• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제12권9호
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

본 연구는 아직 잘 알려지지 않은 고려말 조선초의 상류층 여성복식을 고증하여 구체관절인형의상 세트를 시험제작하고 한국 문화상품의 아름다움을 알리기 위한 것이다. 고려말 조선초의 상류층 여성복식은 풍성한 실루엣, 원과 명 복식과의 융합, 옛 고려풍의 부활, 발달한 모시 직조기술, 불교문화 복식이라는 특성을 가진다. 13-14C의 문헌과 유물과 회화를 통한 연구자의 고증과 패턴제작 과정을 거쳐 총 8점의 아이템이 외주제작되었다. 각 아이템은 세트로 구성되었으나 소비자가 단품으로 선택할 수 있으며 다양한 조합이 가능하다. 인체와 특성이 다른 구체관절인형의 바디로 인해 부분적으로 다아트와 작은 고름이 첨가되고 강직한 직물이 사용되었다. 이후로는 기성품 생산을 위한 업체 시스템 개발 연구가 필요하다.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.184-199
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• 2008

This thesis aims to examine the formation, and the religious meaning and symbolism of Beob-Lak, which is attached to the preacher's clothing as a full dress of Won-Buddhism, which, as a new religion, was originated in Korea's historical foundation in 1916. In addition, it tries to provide the basic data for the study on Korean religious costume by examining Beob-Lak in the context of social atmosphere of Korea, which has accepted various religions. As a result, I found that Beob-Lak was originated from the different colored lines of the early Japanese Buddhist religious costume and it employed rochza as an independent component, but that the present protocol of Beob-Lak was completed by the first Jongbeobsa Jeongsan Jongsa in the late 1950s and all the religious workers have put it on with the religious costume in great worships since the early 1980s. Beob-Lak of Won-Buddhism, which employs Ilwonsang Beobsinbul as the symbol of its religious doctrine, symbolizes the succession of Beob and represents the will to repay the teacher's favors to hand down the great truth. At the center, Ilwonsan(one round shape) is the symbol of the innate place for everything in the universe, and its yellow color symbolizes the highest nobleness. I expect to see following researches which deal with the costume of Won-Buddhism from various views on the basis of this study on the formation and development of Beob-Lak, which is the symbol of formal full dress of Won-Buddhism as Korea-style new religion created over 90 years ago.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.193-199
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• 1995

The purpose of this research was to study the origins and the meanings of the Kokal (고깔). Comparative linguistic analytical approaches were employed to trace the development of the word, the Kokal(고깔). Results of this study revealed that the kotkal(곳갈, 곧갈) was a general term referring to a variety of head coverings in eh period of Choson Dynasty. This broad meanings of the Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) of the Chosun Dynasty period has been changed to a narrow sense meanings a conical cap made of folds of the material, mainly used by some of the Buddhist monks in modern Korean. Also, the phonetic value of the Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) of the Choson Dynasty period changed to the Kokal(고깔) in modern Korean. A variety of words for the Kokal(고깔) was found in the different languages such as Latin, English, French, Turkish, German, Mongolian, and Chinese. The examination and analysis of this study indicated that the origin of the Korean word Kotkal(곳갈,곧갈) or Kokal(고깔) and the meanings of it were derived from LL. Cuculla(monk's cowl)

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.97-107
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• 1998

This is a studying on Chinese round neckline. Chinese round neckline is originate from Kucha and Bei-Wei. After round neckling was flown into Chinese, it had been worn in all classes including Emperor as well as common people. Women-talents and court ladis-likes to wear it too, especially Tang Dynasty. This study is describe processes of changes and characters of Chinese. The first inflow time of round neckline into China was assumed in Bei-Wei. In Bei-Chi, it changed right lapel and it fastened by a button. In Chinese each dynasty, Round neckline had been worn in Emperor, common people talents and a part of court ladies.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.125-155
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• 1995

