• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.135-147
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze clothes-wearing of Chinese female university students in Hangzhou. By random sampling, a total of 183 Chinese female students in Hangzhou aged between 17 and 24 were used into data analysis from November 20, 2010 to January 20, 2011. The questionnaires consisted of 36 questions in total. The results were as follows : According to the result of the purpose of wearing clothes in winter, it was found that many female students wore clothes for a "protection purpose" or "ornamental purpose" in winter. As for the question about whether or not underwear was worn in winter, Chinese students answered that more upper underwear was worn than lower underwear. As for the question about the types of outer garments, Chinese students answered that they wore 3-layered upper garments in winter most. The upper garments worn in winter preferred most was long coat(68.3%). In the survey on the types of accessories, More Chinese students wore mufflers and gloves while less students wore hats and earmuffs.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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• 2009.04a
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• pp.103-107
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• 2009

Because individual HRTFs (Head-Related Transfer Functions) vary from a person to a person, a HRTF database has been measured by researchers to investigate the inter-subject variation, and to generate high fidelity virtual sound image. Individual HRTFs not only vary between subjects but also vary due to wearing clothes and glasses in daily life. However, influence of different dressing condition on the measured HRTF was not sufficiently investigated. To quantify the effect of wearing clothes and glasses, dummy's HRTF is measured in an anechoic chamber with various dressing condition, and is evaluated in the sense of spectral distortion. HRTFs are measured both in the median plane and in the horizontal plane. In the median plane, under 6kHz, effect of different wearing clothes and glasses is negligible. Over 6kHz, however, effect of clothing distorts HRTF about 6dB in the sense of spectral distortion. Moreover, at high frequencies, effect of glasses is no longer negligible. In the horizontal plane, at some azimuths, even additional light cloth over the dummy can change the spectrum of HRTF (6dB spectral distortion) especially when sound source is at contralateral positions. Therefore, HRTF measurement with different wearing conditions can broaden the capability of HRTF customization whose technique utilizes a HRTF database.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.145-160
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• 1982

Wearing a clothes in human living is very rightful and reasonable things. And it's also the necessaries of living. So now, I want look around about origin of clothes from the prehistorical age, how they start and why they need to wear a clothes. As human culture is unknown origin, human clothes origin is also unknown origin, too. So many different people made unlike story about that, and it is very difficult to say correct birth of clothes. It must be reflection by a time, by a place, by a mankind, until this days, the history of human progress is $2,000,000{\sim}3,000,000$ years. And from after the "Old Adam" man understand what is shame and disgrace, so that made them cover of their private parts, also it is a motive of human clothes. Since after pass a long time, the earth has many changes as it were weather, and for take care of human body from cold, people start make clothes and it's a second object of wearing a clothes. And third object of wearing clothes is after opportunity of development human culture, people desire for an aesthetic sence and for full-fill that feeling they start make a beautiful clothes with accessories and it is motive and a purpose of a human start wear a clothes. So I can say, for origin birth of clothes is 1. Protect of human body. 1) be adapted for different weather and different circumstance. 2) take care self from outside injurg. 2. Decorate for aesthetic sence. 1) Theory of Amulets. 2) Theory of symbolism. 3) Theory of Sex attraction. 4) Aesthetic Theory. 5) Theory of chastity. 6) Multi-theory And material for clothes they made from natural wilds like leaves, fur, skin of wood. skin of fishes and feather etc. But after develop of human knowledge people invent fiber, and use a knitted goods and woven stuff also first of all. They start use those kind that they just cover of their private parts as a belt and astring with leaves and a beast skins. But until this days it's taken big development with human knowledge and most important influence of develop was weather. So modern clothes for present days, must care with. physicology, preservation of health, living activity, dressing, morals, and etiquette etc.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of details on the maternity clothes of one-piece type through visual evaluation which helps compensating pregnant women＇s body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, general linear models procedure and Duncan＇s multiple ranged test. The result are as follows : 1) The pregnant woman wearing the one-piece dress with notched collar, pleats and whole button looks longer in lower part of bodies, smaller in upper body, slimmer, have less appeared bust and abdomen, more balanced as a Whole than when wearing others. And also, it makes a pregnant woman be seen more refined and simple. 2) In case of a pregnant woman, a one-piece dress with notched collar, tuck and whole button makes her look longer in neck, narrower in shoulder, and more active than when wearing others. 3) With roll collar, pleats and whole button, it looks taller and more graceful than when wearing others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.91-100
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• 1987

To develop the comfortable pesticid-proof clothes, wearing trials for 7 types of existing pesticide-proof clothes were done measuring skin temperature, pulse rate, humidity and temperature of inside clothing and subjective feeling such as thermal, humid and comfort sensations at $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $75{\pm}5\%$ RH, 2.3 m/sec wind speed. (Experiment 1). On the base of above results, wearing trials of 6 types of new pesticide-proof clothes and 3 types of pesticide-proof clothes as control group were done with the same method as experiment 1. (Experiment 2). The results obtained were as follows 1. Heat stress was lower in newly designed pesticide-proof clothes with mesh running shirts. 2. For the body temperature regulation, it was confirmed that 6 types of new pesticide-proof clothes made of microporous fabric were better than the others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.597-605
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• 2010

This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.113-125
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• 2012

This study, as one on the neck design of seamless knitwears, set out to make experimental clothes applying various knitting methods to the hem of round neck, seek the knitting methods of finishing touches on the ending part of round neck to enhance function and aesthetic appreciation through measuring tensile strength and assessing wearing sensation, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to developing the design of seamless knitwears and mass production in the national knit industry. The ending part of neck of the seamless knitwear is not only the last stage in making knitwear but also affects the function and appearance of the clothes. The investigator, thus made six different pieces of experimental clothes according to the finishing methods of knitting on the neck, then measured tensile strength and put them to the test by a group of experts for the assessment of wearing sensation. The results were analyzed based on variance analysis(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results of measuring tensile strength, Experimental Clothes B received the highest evaluation, Experimental Clothes E the lowest. Also Experimental Clothes B was ranked the highest in almost every evaluation criteria, whereas Experimental Clothes E was ranked the lowest in the assessment of wearing sensation.