• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권7호
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• pp.828-840
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• 2011

Fine art and clothes have been closely connected since art became part of civilization. However, there relationship was one-sided rather than exchanging the essence of each other. In the $20^{th}$ century, modern art began to change. Artists started intervening clothes in their work as conceptual tools. In the 1960s, Marcel Duchamp started to study 'what is fine art?' He tried to perform anti-aesthetic work that denies traditional types and contents of fine art by reconsidering a concept of fine art that started a new chapter of conceptual art in the late $20^{th}$ century. Conceptual art is about concepts and ideas of the work rather than aesthetic and material concerns for the challenges traditional ideas. Conceptual art asks audiences for more active reactions. For these reasons, semi logical ideas and clothes became very important to conceptual art. This study categorizes and analyzes various roles of clothes in conceptual art. Conceptual arts since 1960 were studied in this research and the works of clothes were intervened were analyzed. The types of using clothes in conceptual art can be divided into 'ready made,' 'intervention,' 'data type,' 'language,' and 'action and process.' The different types were mixed together rather than used alone. Conceptual artists tried to deliver the characteristics and attributions of modern society through clothes. They expressed criticism of political society, anti war movements, absence caused by death, new lives, violated femininity, changed meanings of marriage, and absence of individual rights under the social system in their work. Clothes played their roles as concepts of various things including violated femininity, illusions of politicians, autocracy, new lives, social systems, and regulations.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2013

The root of cultural and artistic diversity of modern society goes hand in hand with the appearance of new art concepts that started during the social and cultural turmoil. These concepts crossed the boundaries of traditional and universal aesthetic concepts and value criteria. Since there is a close relationship between the fashion industry and the cultural flow of its times, the purpose of this study is to investigate the influences and applications of conceptual art, which became one of the big frameworks of contemporary art on fashion. The study thus sets out to develop and analyze the collections of Hussein Chalayan and Martin Margiela, who were fashion designers that pursued conceptual and ideal values, from the perspective of conceptual art. The goal was to examine the conceptual thoughts they sought after, and to understand their expressive determinations that they pursued conceptually as well as the superficial formativeness of their works. The characteristics according to the expressive methods and conceptual intentions of conceptual art that specified concepts and ideas were as follows: readymade symbolized objects, expanded intervention, data form from process of changing and implementation, and language as visual metaphors. Then those characteristics of conceptual art were used in this study to analyze the collections of Chalayan and Margiela. As a result, both designers applied and mixed many characteristics of the expressive methods of conceptual art. In modern society, art and fashion share a cultural identity and it can be said that it is an accurate reflection of the time. They are not separate genres. Just like the unique flow of modern society that creates new concepts through mixture and infusion of different disciplines, fashion is included in the domain of art. In addition, understanding and studying other disciplines can make a huge contribution to the growth and development of fashion.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

• 한국융합학회논문지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2020

본 연구의 목적은 최근 패션에서 사용하는 타이포그래피 표현을 개념 미술의 관점에서 분석하고 의미를 밝히는 것이다. 이를 위해 연구의 주요 개념인 타이포그래피와 개념 미술을 이론적으로 고찰하고 개념 미술의 표현 특징인 레디메이드(ready-made), 자료 형식(documentation), 개입(intervention), 언어를 분석의 틀로 패션 타이포그래피에 적용하였다. 결과 레디메이드는 타 브랜드의 시각적 정체성을 차용하거나 변형하는 방식으로 나타나며 자료 형식은 제품에 동어 반복적 혹은 모순적 텍스트를 병치하는 방식으로 활용된다. 개입은 맥락적으로 무관한 브랜드의 시각 아이덴티티를 차용할 때 더욱 복잡한 층위의 의미를 발생시키며 나타난다. 언어는 환경, 윤리적 소비, 젠더 문제 등 동시대의 사회적 이슈에 대한 발언의 도구로 사용된다. 본 연구를 통해 패션 디자인에서 타이포그래피는 효과적인 마케팅 수단이자 사회적 발언의 매체가 될 수 있으며 흥미로운 시각 표현 방식이자 새로운 의미를 발생시킬 수 있는 가능성으로 확대될 수 있음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 예술경영연구
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• 제51호
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• pp.167-190
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• 2019

