• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1999

This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term “role” has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The term ‘role’ had been borrowed from the drama. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The typical examples in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be effectively exploited for the performance of the role are manifested in the history plays of Shakespeare. Thus, our goal in this study is to analyze the role of costume which appears in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The situation role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one\`s status, thereby makes possible acting other\`s position. The costume also could symbolize the social status, position, rank, occupation, and the situation, and functioned as a media fo delivering messages to others. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the custom of a society through its wearing configuration. The costume (or a uniform) adopted by a group notified the characteristics and the expectation of action of the group to others. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.923-938
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• 2009

Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to produce an essential guideline for making costumes for traditional Korean mask plays by doing a comparative analysis between traditional Korean mask plays and Italian 'Commedia dell'arte'. The results of this study are as follow. The costumes of Korea's mask plays were mainly used to show difference in social status. Analysis showed that costume features, such as color, fabric, and silhouette, were not important to the traits of the character. On the other hand, the costumes in the Italian 'Commedia dell'arte' were used to express the characters' traits. The colors, fabric and silhouettes were exaggerated compared to everyday wear. This enhanced the looks of the character, and it kept on developing with the demands of the culture consumer. This study was performed to support further development and success of traditional Korean mask plays.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.209-216
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• 1990

As was defined by Sarbin, the term "role" has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role, and the change of role brings about the change of costumes, and the change of costumes makes influence on the wearers. The typical cases in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be. effectively exploited for role change are manifested in the plays of Shakespear. Thus, our goal in this article is to analyze the role of costume which appears in the plays of Shakespear. There, the disguise in costume brings about the change of action of the characters on the stage, the drama reveals the role of costume obviously. The roles of costume appeared most frequently are the disguise role and the situation role. The disguise role hides one's status, thereby makes possible acting other's position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of sex, age, occupation, status, atmosphere. The situation role of costume can be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the person on the stage. The suitable wearing of costume has functions of performing roles effectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.85-92
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• 2004

Costume plays have been of interest to young people in the recent years. The much increased interest in costume plays has prompted many researchers to verify the behavior characteristics of costume players Despite the importance of the costume play, there has been no systematic study of it. The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the influence of life style on behavior characteristics of the costume player. The subjects of this study were members of the web sits(www.cosmaker.com). A total of 155 subjects responded to the questionnaires and the 143 responses were used for further data analysis. The data was analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, and one-way ANOVA. These were the results of the stud: First, costume player groups are classified into three sub-dimensions: other people-oriented, show-off oriented, and exclusive ego oriented. Second, the behavior characteristics of costume player are significantly shown among those groups.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.18-35
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies' original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies' small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director's intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.153-162
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• 2004

Influenced by Constructivism Art, Constructivism theatre projected the future with the help of participating artists and the development of new technologies. Therefore, this thesis studied the stage costumes in the plays of Meyerhold who represented Constructivism Play and showed its characteristics. The stage costumes in Meyerhold's plays followed the rules of Constructivism Play and showed several unique characteristics, such as the Bio-mechanic as a characteristic in his plays, functionality that facilitated the movement based on Taylorism, simple shapes, and easy cutting. Constructive artists saw the stage of constructive plays as a laboratory where they can display their designs, directly portraying future life forms through stage costumes and props. Stage costumes were no more a supporting tool that had described the play. Following the new concept of stage costumes, working costumes and stage costumes came to be regarded as the same. In turn, this led to new models and special costumes such as sportswear or specialized garments. Constructivism artists foresaw the future through the plays, with their fundamental basis for stage costumes shown in the later works of ordinary costumes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.175-183
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• 2011

Based on an investigation of Miao ethnic group costumes, this research focuses on redesigning and reinterpreting of the Miao costume. The results are summarized as follows. According to the constitution of the clothes, the decorative parts and the way people wear them, women's clothing can be divided into five categories: Sangseohyeong, Geomjungnamhyeong A, Geomjungnamhyeong B, Cheongeomjeonhyeong, Haenamhyeong. Miao consists of straight lines with creases for both skirts and trousers. With the excess part of the belt or apron, X-shape and H-shape are formed. There are three basic decorative patterns: geometric patterns, animal patterns and plant patterns. In addition, there are three color values: warm, cool and dark. Silver Jewelry plays such an important role in the Miao Costume that the process of the production is also very special for the Chinese national dress. According to the features of the five types of Miao, then redesign and re-interpreted of them.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.285-295
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• 1997

This dissertation aims to study a role and importance of clothing as a visual transmission system, with investigating the system and structure of a pragmatics in a cinema costume and analyzing what the meaning of a pragmatics is, depending on the circumstance on the circumstance on the basis of pragmatics. It examines as an objective the clothes of Scarlett, a heroine in 'Gone with the Wind's film originated from the novel written by Margaret Mitchell. As a result of this study, the movie costumes demonstrate a purposed transmission medium as a describing tool governing comprehensive circumstances in the process of drama. The costume plays a significant role in delivering a meaning of a movie showing historical backgrounds, social situations, and psychological description, status, characteristics, tastes of characters by means of their costumes in the movie.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The object of this research is to know the characteristics of design for stage costume design through experiencing production of costume design of Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and to know the effect of stage costume at real performance. Background of times and characteristics were reviewed by analyzing opera. And reference regarding Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and script, and image data analysis and interview with director were also done. Ethnic costume in Sicily in southern Italy was reviewed at conception step. and design was embodied by analyzing character of each person based on this analysis. Form of character. motion and vocalization were considered at actual production step, and stage effect was analysed by considering lighting, stage background, and combination of color on costume between characters through real performance. The above conclusion could present professional and systematic methodology in designing opera and other stage costumes. And this research can also be a contribution in these days when interest for theatrical art. along with importance of stage costume, plays a key role in modern art. role in modern art.