• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.45
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2013

Today's technology enables consumers to trade millions of dollars, conduct online banking, access entertainment, and do countless other activities at the click of a button. Online social networks (OSN) have become a cultural phenomenon that allows for individualistic consumerism. Consumers are increasingly utilizing OSN to share ideas, build communities, and contact fellow consumers who are similar to themselves. The relevance of online communities to the music is immense especially because musicians are now using social media to build global audiences. Not only is information about music and performance disseminated online, but musical commodities are sold and traded online. Online music communities allow consumers to elect and create new identities online through the purchase of subcultural commodities. Given the growing economic importance of online music communities it is important to get a holistic view of subcultural communities online. This study utilized content analysis of online music community websites using the Netnography methodology as developed by Kozinet for data collection to analyze consumers' purchasing and consumption behavior of subcultural commodities online as related to the formation of subcultural identities. Findings showed that subcultural items are predominantly purchased online, especially digital music, and there is a need for more custom craft items. The authors presented a new conceptual taxonomy of online subcultural consumer classifications based on online behavior patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.595-604
• /
• 2014

Tiffany & Co. had been recognized so highly in Korea even before its official advance to the country in 1991 that a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany'. The purpose of this study was to explain how American brand Tiffany had been spread and recognized among Korean people by analyzing related articles and advertisements during the period from the Liberation to the 1989. The research method used in this study was the articles of newspapers and relevant literature. This is the result that, with the run of movie 'Breakfast at Tiffany's in Korea in 1962, the trade name and trademark of Tiffany were used illegally not only by jewelry traders but also by other businesses. Other luxury jewelry brands in the same period could not enjoy indirect advertising and spillover effects as good as Tiffany. As a result, a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany' in 1989, and the expression is still valid in the country.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.19-29
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.147-165
• /
• 1973

One of the characteristics of feudal society is the control of the dress and ornamentation which stand for various social classes and personal relationships. Throughout the Yi-Dynasty, certain forms of dress and ornamentation were controlled or prohibited by the government. For instance, there was a Ban on the use of gold and silver for ornaments and silks or satins for dresses, and the violator was subject to severe punishment according to the penal laws. This seems to have been done more for symbolism and the dignity of the various social ranks and powers than as an economic measure against foreign products. The use of yellow cloth, for instance, was once banned out of blind submission to the traditional practices in China, then the most powerful nation in Asia. The working classes were prohibited to use any silks of foreign production. This was done to discourage a spirit of wasteful luxury and the tendency to prefer the often higher quality foreign product. The government regulated the class of the traditional wedding ceremony, again as a means of both encouraging economy and reestablishing the distinctions between the classes. In spite of these attempts at control by the government a large trade in smuggled goods was still carried out. This had the effect of impeding the development of the clothing industry in the country.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Electrical and Electronic Material Engineers
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.525-530
• /
• 2023

Stretchable piezoelectric energy harvester (S-PEHs) based on composite materials are considered one of the potential candidates for realizing wearable self-powered devices for smart clothing and electronic skin. However, low energy conversion performance and expensive stretchable electrodes are major bottlenecks hindering the development and application of S-PEHs. Here, we fabricated the S-PEH by adopting the piezoelectric composites with enhanced stress transfer properties and kirigami-patterned textile electrodes. The optimum contents of piezoelectric BaTiO₃ nanoparticles inside the carbon nanotube/ecoflex composite were selected as 30 wt% considering the trade-off between stretchability and energy harvesting performance of the device. The final S-PEH shows an output voltage and mechanical stability of ~5 V and ~3,000 cycles under repeated 150% of tensile strain, respectively. This work presents a cost-effective and scalable way to fabricate stretchable piezoelectric devices for self-powered wearable electronic systems.

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.21-42
• /
• 1998

This paper aims at examining the regional comparison of the business organization of retailing in the Seoul and Taegu metropolitan areas, as an attempt to understand regional structure of retailing within metropolitan areas which represents the suburbanization. On the national level, retail sales have concentrated on larger metropolitan area, the Seoul metroplitan area, the first largest metropolitan area, having higher sales for population scale. While the Taegu metropolitan area, the third largest metropolitan area, appears to lower retail sales for population scale. In order to confirm such phenomenon, this paper is to analyze and to compare the industrial composition of retailing by industry in 1991 of Seoul with that of Taegu. And this paper is to analyze the regional comparison of business organization of retailing: the percents of establishments under four employees, of juridical establishments, of employees of ordinary times, the annual sales per establishment of retailing. And the characteristics of business organization of retailing by industry are analyzed by principal components analysis, and the explanation of the types with component in each district(city, county, ward) is analyzed by cluster analysis(Ward method). The data of 1991 were obtained from the statistics in the Report on Establishment Census(Vol.3 Wholesale and Retail Trade) published by the National Statistics Office. The results are as follows: 1. The composition of retailing by industry in Seoul metropolitan area by annual sales in 1991 is characterized as appeared very higher composition rates of retailing of textiles, clothing, footwear and apparel accessaries', ‘retailing of furniture, home furnishings and equipment’, retailing of jewellery and watches’, ‘retailing of printed matter and stationery’, ‘retailing of personal transport equipment and gasoline service stations’, and ‘general merchandise stores’. But in Taegu metropolitan area, ‘retailing of food, beverages and tobacco’, ‘retailing of drugs, cosmetics and other chemical goods’, 'retailing household fuel’, and ‘genernal retail trade, n.e.c.’appears very high. Therefore Seoul metropolitan area has larger business scale and retailing of shopping goods has developed than Taegu metropolitan area.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.35
• /
• pp.45-66
• /
• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.897-907
• /
• 2014

The purposes of this study are to classify consumption values and to examine the effects of consumption values on appearance management behaviors. Questionnaires data was obtained through adults over 20 years old of age (N=478) in Gyeonggi-do, Daegu and Kyungpook regions. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, multiple regression analysis, t-test and ANOVA were applied. The results of this study are as follows. First, consumption values are composed of three factors such as differential value, material value and practical value. Appearance management behaviors are identified such as surgery/skin care, clothing care, weight training and hair care. The weight training in appearance management behaviors is the most preferred behavior. Second, the results of regression analysis are like as follows: The effects of consumption on plastic surgery/skin care are explained by the differential value, material value and practical value(-). On weight training and hair care, the differential value and material value have positively significant effects. The differential value has significant effects on all over appearance management behaviors. Third, there are signigicant differences in consumption values and appearance management behaviors according to demographic variables. The single, females in 20s and 30s with higher monthly income and payment have higher differential value and lower practical value. The single and female in 20s and 30s were more involved in appearance management behavior.