• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.485-492
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• 2010

This thesis analyzes the proportion and disproportion of faces through visual analysis and measured value for women faces in 20s and 60s.. The proportion of bizygion breadth and face height is 1 : 1.34 in 20s and 1 : 1.39 in 60s which shows face height is ling in 60s, and 0.85 : 1 : 1 for upper face length, middle face length and lower face length in 20s which shows the proportion of upper face length and lower face length are long while they are 0.84 : 1 : 1.06 in 60s which shows lower face length is long and upper face length is short. If the proportion of the face is more than $2^{\circ}$ which is severe imbalance, angle of eyes is 8% in 20s, 13% in 60s, and angle of nasal is 11% in 20s, 29% in 60s, angle of mouse is 11% in 20s and 40% in 60s, showing imbalance of 60s is severe. As above, It shows that face height is longer in 60s than in 20s and lower face is long among others because face's change due to aging. Also, We able to know that face's imbalance is severer in 60s than in 20s.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.41-60
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were 1)to examine the conceptual structure of purchasing motives and information seeking of beauty service, 2)to find out the effects of purchasing motives on information seeking, and 3)to investigate the differences of purchasing motives and information seeking according to the demographic variables. The questionnaire was developed based on pretest and previous studies, and completed by 331 female consumers living in Seoul and Busan. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Cronbach's a, regression analysis, Pearson's correlation, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results are as follows; First, factor analysis showed that the purchasing motives of beauty services consisted of five factors, such as Fashionableness, Impulse purchase, Special event, Mood & Recreation, and Practical purchasing needs. And the information seeking for beauty services consisted of four factors, such as Mass media, Opinions of neighbors, Experience & Observation, and Sales hook. Second, mass media was effected by fashionableness, impulse purchase, special event, and mood & recreation. Experience & Observation was effected by fashionableness, special event, and mood & recreation. Sales hook was effected by fashionableness, and impulse purchase. Third, the dimensions of purchasing motives and information seeking of beauty service were significantly different according to age, marriage or unmarried, and duties.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.14 no.8
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• pp.793-800
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• 2005

We isolated and identified microorganisms from the aerial environment of domestic museums. The fungi, Penicillium spp., Alternaria spp., and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in many museums. It seems that these fungi are related to biological degradation of textile remains. A total of 14 kinds of bacterial strains were isolated: Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., Alcaligenes spp., Shigella spp., Klebsiella spp., Corynebacterium spp., Aerococcus spp., Bacillus spp., Micrococcus spp., Citrobacter spp., Erwinia spp., Salmonella spp., and Providencia spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., and Alcaligenes spp. were the predominate bacteria found in samples with a variety of bacteria. This suggests that there is a relationship between bacteria and the damage of textile remains. In the museum, we isolated Alternaria spp, Geotrichum spp., Penicillium spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Alcaligenes spp. from the entrance, exhibit hall and storage, but they were found in smaller number and species in the exhibit cases and paulownia cases. We concluded that paulownia cases were not influenced by the microorganisms because of quality of care provided by the museum staff. Corynebacterium spp., and Bacillus spp. were not detected at the entrance and exhibit hall but were detected in paulownia cases. It is presumed that those bacteria did not flow in from outside, but resulted from contaminants in paulownia cases. In the distribution of microorganisms associated with textile remains, more fungi were detected than bacteria. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., and Neisseria spp., were isolated from silk items. Penicillium spp. and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in the silk and hump items. Aspergillus spp. and Penicillium spp. were isolated from the cotton items. On the other hands, there were no fungi strains in the wool items. Most of the isolated strains from textile remains were aerial microorganisms from the museum environment. These results suggest that textile remains were apt to contaminated by contact with the air.

• Asia-Pacific Journal of Business Venturing and Entrepreneurship
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.97-105
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• 2015

This study aims to investigate the impacts of small venture firms' capabilities on their international performance and the role of environmental dynamics in these relationships. Specifically, the study examines how international marketing, technology, and network capabilities of small venture firms influence their international performance and how market and technology turbulences moderates these relationships. Employing 162 small venture firms in Korea, the result of multiple regression analysis found that marketing capability did not affect international performance while technology and network capabilities had positive, significant impacts on international performance. Market turbulence was found to have a negative moderation effect on the relationship of network capability and international performance. Technology turbulence had a negative moderation effect on the relationship of technology capability and international performance and a positive moderation effect on the relationship of network capability and international performance. The findings confirm the importance of capabilities in improving the international performance of small venture firms and generate strategic implications for their international success by emphasizing the effect of environmental dynamics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

This study examines the social meaning of the CosPlay, the growth potential of CosPlay culture and its effect on the related industry through the perspectives and language of the youths who enjoy CosPlay, based on the ethnographic research. Also, this study presents a comparative description of Korea and Japan CosPlay culture by the ethnographic methodology whose purpose is to define relationship of cause and effect with phenomenon. For further step, this study plans to emphasize the need to link culture, clothes and related industry in order to create a cultural environment where diversity co-exists. CosPlay is the mania culture of Japan that emulated the Halloween party of the West and that developed the party into a unique form. In Korea, this practice was accepted for the first time among a handful of youths, starting from the 1990s, after which, it was introduced to the masses while holding CosPlay related events. While CosPlay is succeeded as an industry in Japan, CosPlay in Korea is considered childish play due to the Korean culture of considering cartoon as a childish and low class genre which is enjoyed by youths. CosPlay in Korea faces the following changes: aging of the members who comprised the CosPlay culture at the initial stage; population increase, centered on middle and high school students; interest of the government and the businesses that wish to produce economic wealth by organizing CosPlay events into events for youths; and changes in the environment that comprised the surrounding of the CosPlay culture. CosPlay is an honest play that demonstrates one's effort on the stage through performance. Moreover, most of the middle and high school students who comprise the CosPlay culture demonstrate similar characteristics as mania type of people when it came to the reason that they enjoy CosPlay. However, they did not consider CosPlay culture as an important aspect of their lives. Instead, most of them said that they participate to relieve stress. Thus, they have the potential to move onto another form of youth culture that may appear more attractive to them. To them, it is not the CosPlay culture that is important, but the fact that CosPlay provides a forum where they can freely engage in play.