• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2015

In the present study, 50% ethanol extract, the ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction were prepared from mate (Ilex paraguariensis) and their antioxidative ability was evaluated. The yields of extract and fractions were 32.0, 4.48 and 0.82% per dried powder, respectively. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and total antioxidant capacity was estimated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. Free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 8.83, 5.84 and $6.05{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Their total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) were similar to that of L-ascorbic acid ($1.72{\mu}g/mL$), known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant, in all extracts and 50% ethanol extract ($1.03{\mu}g/mL$) was the most effective. The cellular protective effects on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes were evaluated and the results showed that all extracts were significantly higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$. Especially, the ${\tau}_{50}$ value of aglycone fraction was 5 times higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions on tyrosinase were similar to arbutin, known as the whitening agent in cosmetics. These results suggest that the extracts of mate have the applicability as antioxidant and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2018

In this study, the anti-oxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects of Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by enzyme treatment and pressurized extraction were investigated. The Castanea crenata inner shell was first hydrolyzed using celluclast, viscozyme, or hemicellulase. Then, it was subjected to pressure extraction for different durations (30, 60, and 120 min). The yields of the Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by different enzyme treatments followed by pressurized extraction for different times are in the range of 12.42-29.80%. The total polyphenol, flavonoid, and tannin contents of the C30m (celluclast enzyme and autoclave extracts at 30 min) extract were 15.48, 10.82, and 15.82 g/100 g, respectively. The total sugar content of the H120m(hemicellulase enzyme and autoclave extracts at 120 min) extract is 61.07 g/100 g. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-pycrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activities of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 89.20, and 81.96%, respectively. The superoxide radical scavenging and ferric-reducing antioxidant power of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 67.63% and $1,324.79{\mu}M$, respectively. Further, the tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activity of the C30m extract at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ are 61.32, and 61.06%, respectively. Our results indicate that the Castanea crenata inner shell extracts processed by enzyme treatment followed by pressurized extraction could have beneficial effects on facial skin and they should be considered for use in new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.187-193
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• 2019

The newly bred Picnic apple was extracted using water and ethanol for extracting solvent. Each water and ethanol extract showed relatively high phenolic compound of 3.69 and 5.55 mg/g. Each water and ethanol extract of Picnic apple showed 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl of 88.10 and 88.07%, 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) of 98.79 and 97.25%, antioxidant protection factor of 2.07 and 2.00 PF and thiobarbituric acid reactive substances showed anti-oxidation effect of 9.69 and 19.83% all at $100{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. Therefore extract of Picnic apple can be considered as anti-oxidant for anti-aging. The anti-inflammatory effect (hyaluronidase inhibition) of extract of Picnic apple were 4.62% with water extract and 4.39% with ethanol extract both at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. Both water and ethanol extract showed low ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibition effect but each showed 67.37 and 79.16% of ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibition effect at $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics concentration. In anti-wrinkle effect, water extract showed each 23.70 and 66.29% in elastase inhibition and collagenase inhibition and ethanol extract showed 64.83 and 65.70% each. These result show high potential for functional food and cosmetic source. Picnic apple was identified to have various functions of anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle effect, and anti-diabetic effect. Therefore, Picnic apple is qualified as a source for new functional cosmetics and functional foods.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.199-208
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• 2019

This study reports water-resistant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based sunscreening formulations prepared using a poly(ethylene glycol)-poly(${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone)-poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG-PCL-PEG) triblock polymeric surfactant. As a result of a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as swimming and hiking, consumer needs for development of advanced water-resistant sunscreen formulations are increasing. Water-resistant sunscreens are mostly based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, because they should not be wiped off by water or sweat. However, the W/O emulsion formulations have a disadvantage in that the feeling of use is oily and difficult to remove. On the other hand, the O/W emulsion formulations are excellent in achieving the better skin feel as well as the easier removal. However, it is difficult to provide the O/W emulsion formulations with the water-repelling performance, since re-emulsification likely occurs upon getting touch with water. To solve this problem, this study proposes a O/W emulsion-based sunscreen formulation, a triblock polymeric surfactant having relatively high interfacial tension HLB value (~ 10). This allows the sunscreen formulations to exhibit the improved water repellence function by preventing their re-emulsification. The sunscreen formation system prepared in this study would be useful for diversification of functional sunscreen products, taking advantages of its excellent emulsion stability, UV protection performance, long lasting water-resistant function and selective cleansing effect with only foam cleanser.

