• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.359-370
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to test the performance of the recommended summer dressing for office man through the analysis of skin temperature changes by air-conditioning temperature. We tested two clothing combinations; formal wear with necktie and casual shirts without necktie as for Cool mapsi. 4 male subjects sat to stabilize for thirty minutes after entering artificial-climate chamber with both temperature of $25^{\circ}C$, $27^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. And during 60 minute experiments of simulating office work, the subjective feelings including thermal, humidity and comfort sensation, skin temperature, clothing humidity and sweat amount were measured at the equal intervals. The result is that formal wear of $25^{\circ}C$ and Cool mapsi of $27^{\circ}C$ show good values such as low skin temperature, low clothing humidity and neutral thermal sensation. And Cool mapsi of $25^{\circ}C$ shows the risk of low rectal temperature for long and static energy level of office work. Formal wear of $27^{\circ}C$ shows high values of mean skin temperature, clothing humidity and thermal sensation. Second experiment was to find the ambient temperature when the subject wearing formal wear shows the skin temperature corresponding to which he shows on Cool mapsi of $27^{\circ}C$. The air-conditioning temperature on wearing formal wear has to be $2^{\circ}C$ lower to produce the corresponding skin temperature to which shows on wearing Cool mapsi of $27^{\circ}C$. Therefore it is possible to increase room temperature to $27^{\circ}C$, when wear Cool mapsi for summer office, for skin temperature and thermal sensation are produced the same.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.8
• /
• pp.29-39
• /
• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1649-1660
• /
• 2006

IIn the United States, professional dress codes for working women have changed over time since the 1970s. Considering the changes, from conservative and traditional business uniforms in the 1970s, business casual in the late 1980s through 1990s, and the current revival of tailored business suits, this study investigated working women's business jacket practices and their association with personal, psycho-social, and physical characteristics. Working women's job satisfaction and corporate culture were also examined in relation to business jacket practices. Research data were collected by implementing mail surveys to 1,500 randomly selected working women in the United States. Of the 1,500 distributed questionnaires, a total of 312 were returned, of which 265 were deemed usable, yielding a 20.8% response rate. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, such as frequency, percentage distribution, mean scores, standard deviations, and Canonical Correlation were tabulated. The respondents ranged in age from 22 to 65. The mean age of the respondents was 44 years(SD=9.63). Most respondents were married(77.4%), working full-time(81.4%), career-oriented (77.2%), Caucasian(89.8%), had at least one child(78.9%), and had a professional job(75.9%). Working women's age, number of children, self-confidence in dressing, perceived importance of clothing, body frame size, and visibility to superiors and public were positively associated with business jacket practices, while age of first child, family size, dress size, and job satisfaction were negatively associated with business jacket practices.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2007

In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.16-28
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the content and changes of modern Korean men's wear advertisement from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazines and pictorials. Research problems were as follows.; First, analyze the types and their units of measurement in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Second, examine the differences of quantitative change in men's fashion advertisements according to each period. The total 857 advertisements were selected from Shin Dong-A, Joongang Magazine, and Bokjangwolbo from 1972 to 1998. For analyze the result, frequency analysis and $x^2$-test were used. Results were as follows. First, through the review of literatures and pre-tests, 6 units of measurement were identified. They were product type(formal wear, casual wear, sports wear, dress shirts, accessory, inner wear, fabric and the others), brand type(national brand, licensed brand, imported brand, others), appeal type(image, product, others), representation type(photograph, illustration, others), medium type(man, product, others), and color type of advertisement(black & white picture, color picture). Second, for the types of advertisements, formal wear, national brand, image appeal, figure medium, photograph for presentation and color picture are the most frequently shown in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Third, for product, more accessory advertisements were found than the clothing in the 60s and the 70s, and casual wear advertisements in the 80s and formal wear advertisements in the 90s were dominated. National brand type was dominant through all four period. Product appeal type in the 60s and the 70s and image appeal type in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. For medium, product type in the 60s and the 70s and figure type in the 80s and the 90s were dominated. Black & white picture in the 60s and the 70s and color picture in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. Lastly, photograph was the most frequently used for presentation type through all periods.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.69-90
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.7 s.98
• /
• pp.62-75
• /
• 2005

This study is focused on main performers' stage costumes in the 'Swan Lake', a masterpiece of classical ballet, which Is newly represented by Matthew Bourne, a choreographer. The objectives of the study is to help understand a trend of costume in modern public performance and art. First, this paper is attempted to describe the concept and the elements of ballet costume, secondly, to consider the performance generally, and finally to analyze main performers stage costumes. This study was performed by two processes; The first was to visit theaters to view the performances in person: the classical ballet by the Bolshoi Theater Ballet, the performance by Korea national ballet academy and the Matthew Bonne's modernly redefined ballet. The second was to review the regarding literatures and DVD. There are two apparent characteristics of main performers' stage costumes in modern-style ballet compared with classic-style ballet. First, there is an approach to gender identity; the character of swan with the classic tutu that has been the culmination of femininity in the classic-style ballet, used to be represented in an established idea on ballet costume, is now substituted by a creative idea, male ballerina and trouser-style ballet costume. Second, there is an approach to breaking the convention on the purpose of emphasizing popularity arousing real sympathy and art value. Also, modern-style ballet introduces bare body and ffot rather than tutu and toe-shoes, and adapts items from casual outfit fitted in earh performer's character with a present-day life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.43-59
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study was to compare knitwear design preferences and purchase behaviors of university students by sex. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Gongju provinces. The research method was a survey and measurement instruments were 16 stimuli which were manipulated of knitwear shape and self-administrated questionnaire (knitwear design preference items, knitwear favorite image items, purchase behavior items and subject' demographic attributions). Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, t-test, Cronbach' ${\alpha}$ using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, as for pullover designs according to pullover shape factors, male preferred classic design with normal round neck, set-in sleeves and normal length, whereas female preferred various designs with normal round, normal V or deep V neck, set-in sleeves and normal or long length. Second, there was significant difference by sex in knitwear patterns and materials. Male preferred geometric patterns and 100% cotton, whereas female preferred natural patterns and blended cotton. Third, 4 factors were emerged on knitwear favorite images(casual image, modem classic image, active image and characteristic image). Especially, there was significant difference by sex in active image. Male preferred active image, whereas female did not. Fourth, as for knitwear purchases, male considered fitting as important purchase criteria, whereas female considered design or style. Male used department stores for purchasing, whereas female used Bosejeom for independent fashion. Male preferred high quality knitwear to female.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.143-155
• /
• 2013

The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.7
• /
• pp.165-179
• /
• 2000

This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.