• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.775-781
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• 2012

There are various kinds of patterns on Li brocade textile of Hainan province in China. Those patterns are rich and colorful. Li (黎族) traditional brocade is an ancient exquisite craftsmanship and a world cultural heritage. This study analyzed and categorized Li brocade pattern of traditional Chinese textiles. Li (黎族) traditional brocade is an ancient exquisite craftsmanship. Based on the research of classifications of Li brocade patterns, expound the application of women's costume. The patterns of Li brocade textile of Hainan province analyzed through three levels: design transforming, meaning prolongation, and refining spirit. The patterns were explored the feasibility way to inherit the patterns of Li brocade for the modern fashion product design. The results showed that Li brocade textile pattern of Hainan province were images sourced from local environment and geographical terrain. They contained the nation's history memory, religion, hope for life of the Li nationality. Those patterns can be categorized as human figure pattern, animal pattern, geometric pattern, appliance or architecture pattern, and Chinese character pattern.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to review the Chinese traditional patterns and to apply one of them, the Peony Blossom pattern into modern textile designs for fashion For this purpose, first, the categories and symbolic meanings of the patterns existing in the Chinese traditional clothing from literature were reviewed. Second, the Peony Blossom patterns of Chinese traditional patterns from literature were reviewed and selected one of them, Third, authors applied the Peony Blossom pattern to creative textile design which would fit to appetite of people lived in modern society. The results were as follows: The patterns of Chinese traditional clothing could be classified as animal pattern, plant pattern, nature pattern, character pattern, lucky token pattern, geometric pattern and so on. All these patterns contained individual symbolic meaning, which varied according the different wearers. Moreover, it endows a peony blossom pattern of Chinese traditional patterns with modern style and purposes the textile design. The theme of the design is "Luxuriant Outing" with the concept of "Dream in Fantasy". The design target is the female born in the 1980's, that is, the target population between 20 and 30 years old. In addition, it is designed for the romantic one-piece. This paper perceives the national spirit revealed in the Chinese traditional patterns and designs with the combination of traditional culture and modernized technique of expression.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.48-68
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• 2024

In recent years, with the international spread of traditional Chinese culture, traditional auspicious patterns have been used idely in modern textile design. In particular, a bat pattern has the same pronunciation as 'fu' in Chinese. It symbolizes good luck and longevity. It has auspicious meanings such as happiness, prosperity, wealth, longevity, and good luck. This study aimed to explore how cultural elements could be utilized in modern textile design by incorporating the traditional Chinese bat pattern into scarf design. Through literature research and case analysis, we aimed to understand the historical background and design characteristics of the bat pattern and develop it into a textile design suitable for modern scarf design to promote modern reinterpretation of traditional culture and cultural integration. From a design perspective, the shape of the bat pattern was analyzed to derive five main shapes and characteristics (symmetry, verticality, repetition, totality, and relativity). Based on this, 10 patterns were created by combining them with popular styles of modern scarf patterns. In addition, five product designs were completed considering 23/24 Pantone trend colors, 24spring/summer fashion trend colors, and silk scarf pattern characteristics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.150-161
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• 2005

The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.545-558
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• 2021

This research analyzed the Chinese style design embodied in the collections of the new generation of fashion designers shown during the Shanghai Fashion Week to improve the understanding of Chinese style and the modernization of Chinese design. The research questions were 1) studying the development of the Chinese fashion industry chronologically and investing young designers' current situation, 2) investigating young designers' awareness of Chinese style and analyzing Chinese style design in collections. A literature and case study were conducted as the research method. The literature study focused on the books about the Chinese fashion industry and history, newspaper, articles, and so on. The case study was conducted among 63 Chinese style collections in 2016-2020 SFW by investigating fashion magazine reviews, articles, and so on. The findings are as follows: 1) Young Chinese fashion designers' awareness of Chinese style has three characteristics; the nonmaterial tendency from decreasing stereotyped images, combination of traditional culture and local youth culture, and commercialization with trends. 2) Chinese elements, including natural, character, and cultural elements were predominantly used in the concept, pattern, and shape. Nonmaterial characteristics were identified in concept, cultural combination characteristics in concept, shape, color, material, and pattern, and trend commercialization in shape, color, and pattern. In conclusion, Chinese young fashion designers had strong national consciousness and new awareness of Chinese style fashion in decreasing the stereotyped images of China. Thus, they used more varied expressions. Meanwhile, they faced difficulties in expressing nonmaterial Chinese elements by balancing them with Chinese style and globalization.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.986-1003
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• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.558-571
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• 2023

In recent years, young Chinese consumers have become more favorably inclined toward products relating to traditional culture. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a textile design that incorporates traditional Chinese patterns and cultural symbolism that will appeal to consumers from the MZ generation (millennials and Generation Z). Through a literature search for traditional Chinese patterns and symbols regarded as auspicious, our design concept and motives were established. We selected peony, lotus, and frog motifs as representative of a "wealth and eternal prosperity" design theme. In textile design work 1, we used hand drawing and watercolor techniques, color transformation with Adobe Photoshop, and colorway and end-use 3D simulation with TexPro. The 3D simulation work suggests that this textile pattern is suitable for women's outerwear, mufflers, and tote bags. Textile design work 2 conveyed the 'wealth and eternal prosperity' design theme and had a graceful mood that embodied the nobility of the lotus flower whilst also encompassing the symbolism of money and status. The end design is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese patterns and motifs. As such, it is hoped that it will satisfy the needs of young consumers for cultural values yet offer a unique new aesthetic distinct from existing textile designs. These qualities can be expected to enhance the competitive market value of textiles bearing this design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.880-897
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the 'Faux Chenille' textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.57-75
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to infer the shape and change as auspicious symbolic meaning and figures of a peony pattern. For this study. I analyzed the example of a peony pattern, which is traditional Chinese pattern appeared on a ceramic and textile. The results of this study are as following. First, a peony has particular title, such as 'the king of flowers' and 'the most beautiful woman in country and the smell in heaven' originated in a verse of a poet at Dang's Dynasty. It is reputed to be the best of all flowers, representing beauty, and a beauty. Second, the basic meaning of a peony pattern used as auspicious pattern is prosperity and it has various meanings of it's similar kind through several auspicious objects and combination. Also, it was used for the purpose of adequating the desire of man's blessing mentality. Third, four kinds of characteristics of a peony pattern are as following. 1) A peony pattern has similar shape with 'Bosanghwamoon', which was used as a pattern at formerly period of peony flowers. It was used as realistic shape gave vividness to the characteristic of peony on the shape of 'Bosanghwamoon'. 2) 8-petaled, unique leaves and veins were described in detail by vivid sketching shape of real peony flower. 3) Laying stress on the characteristics of peony flower, which is large and magnificent, several folds petals were described abundantly by exaggerated shape or a shape of big honeycomb. And unique leaves were described realistically on these. 4) It was also expressed peculiar characteristic of peony flower composed of several pieces by weakened design shape.