This research has been studied the influence of Song Dynasty mode upon clothes and ornaments of Korea Dynasty by Seo Gung's (徐競) 『SunWhaBongSa KoryoDoKyung』(宣和奉使高麗圖經) and in Korea Dynasty period, by Buddhist picture. The clothing of the Song Dynasty was quite reserved and conservative, fewer variations and quiter colours thus conveying a feeling of simplicity and naturalness. Their clothings were no more luxurious than the clothing of Dang Dynasty. We had read that when Seo Gung visited Korea for month, and then it is in Emperor Injong's reign(A.D. 1123). Korea women's clothes and ornaments were followed by Song dynasty's clothing pattern as much as the took notice of Korea women's clothing. Korea DoKyung showed Song women's clothing that whal clothing that whal clothing (華衣), Yuansam(圖經) were Korea women's a ceremonial dress and so, Koryo women's clothing were very influenced by Song's mode. The conclusion of the research are as follows found out that Korea women's a ceremonial dresses were similar to Song's.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.32-46
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• 2015

Treasures patterns are simplified designs of vessels used in everyday life, which were symbols of luck. Treasures patterns on textiles are largely assorted into four groups: eight auspicious patterns of Buddhism, eight immortal patterns of Taoism, seven treasures patterns of King Chakravarti in the Buddhist Scriptures and normal treasures patterns. Among them normal treasures patterns are most commonly used. Records in the Joseon documents show these patterns as being composed of seven treasures patterns or eight treasures patterns. But observation of the actual relics show that these patterns ranged from four to ten patterns. Korean traditional textiles treasures patterns began to appear in Korea on the relics of the last of Goryeo period. They were used as sub-patterns among main patterns of dynamically rising cloud patterns with five heads. Treasures patterns in the early Joseon period were commonly used as sub-patterns, and cloud and treasures pattern were prime examples of this. In the 16th century, lotus vine pattern, small flower vine pattern, or small flower pattern were often used as main patterns and treasures patterns were regularly used as sub-patterns. The robe of the Great Monk of Seo San was unique, in that both main and sub patterns consisted of the treasures patterns. From the 17th century, treasures patterns began to be used as main patterns. For example, a relic with eight alternatively arranged treasures patterns were found. Though there were still some cases where the patterns were used as sub-patterns, they begin to appear bigger than the previous period and became similar to main patterns in size. In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were various cases where treasures patterns were combined with flowers, fruits, animals, and letter patterns and used as main patterns. And there are many different methods of representing and developing the patterns.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.52-63
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• 2010

The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.37-49
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• 2010

The Samguk-yusa(三國遺事) is one of the two classics of Korean ancient history together with the Samguk-sagi(三國史記); however there has not been any positive attempt to analyse clothing culture centering on the Samguk-yusa until now. Thereupon, this study aims to find the records related to fabrics, color and fashion appearing in the Samguk-yusa, and to analyse the fashion culture of the three kingdoms projected in the Samguk-yusa, referring to the Samguk-sagi and ancient Chinese reference books. According to the records in the book, the fabrics used for clothing of those days included Jikgeum-wimun(織錦爲紋), Geum(錦), Chaebaek(彩帛), Osaek-geumchae(五色錦彩), Geumbaek(錦帛), Geumsam(錦衫), Ma(麻), Neung(綾), Geum-su-neung-ra(錦繡綾羅), Poh(布), Daecho, Bira-geumjeom(緋羅金點), Gyeon(絹). Japchoe(雜綵), Robtyeom(羅緋染). Chimilpoh(緻密布), Gi(綺) and Whan(紈), and they had colors such as brown black(緇), black(黑), purple(紫), yellow(黃), blue(碧), clear white(素), white(白), five colors(五色). There is substantial amoung of report on Buddhism, and the terms used for Buddhist clothing included Beobeui(法衣), Nabeui(衲衣), Bangpoh(方袍), Gasa(袈裟) and Yueui(由衣). It is also ascertained that Gasa had a variety of Bira-geumjeom-gasa(緋羅點袈裟), Manap-gasa(摩納袈裟) and Geumra-gasa(金羅袈裟).