• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.447-461
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to develop a torso pattern that is highly representative for the proper body shape of women in their thirties. Size data of the women with age of 30 through 39 from the database of Size Korea 2004 were used for the study. In order to develop a master pattern which will be used as the benchmark for grading of research group, 4 existing torso block drafting methods were compared based on the data gathered and the block with the highest evaluation score was utilized as a reference point. For the analysis, data was divided into four types, only the data of 138 subjects which were evaluated at least by four or more experts as valid were used for the study. The major results can be summarized as follow. The women of bust girth of 91cm and height of 160cm which was turned out to be representative type of research group were used as standard measurement for the purpose of reflecting not only curve length of the 3D analysis measurement but also the difference between front and back thickness to the pattern. Dart locations were set based on front and back torso ease, shoulder area revisions, front sagging length 1.5cm and cross section crevice length analysis. According to the experts' appearance evaluation of the pattern was found to be better than the control pattern which was regarded as the best among 4 patterns created based on existing torso block drafting methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.1
• /
• pp.120-136
• /
• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.1
• /
• pp.76-89
• /
• 2012

This study was performed to offer the basic data for the design of farm shoes. 265 Korean female farmers aging between the 40s to the 80s volunteered for this study and we measured 40 items on each foot with the 3D foot scanner. First, the differences between farmers' feet and non-farmers' feet were analyzed. Farmers' feet were thicker in the instep areas, but had lower arch height than non-farmers' feet. In addition, farmer's feet were tilted to the inside. Next, eight factors were extracted among the 40 measuring items, and the classification criteria of the foot shape was analyzed. The important factors were: size of foot length and volume of ankle, malleolus height and size, volume of the front part of ankle, medial & lateral ball width, and vertical size of foot. Third, three clusters according to the foot shapes were categorized by cluster analysis of eight factor scores. Foot type 1 was medium in foot length, big in thickness, large in lateral ball width, small in toe 1 angle, and tilted to the inside. Foot type 2 was long and slim, and big in toe 5 angle. Foot type 3 was short in foot length, medium in volume of the front part of ankle, large in medial ball width, and big in toe 1 angle. Despite its shortness, foot type 3 was thick and showed severe deformation in toe 1. Lastly, the frequency distributions of the foot types in each age group were analyzed. Female farmers of the forties showed high frequency in type 1 and other age groups showed high frequency in type 2. The older female farmers showed higher frequency of type 3.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.71-86
• /
• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.671-685
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.53-62
• /
• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.117-130
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this research focuses mainly on the establishment of: the image of the police that can be adopted to meet the demands of reality through the development of the design of policewomen's uniform in the times that require reestablishment of the image of the police; the image of the police that is appropriate for the organic structure of the society; and the image of the police that cooperate with the citizens. For background research I have considered the police and their uniforms from a theoretical point of view and have examined the process by which Korean policewomen's uniforms have changed. Actual research was carried out policewomen of Seoul Regional Police Station, was conducted and the results were utilized to figure out what the problem was. This research suggests an improvement measure by making four suits of summer and spring-and-autumn work-uniforms, and six suits of spring-andautumn and winter full-dress uniform. First the colors of work-uniforms and full-dress uniforms are not blue, which incites a feeling of coldness and stiffness, but are colors that are feminine and emit warmth---red, ivory, khaki, black, and beige. second pure, natural fiber is difficult to wash and is not an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms when considering its cost and etc., fabrics that are a mix of synthetic fiber and natural fiber were chosen. Because mixed fabrics are cheaper and their ability to maintain shape is superior to that of natural fiber, mixed fabric is an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms. third the feminine image of policewomen was considered; therefore, masculine image, which is rigid and strong, was avoided and the image was expressed in a serene and beautiful way. Also slim line was added to the current uniforms to emphasize feminine beauty. The conclusion of this study is that police officers in the 21st century want to be seen as the citizens cane and benevolent volunteers that live together with the citizens, not as suppressive and powerful people.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.76-86
• /
• 2020

The study surveyed patients undergoing a mastectomy to understand their experience and requirements on artificial breasts and sales status. We retrieved 149 of the 150 surveyed questionnaires; subsequently, 144 questionnaires, excluding missing values, were used in the analysis. According to the results of the study, about 67% of respondents said that artificial breasts were not used after undergoing a mastectomy, and more than half of the breast cancer patients were not aware of the importance of artificial breasts. Breast cancer patients wearing artificial breast felt uncomfortable and hot during daily activities as well as experienced difficulty in size selection and purchase price burdens. The three most responded brands were selected based on the results of the survey that also investigated the sales status of the commercial artificial breast. Company A was selling artificial breast to reflect the consumer's functional requirements, and Company C was selling artificial breast with various kinds of reduced weight. However, it is thought that consumers will have less choice since artificial breasts have more limited forms than various types. Therefore, it is believed that the patient needs artificial breasts that satisfy the shape of various types of mastectomy. This study can be used as basic data for artificial breast development studies.