3D patching and smoothing processes depend on researchers. However, the 3D scanning method is applicable to the estimation of the entire BSA, if the surface area of the hands is known, and the participant is not overweight.
By cluster sampling measurements, passing months of pregnancy according to changes of pregnant women body forms. On the basis of the above mentioned data, sizes of pregnant women clothes were decided. The results are as follows. 1. By cluster sampling measurements, sixty-nine items of apparel were obtained during the three different periods of pregnancy. They included the mean and standard deviation of body form measurement and the minimum and maximum values (Chart 3-4). The results of these surveys made it possible to notice the changes of pregnant womens' physical characteristics, i. e., the increased physical proportions: frontal waist area, umbilicus width, abdominal girth, crotch length, the length of the nipple, and body weight and the decreased proportions: omphalos height, perineum dimension. There was little change in the rear parts of the body. 2. The analized results of principle factors for body form measurements by cluster measurements produced seven major factors for which the proper values were over 1.0. They were: form factor, pregnancy factor, posture factor, breast formation factor, rear body formation factor, and nipple to nipple breadth. 3. In deciding garment sizes of pregnant women, four different sizes were established; small, medium, large, and extra-large according to the third, fifth, eighth, and tenth month of pregnancy. The measurement value of each item was produced by estimate.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the clothing behaviors and wearing sensation of ready-to-wear of the elderly woman who residing in the Pusan and Kimhae. The subjects were elderly woman who assessed the wearing sensation of slacks, jacket 1(1-2button), jacket 2(over 4button), and jumper. The results were as follows: 1. In the analysis of the clothing behaviors factors, the factor 1 was the concern about the appearance, the factor 2 was mental dependency about the clothes, the factor 3 was the satisfaction about the clothes and the factor 4 was the concern about the fashion. 2. As for the wearing sensation of the slacks, waist and thigh of the slacks was large and slacks length and crotch length was long. As for the wearing sensation of the jacket 1, over the age of 70 years was more satisfied than under the age of 70 for the wearing sensation of bust, waist, hip, and sleeve length. As for the wearing sensation of the jacket 2, under the age of 70 years was more satisfied than over the age of 70 for the wearing sensation of sleeve length and location of the armhole. As for the wearing sensation of the jumper, the area showed significant difference in waist. Jumper was larger than jacket.
The puropose of this study was to investigate the movement-fitness according to the surface changing of lower limb The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movements (5) and body-shapes (7). This study was done by the expansion and contraction rate consideration of length, girth Also, the lower half of body shape-change on the movements and body-shapes by flat shell was done simultaneously. The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, when commpared the expansion and contraction rate of the length and girth items, the expansion rate of the back crotch length (14~20%), hip girth (10~ 21%) and knee girth (6.2~18.5%) in rabbit leap movement was the most notable among all variables considered in this experimentation. On the others hand, the front croth length (-22~-52%) contracted remarkably. And big-thigh type was the most notable on the body-shape comparision. Second, in comparision of the expansion and contraction rate of the area on the blocks, the expansion of the hip (50~200%) and knee (51~74%) block was the most remarkable. Especially, in the sit on knees movement of the hip-down type expanded 209.4%. Third, in comparision of the lower half of body shape-change, on the movements and body- shapes by the flat shell, under the influence of knee-joint and hip-joint the shape-changs of the hip and knee block was the most notable. But the shape-change of the waist, abdomen, calf, and ankle was feeble.
The primary goal of this study was to provide a systematic methodology of utilizing 3D technology for tight-fit performance sportswear using information of skin deformation in various posture. Technical tools used in this study are Cyberware whole body scanner, RapidForm2004, 2C-AN 3D pattern development program, and YukaCAD. Analysis of the 3D skin deformation while knee joint was bent from $0^{\circ}$ to $60^{\circ}$ revealed that the length of dermatomes L4 was remained consistent during knee bending. Therefore, L4 was chosen as a major cutting line. To develop a highly ergonomic pattern, replicas of static and dynamic postures were developed and integrated using two methods, one is morphing method (Sqirlz Morph), and the other is AutoCAD. Experimental tight-fit garments called 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was designed using dematomes L4, L2, and inner line under knee and compared with four other patterns. As results, AutoCAD was appropriate as a integrating method of various postures. In wear test, 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was rated high (p < .001), in terms of pressure comfort especially around front crotch area. However, wear sensation was not signipicantly different in other area due to highly extensible property of materials. Pressure distribution was relatively even in these experimental garments.
The purpose of this study was to develop disposable diapers for the elderly in need by experimenting with wearing disposable diapers and analyzing the properties of materials of these diapers. The diapers were of two different types: one was a panty type for the elderly who were bed ridden, and the other was a pad type for the elderly who had incontinence. The subjects for the wearing test of the panty type were forty who were bed ridden, and there were forty subjects for the wearing test of the pad type who had incontinence. The disposable diapers for these experiments were chosen from those already found in the market place. Four panty types and three pad types were selected. From these experiments for the disposable diapers, the first prototypes were developed, and the second prototypes were proposed by experimenting with the first prototypes. The first panty prototype was designed to improve absorbing power, and we added waist rubber bands to prevent evacuation from back leaking and a frontal tape to prevent waistline film from tearing. The first pad prototype was designed to improve absorbing power also, and we added side rubber bands to prevent the side leaking and an adhesive tape on the fore part of the bottom to prevent the diapers from moving, and made the outline of the back area curved and thin to help hide the diaper from detection thus making the wearer feel better. From these test cases and analyzing the properties of materials with the first prototypes, we gained some success, but several points on further improvements were proposed to refine the final prototypes. The second panty prototype we proposed was to make 1he length longer, especially in the crotch area to prevent excess leaking and to fit the body more snugly. Also, the second pad prototype was proposed to reduce the total thickness of the diaper, and to improve the feeling and appearance.
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