예술가에게 있어 저작권은 자신의 창작성을 공식적·법률적으로 확정하는 것과 창작에 대한 경제적 가치를 담보하는 제도로서의 유용성이 있다. 그러나 예술 개념의 불확정성은 저작권의 법률로서의 안정성을 취약하게 만드는 원인이 된다. 본 논문은 저작권이 순수예술분야, 특히 현대 시각예술의 분야에 적용될 때 어떤 한계가 있는가를 이론적으로 분석한다. 저작권법의 한계는 근본적으로는 예술 정의의 불확정성에 있는데 다음과 같은 두 개의 차원에서 문제가 된다. 첫 번째는 예술의 정의와 저작권법의 정의에 있어서 공히 문제가 되는 표현과 아이디어의 이분법이다. 표현과 아이디어의 개념적 구분이 실제로 가능한가의 문제를 예술철학의 차원에서 고찰해본다. 두번째는 예술에 대한 새로운 정의가 문제가 될 때이다. 개념예술은 표현와 아이디어의 이분법이 불가능하다는 연장 선상에서 발생하는 것으로서 개념이 예술이 될 때 발생하는 문제를 지적한다. 공공예술이나 참여예술은 예술창작의 결과물보다는 창작의 과정에서 발생하는 예술작품에 대한 관점과 태도를 변화가 초래하는 저작권의 문제를 제기한다. 이러한 분석은 예술가의 경제적 권리확보 수단으로서의 저작권의 불완전성을 성찰하고 이를 보완하기 위한 제도적 방안을 탐색하는 근거가 된다는 점을 제시한다.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.291-300
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• 2015

The Netherlands' contemporary Art Furniture has drawn large attention from design and art fields all around the world because of Dutch designers' intriguing themes and experimental approaches. Its successful achievement not comes from certain policies or personalities, but the result of ceaseless internal criticisms and self examinations. After World War II, Modernism was the most common notion of furniture design for mass production in the Netherlands like other nations, but Dutch designers and critics put modernist canon up for discussion since 1960s. They have searched counter modernist design for expression of human element and warmth using art works, craft, and Postmodernism theory, etc. Throughout design debate of modernism, free design, design as art and conceptual design, now we could observe Dutch designer's unique and distinguished Art Furniture in the influential places. By analyzing the development of the Netherlands' contemporary Art Furniture in chronological sequences, we could understand them better and learn something useful to Art Furniture in South Korea.

• 기록학연구
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• 제80호
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• pp.197-232
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• 2024

이 연구는 미술계에 확산하고 있는 아카이브 아트를 이해하고, 이를 통해서 기록을 새롭게 바라보기 위한 것이다. 아카이브 아트는 기록을 표현 매체로 활용해서 이루어지는 미술 창작과 전시 행위를 일컫는다. 아카이브 아트는 동시대 미술의 한 경향을 형성하면서 전시와 작품 창작의 방법으로 주목받고 있다. 아카이브 아트는 개념미술의 대두에서 비롯된 미술 창작 방법의 변화, 사진을 비롯한 미디어의 발전과 디지털 기술의 약진, 푸코와 데리다의 아카이브에 대한 담론의 영향 속에서 태동하였다. 1920년대 사진미학에서 비롯된 아카이브와 미술의 만남은 개념미술과 디지털 기술 그리고 포스트모더니즘의 확산에 힘입어서 1990년대에는 동시대 미술의 아카이브 전환을 불러왔다. 아카이브 아트는 전통적인 미술 창작 방법을 전복하는 것뿐만 아니라, 근대적 아카이브를 비롯한 사회제도에 대한 비판과 해체를 포함하고 있다. 아카이브 아트는 작가의 의도에 따라 기록을 재배열하고, 재구성하고, 심지어 사실이 아닌 허구까지 수용한다. 아카이브 아트에서의 기록의 본질은 과거의 재현이 아니라 현재의 필요에 대한 표현이다. 아카이브 아트의 기록의 활용 방식은 기록학에서의 기록의 개념을 뒤흔들면서, 법적, 행정적 가치뿐만 아니라 미학적 가치를 지닌 대상으로서 기록을 새롭게 바라볼 것을 요구하고 있다.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2003년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.160-165
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• 2003

Art of today is expressed in various images incorporated in industrial development and visible in industrial parks, modern cities. Avant garde art and modernism brought abstract and conceptual art into conflict in the early 20th century and they absorbed elements of each other and grew into post modernism, which emerged in the 1960s and is still current. The avant garde challenged what was lofty and sometimes opposed modernism and sometimes fed it in cycles until post modernism was established. 'Trans avant garde', which, unlike modernism asserted individual expression, also appeared in the 1970s. Trans avant garde is spiritual art in which the artist's conversation with his soul returns. This study examines the readjustments the trans avant garde is making in its relationship with the dominant ethos of different values and offers the world art with important spiritual beauty. Trans avant garde art takes many forms, from thing to huge, which are manifested every where in architecture, interior design and everyday life.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.50-61
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• 2014

Fashion has been compared to art since Japanese avant-garde fashion designers expanded the thoughts about conceptual fashion in late 1970s. The fashion designers focused on the materiality of fashion textiles by placing more importance on it than the shapes. This bears a striking resemblance to contemporary art of 1960s and 1970s as many artists used soft materials like felt, fabric, rubber to emphasize themselves. This study establishes the materiality of fabric, which can be found in both contemporary art and fashion. The classification of materiality consists of flexibility, humanizing and temporality. In this work, there is a significant disparity between contemporary art and fashion.