• Archives of design research
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• v.19 no.6 s.68
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• pp.9-14
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• 2006

There are many paintings describing butterfly in a folk story or old story but the word of Nabby is showed up because korea culture is subject to a Chinese character culture area. the word of Nabby is originated from flying features of nabby. It was expressed to an Hoju(胡蝶:swallowtail) or Hwangjub(黃蝶:yellow butterfly) in old book, Nabby or Naboi in Dusiunhae(杜詩諺解) issued in 1481, Naboi in Hunmonjahoe(訓夢字會) issued in 1527 and Nami in Simongunhaemungmyung(時夢諺解物名) issued in Sookjong dynasty(1675$\sim$1720). After that it was called Nabeui or Nabby and Nabby became the standard language but it is still called Nabbo or Nabbe in some provinces. The butterfly have been called as jewelry spread out through the world and people have been attracted by its meaning (love, pleasure, luck, long life and eternity) and its beautiful figure so that they have collected poems and paintings about it to appreciate its beauty or have made craft works and personal ornaments of it. This research is to analyze the shape and color of the using the application method of the nubi, which is used as expression method in this research, is suitable to express the beauty of butterfly's shape and the nerve of its wings and the basic material, which is light and have good drape, was used to easily express the rhythmical movement of butterfly's flapping. And thus, this research is to present that the above expression method is suitable to express the beautiful expression of butterfly's image and have unlimited potential energy for developing designs. Results showed that the soft outline of butterfly's wings can coincide with the linear shape of human body. It was also found that the characteristics of nubi method could be diversified as material expression method and the Haute Couture luxurious work could be developed by applying the mixed nubi method to costumes.

• Archives of design research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.75-90
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• 2011

At the beginning of the Chos$\breve{o}$n dynasty, punch'$\breve{o}$ng began as a simplified form of inlaid celadon, and in the two following centuries it developed into a popular folk craft in various styles and expressive decorations; overtime, it was increasingly made to resemble whiteware, and its production stopped after the Japanese invasion of Korea. In the present study, the body and glaze compositions of punch'$\breve{o}$ng were examined and compared with those of celadon and whiteware, whose compositions have previously been compared with those of Chinese ceramics. Here, the analyzed shards were organized into 28 groups based on their production sites and archaeological characteristics. For each group, the body and glaze compositions of several shards(usually three to five) were obtained, averaged, and compared with those of the other groups. These comparisons showed that the majority of the punch'$\breve{o}$ng bodies were formed, like those of celadon and whiteware, with mica-quartz porcelain stone, which was commonly used in Yuezhou, Jingdezhen, and other southern Chinese kilns. The glazes consisted of clay materials and flux components made from various proportions of wood ash, burnt limestone (glaze ash) and crushed limestone. Overall, the punch'$\breve{o}$ng glazes resembled the Kory$\breve{o}$ celadon and Kory$\breve{o}$ whiteware glazes more closely than the Chos$\breve{o}$n white wareglazes. However, the $TiO_2$ levels found in the tested punch'$\breve{o}$ng were low, similar to those of Chos$\breve{o}$n whiteware; this indicated that glaze stone was used as the clay component of the punch'$\breve{o}$ng glazes, as was the case for Chos$\breve{o}$n whiteware. This study of the material characteristics of punch'$\breve{o}$ng may be used as a comparative framework for analyzing ceramic shards discovered at current and future excavations within Korea.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2009

Jeollabuk-do is bounded by the sea, and Mahan Baekje culture have been established around a wide plain. Also, in southeastern, it was closed by Gaya kingdom where iron culture was prosperous at that time, a variety of the handles of swords with round pommel is excavated at present. The handles of swords with round pommel is the best amount of excavated objects among the swords with round pommel and producted object for the time. It supposes them to become the foundation of making the decorated swords with round pommel. But, the handles of swords with round pommel that don't have a pattern in handle is indifferent to study because the production method is simple in spite of that the value of archaeological data is sufficient. Therefore, in this study, it examined changed production techniques with the change of times concerning the handles of swords with round pommel of Mahan Baekje Gaya period(before 6C) excavated from Jeollabukdo through using X-rays in order to clarify a variety of production techniques of the handles of swords with round pommel correctly in accordance with a period of production and excavated place. As a result, identified production techniques using X-rays of the handles of swords with round pommel excavated around remains of Mahan Baekje Gaya period shows that production progress improved in order of all-in-one shape, hammer welding shape of the handle of round pommel, and two in body formation in accordance with age. Especially, in two in body shape, it products the handle of round pommel separately, after that it welds the handle of swords and then links the sword blade like a riveting or bottleneck and so on. Despite of improved hammer welding technique, the reason why it didn't utilize is it regards as inlay or gilt will be damaged. And it is judged by using riveting or bottleneck. Also, it appears to techniques of metal craft such as decoration of the handle, decoration of point of sword, inlay, and silver-plating in the period of appearing two in body shape. As clarifying correctly, it provides fundamental database of scientific research about a study of production techniques of handle of swords with round pommel.

• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.221-230
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• 2004

Design textbooks for general education bring our attention to the education of design as a part of whole education. In this vein, this thesis tried to analyze and discuss on the current status of design education contents included in the 7th educational curriculum of the Art & Life. This study had a historical review of the contents of arts education as well as a review of theoretical contents in art education. Also this thesis analyzed five types of Art & Life text books currently used at high schools with weight given to the design and to the status of pictorial coverage in the text books. Finally, the thesis presented problems of design education through a comparative analysis of high school arts education and design education. Through the analysis, inequality of design contents in education was reported. It was clearly attributable to the backgrounds of text book writers. For example, authors with graphic design backgrounds tended to lack product and environment design concepts, while hand craft section of text books all showed a biased contents towards traditional Korean arts. In the analysis of pictorial coverage, similar to the composition of academic contents, coverage was concentrated in the graphic design areas; inequality in quantity of pictures found with a ratio of 1 to 4. In terms of areas of arts, design contents in text books were concentrated only in arts creation chapters among the 3 major areas of arts appreciation, understanding, and creation. Design education is attained in an atmosphere of creativity and the provision of ample teaching material. It is because diverse contents will generate the development of arts. When compared to design education curriculum of U.S. and Japan, these creativity put their focus of design education in the understanding and emotional contacts, so that every application is easily attained. In terms of expression learning, creativity and diversity of material are emphasized. From Kindergarten to middle, and high school periods, apparently the care contents of deign is emphasized. A textbook in the 7th education curriculum is one of the sources for education. In designing text books, learning process should be emphasized following subjects and natures of arts so that creativity can be achieved. Therefore, a systematic approach for design research and educational development for material would be needed in textbook design.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.14-25
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• 2016

This study aims to investigate what flowering plant Jeongjo loved, the attitudes and the reasons, and their implications. The study method was to investigate the contents and meaning in the historical records and to describe their interpretation. Jeongjo's life was consistent with very abstinent life style. His food, clothing and shelter were simple, and he did not show the interests in music, various arts and craft, women, and so on. He did not even show his interest in the flowers and plants of fairyland, beautiful flowers and plants. Jeongjo knew various kinds of flowers, and he was proficient in artistic expressions such as literature or painting with flower material. Due to this kind of attitude, there were few cases to demonstrate his taste on the specific flowering plant. The only one that Jeongjo revealed as his favorite flower was the pomegranate. However, the pomegranate was not the simple flowering plant as the subject of enjoying to Jeongjo. The pomegranate has the meaning of indicator plant to indicate the season of rice farming. Therefore, he made it to be the intermediary to indicate the farming season, which counted a few. Besides, Jeongjo who was threatened by the trials of assassination to him in his early throne period utilized 5,600 pomegranate flowerpots as the barricade of his shelter by arraying them with the type of stone piles in $B{\bar{a}}zh{\grave{e}}nt{\acute{u}}$(八陣圖). The use of Jeongjo's pomegranate flowerpots was not related to the visual utilization like ornament at all, which was very unique case. From multiple records, it was found that the pomegranate was the flower to be with Jeongjo in his period of reign. It is remarkable that the reason why Jeongjo kept pomegranate for a long time like this had the difference from enjoying practice on the ordinary flowering plant. This study has the limitation to be conducted depending on the Korean translated data. Further studies are required according to the translation performance of new historical records.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.27-31
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• 1967

The bamboo is a plant whose culm grows straight up. This growing characteristics has been widely utilized in industry and craft. But the developments of handcraft making and horticultural techniques in recent years become to demand the bent bamboo culms. This study has been conducted at the experimental grove located at Hyunnae Ri, Okkye Myun, Myungju Gun, Kangwon Do since 1960. Although it has been known that the secret for which bamboo shoots complet growth within 40 odd days lies in their rhizomes, this writer felt the bamboo culm sheath might be another factor in addition. Hence some were stripped of sheath in this bending study as the following: 1. Time of sheath stripping. 2. Direction of sheath stripped for arbitrary bending. 3. Accuracy of bending following the size (growth) of bamboo shoots. The following results were obtained: 1. Bamboo shoots begin to appear in April. But the bamboo shot up in June showed the best bending result with 68% of bending efficiency. 2. Bending of the culm was facilitated by stripping off the sheath located on the side of the direction toward which bending was desired. By doing this, the culm could be bent as much as 90 degrees. But the culm totally stripped of sheath could be bent in any direction. 3. In order to determine the accuracy of bending of bamboo shoots growing, sheath were stripped off the shoots of which height ranged from 10 centimeter to 150 centimeters. The shoots with height of 110 centimeters showed the best result with 90%.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.595-604
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• 2018

In this study, in a bid to develop natural bioadhesives for paper craft, the hanji industry, and preserving cultural assets, complex polysaccharides were extracted from brown and red algae and used as an ingredient in adhesives. Brown algae include sea trumpet, kelp, sea oak, and sea mustard, whereas red algae include Pachymeniopsis elliptica agar-agar weed, Gloiopeltis tenax, and hunori. The polysaccharides were extracted after transforming them from non-aqueous Ca complexes contained in each of the brown and red algae into water-soluble polysaccharides containing alkali metals with a solubility level of 1. and extracted Subsequently, only the polysaccharides were extracted using alcohol precipitation. The adhesion tensile strengths of kelp, a brown algae, and Pachymeniopsis elliptica, a red algae, were 21.58 and 32.99 kgf, respectively. They thus demonstrated better adhesion than that of solid glue products such as water plants (18.45 kgf) and glue sticks (20.45 kgf). The extraction yield of these polysaccharides is supposed to be determined according to their extracted environments; however, no difference in adhesion strength was seen. Further, it was found that the shapes of polysaccharides were determined by their growing environment instead of extraction environment. Use of multi-step alcohol precipitation method during extraction enabled the removal of the constituents except protein and other polysaccharides, thereby demonstrating a stable outcome without cultivation of mold. Furthermore, there was no occurrence of mold even after production of the adhesives by the simple solution method, which demonstrates the adhesive's potential as an environment-friendly adhesive material.