• Korean Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.185-200
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• 2022

The risk of various hazardous substances in aquatic environment comprises not only the concentration of substances in the environmental medium but also their accumulation in fish through complex food web and the health risks to humans through the fish. In Korea, the monitoring of residual toxicant in aquatic ecosystems began in 2016 following the enforcement of the Acts on registration and evaluation for the management of chemicals used in daily life (consumer chemical products), and attention has been paid to potentially hazardous substances attributed to them. Recently, studies have been carried out to investigate the distribution of these hazardous substances in the ecosystem and calculate their emission factors. These include the accumulation and transport of substances, such as detergents, dyes, fragrances, cosmetics, and disinfectants, within trophic levels. This study summarizes the results of recently published research on the inflow and distribution of hazardous substances from consumer chemical products to the aquatic environment and presents the scientific implication. Based on studies on aquatic environment monitoring techniques, this study suggests research directions for monitoring the residual concentration and distribution of harmful chemical substances in aquatic ecosystems. In particular, this study introduces the directions for research on trophic position analysis using compound specific isotope analysis and trophic magnification factors, which are needed to fulfill the contemporary requirements of selecting target fish based on the survey of major fish that inhabit domestic waters and assessment of associated health risk. In addition, this study provides suggestions for future biota monitoring and chemical research in Korea.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

in the cosmetics and medical supply field as a antioxidant material. The stable nano particle emulsion of skin toner type containing VEA was prepared. To evaluate the skin permeation, experiments on VEA permeation to the skin of the ICR outbred albino mice (12 weeks, about 50 g, female) and on differences of solubility as a function of receptor formulations was performed. The analysis of nano-emulsions containing VEA 0.07 % showed that the higher ethanol contents the larger emulsions were formed, while the higher surfactant contents the size became smaller.In this study, vitamin E acetate (VEA, tocopheryl acetate), a lipid-soluble vitamin which is widely used A certain contents of ethanol in receptor phase increased VEA solubility on the nano-emulsion. When the ethanol contents were 10.0 % and 20.0 %, the VEA solubility was higher than 5.0 % and 40.0 %, respectively. The type of surfactant in receptor solution influenced to VEA solubility. The comparison between three kind surfactants whose chemical structures and HLB values are different, showed that solubility of VEA was increased as order of sorbitan sesquioleate (Arlacel 83; HLB 3.7) > POE (10) hydrogenated castor oil (HCO-10; HLB 6.5) > sorbitan monostearate (Arlacel 60; HLB 4.7). VEA solubility was also shown to be different according to the type of antioxidant. In early time, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was similar to those of other samples including other types of antioxidants. However, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was 2 times higher than others after 24 h. Franz diffusion cell experiment using mouse skin was performed with four nano-emulsion samples which have different VEA contents. The emulsion of 10 wt% ethanol was shown to be the most permeable at the amount of 128.8 ${\mu}g/cm^2$. When the result of 10 % ethanol content was compared with initial input of 220.057 ${\mu}g/cm^2$, the permeated amount was 58.53 % and the permeated amount at 10 % ethanol was higher 45.0 % and 15.0 % than the other results which ethanol contents were 1.0 and 20.0 wt%, respectively. Emulsion particle size used 0.5 % surfactant (HCO-60) was 26.0 nm that is one twentieth time smaller than the size of 0.007 % surfactant (HCO-60) at the same ethanol content. Transepidermal permeation of VEA was 54.848 ${\mu}g/cm^2$ which is smaller than that of particlesize 590.7 nm. Skin permeation of nano-emulsion containing VEA and difference of VEA solubility as a function of receptor phase formulation were determined from the results. Using these results, optimal conditions of transepidermal permeation with VEA were considered to be set up.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2020

