• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.25-35
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• 1998

This thesis is a study of Kas ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kas ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of T -chi and Yin-yang and Wu-shing as a frame-work of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kas ya mean a name of peculiar color. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kas ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly. they established 'non-primary color' as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called discolored color' as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kas ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary color. That is say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to 'profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness' as the source of them. Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kas ya symbolizes 'profound color' as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetic's mind as well as means don't attach to the shaped materials'. Fourthly, discoloring means to return 'color'. namely 'all kinds of shaped material' to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to reture to the empty. nya. nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors. R pa, by one time Yin and the other time Yang'. R pa, color is a metaplasia of nya and nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means R pa is nya, R pa is nya at the same time and Because this is another expression of Dharma the original meaning of Kas ya symbolize true robes. Consequently, Kas ya means truth and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.677-688
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to find out the symbolism of religious costume which has showed the religious belief system through costume practice and culture. Indian Religious costume each has its own mark was investigated in this study. In India, religion is a way of life. It is an integral part of the entire Indian tradition. The results were as follows; India's several main religions are Hinduism(About 80% of population) , Islam (About 11% of population) , Sikhism(less than 2% of population) , Jainism(less than 1% of population) , Buddhism(less than 1% of population) and Christianity(About 3% of population but excluding here) Religious faith system which symbolized Godhood, spiritualty, ascetics, restraint, chastity, sacred and dignity gave a certain shape to each color, ornaments, dressing and marking of religion costume. In connection with religion costumes, there were Hindu's Tika, sacred ash, long hair, knot and holy band (Yajnopavita) , Buddhist's kayysa and tonsures, Jams' no covering, Muslim's chador and skullcap, Sikh's turban (with no cutting hair) , comb, steel bracelet, drawers, sword or dagger. The characteristics, head especially of thebody and white in the colors were made much account for India religion costume. Traditional costume seems to be worn at the present times in India. But apparently these costume associated with religion costume because of Hindu more than 80% of population.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.154-159
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• 2010

Various decorative patterns and sculptures found in antique architectures like palace architecture and temple architecture are not only valuable assets of our culture but have religious meaning at the same time and show aesthetic aspiration and desire of Korean people. In this study, potential application of patterns in textile industry is suggested based on the reconstructed and patternized geometric patterns of window grids, a decorative element in architecture, and stair and stair somaetdol, a architectural element in Buddhist temples, using Photoshop and Illustrator program of Adobe INC AND Tex-pro program of Youngwoo CNI INC. All around the world today, efforts to reinterpret unique and antique architectures and cultural assets in a modern way has been increasing. Decorative patterns displayed in Buddhist temple architectures which are antique Korean architectures have excellent geometric aesthetic value. And the development potential of patternizing these elements into modern designs is high. Therefore, it is thought to be possible to develop high value-added fabric and to develop various fashion items including apparel and interior decoration based on modern reinterpretation of patterns of window grid and decorative elements of stairs and stair somaetol that are part of our antique architectures.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.151-165
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• 2020

In this study, the pattern of texture was developed by applying the pattern shown in the Amita Yeoraebul and the Avalokitesvara with symbolism suitable for children's clothing. In addition, the design and the manufacturing of a children's wearable Hanbok were attempted, and the results are as follows: Amitha Yeoraebul is a Buddha who oversees paradise in Buddhism, and Avalokitesvara controls both paradise and the real world and provides mercy. Applying the various patterns in the Buddhist paintings, four daily hanboks for children were produced using patterns featuring symbolic the meanings of large round original patterns chrysanthemums, turtles, and lotus patterns. The lotus symbol represents love, nobility, and wealth, while the turtle symbol represents longevity, the chrysanthemum pattern symbolizes auspiciousness, and the large round original pattern means a constant continuation. To maintain the traditional hanbok form but allow convenient wear it in daily life, it is made in the jeogori + shorts, vest + long pants, and one-piece + jacket style. Currently, the daily dress of Hanbok and the modernization of traditional Korean clothes are being promoted. At this point, the study developed Hanbok fashion products that contain symbolic stories suitable for children are trying to maintain the image of traditional culture as much as possible.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.95-112
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• 2006

This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.177-195
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• 1999

In this study, I tried to find out the diffusion and the receptive process of new culture with examining the costume of Ksitigrbha Bodhisattva Buddist drawings, which were drawn by our people in the Koryo dynasty. I classified each part of the costume of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas and found out overall characteristics and analyzed their meaning. The results are as follows ; First, because there were several ‘du-gun’ of peculiar types, Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas were supposed to have ‘du-gun’ before Buddhism was diffused throughout China through the West. The type of ‘du-gun’ was deveoloed more and more through the West and appeared as the type of ‘du-gun’ of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas in ‘Ji-Jang Do’ in the Koryo dynasty. And the pecuilar type of du-gun was supposed to have been under the influence of the costume of Taoism in those days. Second, I think that the Buddhist defication of the costume in Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas was a phenomenon in the process that belief in Ksitigarbha was united with popular belief and widely diffused and became to have its important meaning of its own. Third, the feminine tendency of the costume in Ksitigarbha meaning of the early goddess remained partly in the costume even though Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva was god in India. Fourth, Several found shape designs are supposed to be affected by the diplomatic relationship with the West. As mentioned above the costume ‘Ji-Jang Do’ in the Koryo dynasty was affected by china\`s, world-wide in that ga-sa was Gandira style based on Hellenistic art. Therefore, the reception if new culture was selective on the basis of the country\`s need and this new culture was changed into something peculiar to affect other countries simultaneously with reception.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

As the result of the study of this thesis, the costume of Palhae and Shilla shows the many similarity. 1. The two centuries introduced the system of four-colored official uniform. This official uniforms are BokDoo(복두), DanLyung(團領) and Dae(帶). BanLyung of Palhae are GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and that of Shilla are GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대) Similarly BokDoo shows the long Gak(脚) in back. 2. Yu(유) and Ko(袴), the native costumes have worn even after the period of the three countries. 3. The two countries wore DanLyung. A man In Palhae wore GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and a man in Shilla wore GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대). 4. A woman in Palhae wore SangEui(上衣), Sang(裳), JikLyung(直領) one by one. And over Sang wrapped PoBaekDae(布帛帶) and covered the shoulder by UnGyun(雲肩). A woman in Shilla wore SangEui, Sang, PoBaekDea one by one and covered the shoulder by Pyo(표). 5. The two countries put on Rib(笠) and similary shoes. Rib insists of Moche(帽體), ChaYang(次養) and can classify the estate by decoration. A man wore Wha(靴), Li(履) and a woman wore KoDooLi(高頭履). This similarity is the result by the cultural interchange between Palhae and Shilla. There are the five reasons. Interchange by the envoy's visit. Interchange through Shillado(新羅道), Interchange in T'ang Dynasty, Interchange in Japan, Interchange of Buddhist culture. By the cultural interchange between Palhae(渤海) and Shilla(新羅), the shape of costume is similary. The meaning of this similarity of costume equals to the similarity of culture. We will approval Palhae is the co-subject of Korean history with Shilla and will name as "The period of NamBukKuk(南北國時代)" from the late 7th century to the early 10th century in the academy of the history of Korean Costume.