• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.347-356
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the sizing system and size designation of ready-made jackets for women. We survey the sizing system and size labeling that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of ready-made woman's jacket. In addition, 264 tailored jackets are measured for the sake of this study. The jackets are classified into 3 groups(young, missy, and madame) according to the target age of the brand. The result shows that size labeling involves body measurements(85-94-160), size code(55, 66) or simplified letter(S, M, L). However, the correspondence of size information and ease tolerances of jackets is not consistent and each company has its own sizing system. There are significant differences among young, missy, and madame group on the bust girth of apparel in 66size code. The average apparel size piteh measurement distributions(bust girth and hip girth respectively) of young group are 9cm and 13cm in 55 size code, those of missy group are 7 em and 3 cm in 66 size code, and those of madame group are 6cm and 4cm in 77 size code. The ease of bust girth and hip girth in missy group are much more than other groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1015-1027
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• 2011

This study analyzes consumer-based apparel design elements and evaluation criteria using qualitative research methodology. Apparel design is one of the most important factors to determine consumer consumption and attitude; however, limited studies have examined them. This study provides essential cues for an apparel industry suffering from dramatically fluid market situations. Based on a qualitative analysis of the focus group interviews, researchers establish three categories (basic elements, elements generated by apparel, and elements experienced by consumer) of apparel design elements that are consistent with nine elements (shape, materials, color, pattern, detail, subsidiary materials, overall image & style, fit, and overall balance). The results provide 137 types of conceptualized apparel design evaluation criteria. They developed 56 initial themes, 23 evolved themes, 23 sub categories, and 12 kinds of theme categories with abstract conceptualization. This study explicates the critical role that consumer-based apparel design is the competitive advantage within the apparel industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.413-423
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• 2013

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.96-100
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• 2005

The bleaching is one of the worst factors which leads to the damage of the human hair. The cuticle of the human hair is injured by the alkali that is one of the chief ingredients of a bleaching agent. The alkali component of the bleaching solution chemically reacts with human hair, reducing the tenacity and dissolving the cuticle layer. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of bleaching time and temperature on the physical properties and morphology. The results were as follows. 1. The stress-strain curves for human hair indicated the three distinct regions, such as Hookean region, Yield region and post-Yield region. The tenacity of hair is reduced gradually with an increase of bleaching time. Under these same conditions, elongation of the hair increased. 2. The greatest drop in tenacity for hair occured between $40^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ of bleaching temperature. 3. Compared with the virgin hair, bleached hair showed a slower rate of weight reduction in the TGA thermogram. The rate decreased gradually as the bleaching time and temperature increased. 4. As the bleaching conditions reached time and temperature extremes, the human hair cuticle became more damaged. The cuticle layers seemed to have dissolved, as seen in the SEM photographs.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1137-1156
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• 2023

With the advent of artificial intelligence (AI) during the Fourth Industrial Revolution, the fashion industry has simplified the production process and overcome the technical difficulties of design. This study anticipates likely changes in the digital age and develops a model that will allow consumers to design textile patterns using AI technology. Previous studies and industrial examples of AI technology's use in the textile design industry were investigated, and a textile pattern was developed using an AI algorithm. A new textile design model was then proposed based on its application to both virtual and physical clothing. Inspired by traditional Korean masks and props, AI technology was used to input color data from open application programming interface images. By inserting these into various repeating structures, a textile design was developed and simulated as garments for both virtual and real garments. We expect that this study will establish a new textile design development method for Generation Z, who favor customized designs. This study can inform the use of personalization in generative textile design as well as the systemization of technology-driven methods for customized and participatory textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.856-865
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• 2010