This study was performed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activities of 70% ethanol extract from Ambrosia trifida L. (AT). The electron donating ability and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability of extract from AT was shown to be 84.1% and 92.5% at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration. The astringent effect of extract from AT was shown to be 94.7% at 1,000 ㎍/ml. The anti- inflammatory activities of extract of AT were investigated using RAW 264.7 cells induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS). The cell toxicity effect of AT extract on RAW 264.7 performed MTT assay. As a result of the measured cell toxicity effect, 90% or more was shown with cell viability at a 500 ㎍/ml concentration. In nitric oxide synthesis inhibition effect, it was shown that extract from AT concentration dependent inhibited nitric oxide production. The protein expression inhibitory effect of AT extract was measured by western blot at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentration and the β-actin used as a positive control. Consequently, the inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 protein expression inhibitory effect was decreased by 8.6%, 25.1% at 100 ㎍/ml concentration. The phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2, p38, c-Jun NH₂-terminal kinase and Iκ-Bα protein expression inhibitory effect was a decreased dependent concentration. The mRNA expression inhibitory effect was measured by reverse transcription - polymerase chain reaction at 25, 50, and 100 ㎍/ml concentration and the glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase used as a positive control. Consequently, the iNOS, COX-2, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α mRNA expression inhibition effect was a decreased dependent concentration in an LPS-activated macrophage. In conclusion, AT extract may have some effects on inflammatory factors as potential anti-inflammatory agents and natural substance for cosmetics.

• Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.117-124
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• 2018

The imports of Centella asiatica L. Urban are increasing year-by-year due to the fact that its extract is a raw material used for skin wounds and in cosmetics. However, studies on the cultivation and identification of native C. asiatica species in Korea have been extremely rare. Therefore, this study was conducted in order to investigate the physiological and functional activity of Korean native C. asiatica plant cultivated in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea. As a result, the highest antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities were examined with methanol extract while skin-whitening and wrinkle improvement were examined with water extract. Seven bacterium and one fungus were treated with 50% methanol extracts of C. asiatica and most of the bacterium showed similar or low levels of antibacterial activity compared to the control group of Omiza (Schisandra chinensis) extract, except for Streptococcus pyogenes, which showed higher antimicrobial activity than that of Omiza extract. However, neither C. asiatica and Omiza extracts showed antimicrobial activity against the fungus, C. albicans. The results of anti-inflammatory effect analyses with Raw 264.7 cells confirmed that the treatment of methanol extract reduced the level of NO by 50% or more compared to the control group. In addition, the water extract showed the highest reduction of melanin content of up to 20% more than the control group when examined with B16F10 cell line, indicating a significant skin-whitening effect. Furthermore, we were able to show the significant skin wrinkle improvement caused by C. asiatica extract with NHDF cell as an indicator, but strong cytotoxicity was also observed, suggesting that further studies are necessary.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.571-582
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• 2004

Recently the well-being, which is regarded as the new cultural code, has brought a new change in the cosmetic industry. The application of the functional products is getting mere and lots of functional cosmetics are now diversifying from the skin-care into the make-up as well as the herbal products. So the future in the market of functional cosmetic products is prospected to be positive. Therefore, cosmetic companies need an approach bases on the concept of the well-being. So to speak, they need to understand the needs of customers accurately from the customers point of view. Also it is a crucial issue that how the unique characteristics of functional cosmetic products as well as the development of products base on the concept of well-being make in balance. In this study, we attempt to inspect the advanced domestic market of the functional products due to the well-being trend and try to propose an option of making an advance it through the customers survey (for example, their need and their satisfaction on the functional products, etc) on the functional cosmetic products. For this purpose, it has been surveyed on adult female customers aged 19 to 60 located in Seoul and Gyeonggi province. 379 questionnaires among 510 were used in the final analysis. Collected data was analyzed using the statistical package for the social science (SPSS) program that can give the information about the general characteristics of the subjects like the frequency and percentage. And we used Cronbach's u reliability test, $x^2\;(chi-square)$ frequency analysis, t-test, and one-wat ANOVA to investigate the customers need, their degree of the satisfaction on the functional products of their own, factors of their perception on the quality on them. We think that the results of our study can act not only as the fundamental data on the customers need, their usage pattern, and their degree of the satisfaction, but also as the important tips of planning the marketing strategies.