• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.722-732
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• 2018

This study was to develop a dress form that is highly representative of the body shapes of senior men in their 50s and 60s. And this research was compared the measurements and forms of three different dress forms available in the market, in order to analyze the body type and suitability and provide a standard for developing and utilizing the dress forms. After extracting the body shapes of the senior men's 3D shape, the body type that is curvature on the back prevalent among senior men, was chosen. The dress form was created as follows: 3D modeling and rendering, printing with a FDM-type 3D printer. The dress forms were 3D-scanned and the 3D data was analyzed - classification drop value, area deviation, compared horizontal section and vertical section. The results were as follows: This suggested that the area deviation amount at the chest and hip circumference levels was larger in the commercial products than in the dress form in this study, while that at the waist circumference level was larger in the dress form in this study. The vertical length of the lateral shoulder point-waist circumference was smaller, the side shape showed severe curvature on the back, and the waist circumference was larger in the senior men dress form than the commercial products. The dress form developed in this study reflected the body type of senior men and, therefore, were suitable for fitting when creating clothes for senior men.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.834-843
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• 2020

This study develops 1/2 dress forms for draping. This study investigated the production status of domestic and foreign products in order to model their shape using CLO 3D. In addition, it developed torso-type and torso-crotch-type products that allowed for draping using a 3D printer. This study analyzed shape and size compared to developed ones after referring to the Size Korea 7th Survey data as well as seven domestic and foreign company websites. The results are follows. First, an investigation of the production status of the products for the size of most of the domestic ones (except K-4) indicated that the waist circumference was slimmer than Size Korea. Bust, waist, and hip circumferences ranged from 42.0 cm, 32.0 cm, and 45.0 cm - 49.0 cm, respectively, in Chinese products; 42.0 cm - 43.0 cm, 30.5 cm - 31.5 cm, and 46.0 cm - 46.5 cm in Japanese products; 43.0 cm, 35.0cm, and 46.5 cm in American products (Japanese body shape applied). Second, an avatar was produced on a 3D software with the average size of 20-24year-old women, and its file modified as a dress form for 3D printing with PLA filament to produce dress forms for draping, workable with pins, using quilting cotton and cotton cloth. Third, the comparisons of the form and flattening between the developed dress forms and the selling ones indicated that flattening was bigger in the waist part of the former than the latter. The waist is produced too slim in the existing dress forms; therefore, it is necessary to correct the waist circumference. Unlike existing dress forms, the developed ones were produced in proximity to the average size of 20-24 year-old women in the Size Korea 7th Survey.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.106-122
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• 2021

This study confirmed the mechanical properties of an auxetic re-entrant pattern prepared using 3D printing technology and its composite fabric with neoprene for the production of functional auxetic patterns/textiles for safety shoes. Samples were prepared by the tilt angle of a re-entrant pattern of 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°, and then analyzed using Poisson's ratio, bending, compression, and tensile properties. A 3D printed auxetic re-entrant pattern (3DP-RE) and its composite fabric (3DP-RE/NP) showed a negative Poisson's ratio in all tilting angles that indicated auxetic properties. The results of the bending property shown that strength of 3DP-RE/NP was 1.5 times lower than NP, but the strain improved 2.0 times. It was confirmed that the deformation of 3DP-RE/NP is possible with a low load. Each sample type of compression behavior indicated similar regardless of the tilting angles; in addition, the compression toughness of 3DP-RE/NP increased 1.2 times compared with NP. In the case of tensile properties, 3DP-RE and 3DP-RE/NP were affected by the tilting angle, samples with 90° (the opposite of load direction) showed best tensile property and toughness. 3DP-RE/NP indicated improved bending, compression, and tensile properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권4호
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• pp.657-671
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• 2022

This study aims to develop three dimensional (3D) yoga knee protectors that provide excellent wearing comfort. Three types of pads were modeled using 3D human data: two types of 3.0-cm-wide pads separated into top and bottom with thicknesses of 0.1 cm (TPU-1: A) and 0.2 cm (TPU-2: B); and one type with three 0.2-cm-thick separated panels (TPU-S: C). Based on these models, five knee protectors were developed using 3D patterning and 3D printing. Types A, B, and C were integrated with 0.6-cm neoprene pads. Type D was fabricated with a donut-shaped 0.6-cm neoprene pad inserted, while Type E consisted of two discrete 0.6-cm neoprene pads embedded in the protector's upper and lower sides. Wearing comfort was evaluated in terms of fit, pressure, and cushioning while in a standing and kneeling position and while in motion. The findings suggest that the fabricated knee protectors were evaluated as comfortable to the individuals with knee pain, rather than those without knee pain. The individuals with knee pain preferred the soft pads made of neoprene positioned around the knee (NEO-S: E), while those without knee pain favored the cushioned pads with a pattern structure maintained by thin 3D-printed pads (TPU-1: A).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.312-327
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• 2024