Many efforts to develop the domestic fashion industry have continued under the influence of a rapidly changing fashion industry environment. The fashion industry has emerged as a future growth industry leading lifestyle and as a core industry for the culture biz. Since the 2000's the markets that combined party and fashion wear as a new cultural trend has grown and an in-depth study of design development for party wear is required. This study presents basic materials for design development for the future domestic woman character casual brand prior to the design development by analyzing design characteristics of domestic female character casual brands. In the research methods, nine brands were selected based on the discussion of ten fashion specialists and then the brand concept, target, configuration of items, price, and design characteristics were analyzed. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, each brand concentrated the main focus on establishing a clear and unique brand identity that meets the needs of consumers to enhance competitiveness in the woman's dress market. To enhance competitiveness, many character casual brands targeting women aged 20's and 30's (including BEART) held party wear goods exhibitions as the market for party wear has increased significantly. Second, according to study results of the selected nine brand designs, it was found that the style characteristic of each brand varies depending on concept. However, all nine brand designs developed various styles such as feminine and cute style making use of laces, ruffles, A line silhouette, colorful motifs, and a stylish style that used layers with various materials along with unique decorations based on romantic emotions. Third, seven hundred and thirty eight pictures of nine brands were analyzed by items without identifying brands. According to the result of the analysis, the percentage of items used by brands was as follows: a one-piece dress was 34.5%, jacket 25.7%, skirt and pants 15.5%, blouse and shirt 13.6%, and tops 10.6%. The result showed that one-piece dresses accounted for the highest percentage. Frill accounted for 16.6%, the highest percentage followed by ribbons at 16% in regards to detail and trimming.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.819-833
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• 2009

The current research focused on exploration of a well known Korean fashion and clothing industry cluster, Dongdaemun Fashion Town(DFT). Many clothing and fashion wholesalers in DFT with various business formats are trying to obtain competitive advantages. For the empirical study, a questionnaire was developed. Items measuring descriptive statistics for each business and contractor selection criteria were included in the survey. 161 data from Employees of various wholesalers of DFT were used for statistical analysis. Majority of DFT customers were buyers of Internet shopping malls and street retail shops. 64% of them used domestic contractors for sourcing products. Most of them managed less than three contractors. Contractor selection criteria were factorized as flexibility, production ability, stability, fame and location. Wholesalers were segmented into three groups: product oriented, flexibility oriented and stability oriented groups. Group differences in terms of business practices were assessed and strategic implications were included.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.514-525
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• 2013

Korea International Trade Association (KITA) statistics show that the import of circular-knitted clothes has suddenly increased since 2000; they have increased by 24.5% each year for 2000-2004 and by 8.2% for 2005-2009. In addition, a Korea Apparel Industry Association survey showed that more than 50% of young people in their 20s and more than 40% of mid-aged people in their 30s-40s wore T-shirts (the most frequently worn and/or regarded as the most comfortable item among knit clothes). This portion is expected to increase in the future; however, insufficient research has been conducted on the characteristics of product development and production, knit T-shirt pattern development (Park, 2011), and consumer purchase patterns and behavior for knit clothes. The evaluation criteria for knit clothes generally vary depending on the demographic characteristics of consumers (Kotler & Armstrong, 2006). This study conducted a wearing trends survey for circular-knitted T-shirts and fit satisfaction based on 318 male and female consumers in their 20s-30s. The results provide information on the basic materials required to produce circular-knitted T-shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.58-78
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• 2006

This study materializes body type measurement based on ISO(International Standard Organization)size system, targeting 1381 Chinese women, and suggests clothes size standards. It provides basic information on Chinese women size for Korean clothes companies advanced in China to strengthen the national competitiveness of Korean clothing industry. First, after the body type examination, based on the ISO's drop value, the results of types are in its decreasing order: A, M, H, and D. Second, women upper garment sizes by body types are set in the section of height 152cm, 160cm, and 168cm. Garment sizes are suggested based on the section that has more than 0.8% of appearance rate for the survey target: A, H, and M. Third, the clothes sizes of women pants are set in the section of height 152cm, 160cm, and 168cm just with the same as the upper garment.