• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.87-99
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• 2006

For comprehending the duties of fashion designer, Sharon(1989) has suggested to look at the procedure how the goods are being produced. The purpose of this research is to identify the task of domestic fashion designer by comparing and analyzing one's work range and performing level in the fashion merchandising process according to the brand types which one is involved in. The preliminary research for the questionnaire was conducted with 5 chief designers of woman's apparel manufactures in Seoul. They were asked to judge if designer's tasks fit to their carry-out operations in the pre-fixed questionnaire which had been done based on preliminary researches and literatures related with fashion merchandising process. The contents of research questionnaire are 11 questions to understand the general characteristics of companies and the participated subjects, and 42 questions to understand the designers' operations. For the selection of NB, among 503 domestic female apparel brands that were in 'Korean Textile Fashion yearbook (2002-2003), the companies that were located in Seoul and possible for cooperation by researcher's personal relationship were selected. For DB, cooperation was requested for brands that were located in Seoul among the 137 brands that participates on Domestic Collection. For GB, 50 stores were selected at random or by personal relationship among 32 GB shops such as Freya Town, Doosan Tower, New Zone, and so on. Total 300 questionnaire distributed to the designers, 192 copies were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, descriptive statistics and ANOVA, Sceffe test were used using SPSS V. 11 1. The participated fashion designers operated 41 categories of suggested 42 categories in the fashion merchandising process. 2. The ranges and contents of tasks in the fashion merchandising process that fashion designers mainly carry-out are very different according to the brand types and showed much different level of task carry-out. Only in the categories of 'fashion trend information' and 'design ideation', all three brand type showed the highest level of task performance. And the design related tasks presented common higher level of performance than the other tasks in all brand types. In order to comprehend the operation of fashion designer, various approaching methods are required according to various apparel manufactures' characteristics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.90-102
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to identify the phases of the fashion merchandising process and the range of the fashion designer's work as well as performing degree at each stage according to the brand types of domestic women's apparel. The preliminary research was conducted with the chief designers of five woman's apparel manufactures located in Seoul and the questionnaires were collected from 192 fashion designers. They were measured by the five point Likert-type scales. For a data analysis, the Pearson's Correlation, ANOVA, Sheffe Test, MANOVA were used with SPSS V. 11.0. The results are as follows; 1. The steps which fashion designers of domestic apparel brand take in fashion merchandising process have been identified in 7 stages- Environment Information, Target Market Planning, Design Planning, Design Development, Price Settlement, Presentation & Line Release, Production. 2. The task achievement level of fashion designers in fashion merchandising process differs in brand types as well as in fashion merchandising stages. In NB, the designer's work was conducted in order of Design Planning(M=4.58)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=4.31)$\to$ Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Target Market Planning(M=3.13). In DB, in order of Price Settlement (M=4.80)$\to$Production(M=4.33)$\to$Design Development(M=4.27)$\to$Design Planning(M=3.77)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=3.20)$\to$Environment Information (M2.70). In GB, in order of Production(M=4.38)$\to$Design Planning(M=4.22)$\to$Price Settlement(M4.16)$\to$Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Merchandising Target Market (M=3.72)$\to$Design Development(M=3.65). 3. Considering the other factors such as sales, the amount of owning shops, item amounts that are related to the company size, this study shows that only the brand type affects designer's task achievement.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.19-29
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권10호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제17권12호
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• pp.518-531
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• 2016

본 연구는 현대교회 건축 디자인에 많은 영향을 끼친 도미니크 수도회 신부 마리 알랭 쿠튀리에(Marie Alain Couturie)가 주창한 성미술(L'Art Sacre) 운동의 추진과정과 건축적 특성을 고찰하는데 목적이 있다. 이를 위해 성미술 운동의 전개과정을 분석한 후, 이를 토대로 성미술 운동 속에 내재해 있는 건축적 담론, 특히 쿠튀리에가 주창한 건축개념의 특성이 무엇인가를 분석하고자 하였다. 1차적으로 1936년부터 1954년 사이에 성미술 운동의 기관지 라르 사크레지에 기고 된 쿠튀리에의 글 속에 나타난 언설을 분석하고, 2차적으로 성미술 건축 프로젝트의 현지답사를 통해 성미술 운동의 실체를 파악하였다. 성미술 운동의 대표적인 건축물인 아시성당과 로사리오성당, 롱샹교회, 라투렛수도원, 로스코채플 등 5개의 프로젝트를 분석대상으로 하였다. 본 연구의 결과 쿠튀리에의 건축개념의 특성은 '시적'(Poetic) 분위기의 창출에 기초하고 있음을 파악할 수 있었으며, 재료의 즉물성과 순수함은 모더니즘기의 추상적 사유와 연결되어 있음을 규명할 수 있었다. 쿠튀리에 신부는 르 코르뷔지에를 성미술 운동을 구현할 수 있는 가장 적합한 건축가로 인식하였으며, 이러한 사유는 롱샹 성당과 라투렛 수도원을 탄생시키는 직접적 동인이 되었음을 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구에서는 20세기 중반 교회건축의 혁신을 일으켰던 성미술 운동의 전개과정과 쿠튀리에 신부가 펼친 건축개념의 분석을 통해 현대교회건축의 공간이미지 구성과 디자인에 지침과 교훈이 될 것으로 사료된다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.