In this study, a rehabilitation 3D printed wearable device was developed by combining an assembly-type robot hand and an integral-type robot hand through fused deposition 3D printing manufacturing with various hardness TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) filaments. The hardware configuration of the robot hand includes a controller designed with four motors, one small servo motor, and a circuit board. In the case of the assembly-type robot hand model, a 3D printed robot hand was assembled using samples printed with TPU of hardness 87A and 95A. It was observed that TPU with a hardness of 95A was suitable for use due to shape stability. For the integrated-type robot hand model, the external sample using TPU of hardness 95A could be modified through a cutting method, and the hardware configuration is the same as the assembly-type. The system structure of the 3D printed robot hand was improved from an individual control method to a simultaneous transmission method.Furthermore, the system architecture of an integrated 3D printed robotic hand rehabilitation device and the application of the rehabilitation device were developed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2018

This study focused on the accessory of clothes of minority groups in Yunnan province to further the research about specific accessories' development in the future. Among the minorities in Yunnan, this study centralized characteristics of ornaments, hats and belts among five minority groups such as the Bai, Zhuang, Hani, Dai, and the Zang as representatives to study in detail because these five ethnicities have a relatively long history and plentiful information. The results are as follows: First, exaggeration means large gorgeous patterns that attract attention. Generally, there are many natural resources that can be used in places where these minority groups live such as gems, gold, silver shells and animals' horns, bone, teeth and the like. Headdress includes combs, loops, hairpins and other similar articles. Second, nature is a very fundamental part that people rely on for existence and development. The production and living that people need in life all depend on nature. The design of accessories is made from animal forms and patterns of clothes are presented through embroidery and wax printing. Designers always tried to add natural elements to their works. Third, symbolism consists of two aspects: One is the people's imagination, which related to actual materials, and the other is the product of imagination that provides better conditions to inspire people when they design. In China, most minority groups believe in Buddhism. The symbols in the clothing show their devout faith. Even the method of wear has many special implications like the use of accessories and length of clothing. The pattern of dragons and use of golden, red and other colors all have a proper symbolic significance in modern designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 1985

In order to improve dyeing and finishing technology of thin cloth of microfiber(super-fine fiber), the degrees of deep dyeing method, the light fastness, and the washing fastness were investiagted. 1. The thin cloth made of microfiber, $0.15^d\~0.2^d$, was conjugated type and the dyeing degree was lower at 5 to $10\%$ than that of cloth made of common fiber. The cloth of excellent dyeing fastness, light fastness, was developed by increasing the concentration of dye of high quality up to $5\~10\%$. 2. Because refractory rate of microfiber of $0.2^d$ was lower than that of $0.01^d$, the surface refractory rate of $0.2^d$ was lower than that of $0.01^d$ fiber. Therefore the surface of micro-fiber, $0.2^d$, was more rougher than that of $0.01^d$ and it belongs to separate type. 3. The higher degree of dyeing was increased by using dye of microparticle. Also the degree of textile printing was increased by adding urea solution ($20\%$) and glycerine diethylene glycol. 4. Light fastness was very excellent, marked 5 grade. However, washing fastness was 2$\~$3 grade. After dyeing, we could improve to 4 grade, through hot water washing including some organic chlorine solvent. 5. Super microfiber of $0.01^d$ will not be dyed by present dye and dyeing equipment, because right reflection light rate(white light) of fiber surface was too high and the more refraction rate higher the more surface refraction rate will be increased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

본 연구는 먼저 자연주의와 자연주의 복식이 무엇인가에 대하여 고찰하고 그 개념을 바탕으로 자연의 요소 중 그 화려함과 다양함을 보여 주는 나비를 선택하여 자연 소재인 데님과 접목시킴으로써 인간 체형에 자연의 형태를 입혀 자연과 친화될 수 있는 고부가가치의 현대 복식 디자인을 창출하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 그리고 디자인 도출방법으로는 요즘 디자인 작업에서 많이 활용피고 있는 CAD 시스템 중 가장 대중화되어 있는 Adove illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, Prima Vision Textile Design System을 이용하여 디자인을 하였다. 본 논문의 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 자연주의의 개념은 인간의 본질에 관심을 가지고 과학에 근거를 둔 사실적인 묘사로 객관성을 가지며 이로 인해 자연 속에서 삶의 본질을 찾고자 하는 것이다. 자연주의 복식의 개념은 천연의 가공하지 않은 소재와 자연의 색이나 천연염료의 색을 사용하고 자연의 모티브인 식물$\cdot$동물 등 자연 형상을 모티브로 하며 편안하고 자연스러운 실루엣을 의미하는 복식인 것을 알 수 있었다 그리고 나비의 뚜렷한 시각적 강조를 드러내는 구조는 어느 곤충들보다 화려하여 우리의 관심을 끌어들이는 데에 사용될 수 있고 작가가 의도하는 방향으로 발전시킬 수 있는 가능성을 확인할 수 있었다. 마지막으로 캐드를 이용한 프린팅 디자인은 수작업으로 이루어지는 일반 프린팅 기법에 비해 더욱 풍부한 색의 프린트 디자인과 다양한 시도를 할 수 있어 프린트 디자인에 더욱 많은 기회와 경제성을 제공하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.